5.0 UPR vs RX Catch Can Effectiveness Test
#201
Correct. lol
Ok. I guess my confusion is this- there is oil collecting on the outlet side whether or not there is mesh present, right? You're saying the presence of the outlet mesh causes more pull-through because the mesh collects oil, but let's say the mesh is removed from that area. The oil is still collecting on the outlet walls, isn't it? Wouldn't that oil get pulled through anyway?
Ok. I guess my confusion is this- there is oil collecting on the outlet side whether or not there is mesh present, right? You're saying the presence of the outlet mesh causes more pull-through because the mesh collects oil, but let's say the mesh is removed from that area. The oil is still collecting on the outlet walls, isn't it? Wouldn't that oil get pulled through anyway?
Some will, but this is a good mod to make as it does help. The goal is to get as much as possible to fall to the bottom. A rule of thumb on the Bernoulli effect is with the rate of flow through the average PCV system (from 450-650 CFM) and the velocity through any can, is to have the cans interior capacity close to 1 qt to allow the speed of the flow through to slow enough to prevent pull through, and with the outlet location it must be app 4" from any droplets falling to avoid pull through. So good move on UPR's part.
This thread fills up quick! And it's really to much to read.
I bought my UPR used for a great price, so far I like it. I recently relocated it under the truck so it would stay cooler cause under good it got so hot I couldn't unscrew the "bowl" without gloves. Anyways while reading this tread I say they have a diffuser so I bought it. Now I'm reading this thread and some say to take the mesh out of the exit. UPR do you suggest this?
My theory would be take out the inlet so that the oil from the inlet isn't trapped/stored near the top. It falls straight to the button. And keeping the mesh on the exit would filter any oil if any before getting into the intake.
Can someone help me understand this?
Here is where I moved mine too.
Attachment 324002
Attachment 324001
Wayne
I bought my UPR used for a great price, so far I like it. I recently relocated it under the truck so it would stay cooler cause under good it got so hot I couldn't unscrew the "bowl" without gloves. Anyways while reading this tread I say they have a diffuser so I bought it. Now I'm reading this thread and some say to take the mesh out of the exit. UPR do you suggest this?
My theory would be take out the inlet so that the oil from the inlet isn't trapped/stored near the top. It falls straight to the button. And keeping the mesh on the exit would filter any oil if any before getting into the intake.
Can someone help me understand this?
Here is where I moved mine too.
Attachment 324002
Attachment 324001
Wayne
If you look at one of our dragsters, on the passenger side cylinder head you can see the pulley for a Aerospace Components vacuum pump. We pull from one bank and have an adjustable vac relief valve on the opposite side as we dont want to pull over 15" or so (over 15" or so begins to pull oil off the wrist pins so we limit it around that point).
This way we not only are constantly evacuating, we also can run a lower tension ring set and the vacuum will pull them to the cylinder wall tighter for less blow by and more power.:
And here is where a breathered can comes in as we route what is pulled into this can to contain the oil/water/etc.:
And the pump closer:
I also want to see someone test the Bob's. We have and it tested app 30% effective, but that would not be un-biased. A totally unbiased independent test must be done for the skeptics......so 79monte, let me know.
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Hunger4TQ (06-12-2014)
#203
Removing the outlet mesh and running a longer outlet hose on a fully upgraded UPR can should increase it from ~75% effective to ~90+% effective (ballpark figures of course).
Last edited by jgiddy; 06-12-2014 at 04:05 PM.
#205
If I ever relocate my UPR can to the front of the radiator then I will need a longer inlet hose, but until then it's not needed.
#206
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The inlet hose is going to be dirty no matter what. The longer outlet hose should be the one that helps resist pull-through from the Bernoulli effect.
If I ever relocate my UPR can to the front of the radiator then I will need a longer inlet hose, but until then it's not needed.
If I ever relocate my UPR can to the front of the radiator then I will need a longer inlet hose, but until then it's not needed.
Note - on my test phases 1 and 3, the outlet hose from the UPR can is at least 30" which goes to the RX can. It didn't seem to make a difference in phase 1 with the standard can. We'll see how the extension, diffuser, and mesh removal affect it in phase 3.
#207
Senior Member
Just looking for some clarification here, if that's ok. Tracy (aka Tuner Boost), manufacturer of the Rx catch can evaporator system, did you buy out Mike (EcoboostPowerParts - located in Arizona), vendor for the Rx catch can evaporator system, change the name to EcoPowerParts (now located in Florida) and are now the manufacturer and vendor for the Rx catch can evaporator system now posting under the username Eco Tuner?
I'm old and slow, so just trying to keep up. Thanks.
I'm old and slow, so just trying to keep up. Thanks.
#208
My head mechanic at work is looking into catch cans for our F-150 Eco Boost trucks, we have approximately 35 trucks he wants to do, but he is wanting to test a few brands first. It looks like UPR and RX would be the ones to test. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
#209
Senior Member
IMO, if you want a complete solution, Rx is the way to go. I know there's all kind of debating on this issue, but unless you have a setup like the Rx that can tap into the turbo inlet to provide vacuum during boost, it doesn't matter how many improvements have been made to the UPR can, at best it's only going to trap what is being pulled through the evap, and without constant vacuum, not all blow by is going to be evacuated to catch. The only other setup that I've researched that would do the same thing as the Rx is the Elite Engineering E2. I run the EE basic cans on my 2005 GTO and 2011 Camaro LLT DI V6 and they work great for those applications but neither is FI. The Ecoboost turbos, IMO, are spooling quite often, and I'm concerned about the lack of IM vacuum to be doing a good enough job. However, I can't get anyone from Elite Engineering to call or email me back. Most of their applications are GM, so I don't know if they have an install kit for the F150 or not. Not that you couldn't come up with the supplies to install their can, but I would prefer to not have to go through that hassle. The only thing that I don't like about the Rx that the E2 provides is the ability to open the catch can for cleaning. I'm concerned the Rx could eventually gum up on the inside enough to cause problems down the road. However, with no response from Elite in a week now, the Rx is looking like my best option. My truck has 1,700 miles on it now, and I'd like to get this done sooner than later. I'm just trying to figure out who I'm dealing with here as it looks like some ownership changes have occurred. I would also recommend the clean side separator while you're at it to do the entire job right (but, I'm usually OCD when it comes to this type of thing).
#210
Thanks Phantomblackgto,
Per your recommendation I looked at the elite cans also, and the Elite and UPR seem to be better quality than the RX cans, and they are cheaper. Since I am buying at least 35 the price difference adds up. I will see if I can get a response from Elite also.
Per your recommendation I looked at the elite cans also, and the Elite and UPR seem to be better quality than the RX cans, and they are cheaper. Since I am buying at least 35 the price difference adds up. I will see if I can get a response from Elite also.