2011 5.0L Coolant Leak
#501
Curious question? Are all you lubing the O rings before you install them into the groove of each connection or did you install a clean O ring into the groove and then apply lube? Because of my mistake of not locking the T-stat side down, I just lubed them after I put in the upper radiator hose O ring, and since I ended up buying the new Y connector that came with the small O ring I left it in and just lubed it there. Mine is still fine.
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Koolponycar (02-04-2018)
The following 2 users liked this post by 2011 f150 5.0L:
Koolponycar (02-09-2018),
msgross (03-15-2018)
#504
I have a '12 with the same problem, I think. I haven't seen where it's leaking for sure, but the drip on the garage floor leads me to think it's coming from the reservoir. Mine only has 46,xxx miles. It is a 5.0.
#505
My 2015 5.0 must be leaking as well. Got a good build up of ice under my truck that I really should bring inside to a warehouse over night to melt everything . Cold air is blowing in cabin so I should top up fluids asap. But I'm in the Arctic. Gotta fly some in.
#506
Just ran into this. Said screw the bottle and hose replacement, and after looking at the Pegasus kit, realized there are much cheaper and just as good options.
I grabbed a 1" hose from Napa (Part number shown) and a 1" to 3/4" double barb brass hose fitting from our local plumbing store.
Trim off quick connect end, slip in barbed reducer, then cut 1" 90* to right length. 3 hose clamps and re-fill. All in all took me about 10 minutes including removing the intake to make it easier. No need for a fancy 1"-3/4" hose really.
Total cost was about 25 bucks.
I grabbed a 1" hose from Napa (Part number shown) and a 1" to 3/4" double barb brass hose fitting from our local plumbing store.
Trim off quick connect end, slip in barbed reducer, then cut 1" 90* to right length. 3 hose clamps and re-fill. All in all took me about 10 minutes including removing the intake to make it easier. No need for a fancy 1"-3/4" hose really.
Total cost was about 25 bucks.
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digitaltrucker (02-27-2018)
#507
I just ordered this... 4 orings for $12.80... cover both on the T connector, 1 for the res tank and another for the lower rad hose. Might as well do them all. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement...72.m2749.l2649
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digitaltrucker (03-15-2018)
#508
Senior Member
I just ordered this... 4 orings for $12.80... cover both on the T connector, 1 for the res tank and another for the lower rad hose. Might as well do them all. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement...72.m2749.l2649
#509
Amazing - quoted $350 from the dealer, a little bit of searching here, O-Ring cost .26, Shipping $6.00 (ouch!), but whatever. Time 30mins to find the Leak, 15mins to disassemble, change and reassemble.
She sat yesterday all day, and woke up to a clean driveway!
Thanks to these forums, saved some nice coin!
This is what I ordered from the O-Ring Store. www.theoringstore.com
A few pics to maybe help others.
O ring is below the white nylon ring. I used a pick tool to get it out.
The O-Ring partially removed.
You can see how flat it is.
Replacement (bought 4 of each size)
You can see the one on the left is no longer O but flattened on the sides.
She sat yesterday all day, and woke up to a clean driveway!
Thanks to these forums, saved some nice coin!
This is what I ordered from the O-Ring Store. www.theoringstore.com
A few pics to maybe help others.
O ring is below the white nylon ring. I used a pick tool to get it out.
The O-Ring partially removed.
You can see how flat it is.
Replacement (bought 4 of each size)
You can see the one on the left is no longer O but flattened on the sides.
The following users liked this post:
digitaltrucker (03-20-2018)
#510
2012 F150 STX 5.0 V8
Hello all,
I had previously tentatively identified the needed O-ring for the small end leaking 'T' Connector as a 4mm T x 32mm ID size. I placed an order for 4mm x 32, 33 and 34mm ID rings from the O-Ring Store on line last Thursday and as of Satturday these have been billed but not yet shipped. Receipt of these is at least a week out or worse and I needed to get the truck back together in the next few days. My choices were either buy the 4mm x 32mm O ring locally paying a minimum $25 fee for a $0.26 O ring that I am not 100% sure is the correct size, or pay Ford $70 for a new 'T' Connector that has the correct size O ring in it. I bought the new 'T' connector from Ford.
I took the new Ford included O ring out and measured it multiple times with different tools. It is a 4mm T x 31mm ID exact measurements. While doing this, I took the Motocraft RTS1073 replacement O ring (Rockauto @ $3.12) and determined it is the correct size for the quick disconnect upper radiator housing at the large end of the 'T' Connector part. Research on lubricating O rings confirmed lubrication is mandatory to ensure correct fit and operation when installing, with silicone fluid lube being recommended.
I lubed the small end O ring and inserted it back inside the 'T' Connector Thermostat small end, first cleaning the inside slot. The 'T' Connector was pushed onto the rubber hose engine goose neck housing first and then onto the Thermostat housing end locking the slip ring. Used a small amount of silicone lube on the rubber hose inside to reduce friction and help it slide on. The 'T' comes with a new constant tension clamp locked in the open position. Line this up if needed after the rubber hose is pushed in all the way on and tap the lock tap with a heavy slotted screwdriver to unlock it and let it clamp.
I pulled the snap ring clip on the upper radiator hose of the old 'T' Connector and separated it. I removed the old O ring, cleaned the inside slot and installed the new Motocraft RTS1073 4mm T x 37mm ID O ring after coating it with the silicone lube. The old ring was worn and squeezed and is behind a white nylon tapered insert which stays in place. I attached the upper radiator hose quick disconnect to the large end of the new installed 'T' Connector and closed its snap ring. The throttle body was reinstalled carefully tightening its (4) bolts slowly and evenly in small increments. The air box was then reinstalled and the antifreeze coolant added to the coolant recovery tank squeezing the upper radiator hose to help remove trapped air. Ran the engine with the heater on maximum for a while until the engine temp gauge was up to mid range. Checked both 'T' Connector quick disconnect fittings and its rubber hose and there are no signs of leaks.
Knowing now what the two 'T' Connector O ring sizes are, I am ordering (4) each of the 4mm T x 31mm ID and 4mm T x 37mm ID O rings from the O-Ring Store as future spares. I am also ordering (4) each of their 4.5mm T x 31mm ID and 4.5mm x 37mm ID O rings as a substitute for possible future need. The 4.5mm T is 0.020" thicker and will provide additional compression (if needed). Just got back for a longer road test and all seems well with no signs of leaks.
Hello all,
I had previously tentatively identified the needed O-ring for the small end leaking 'T' Connector as a 4mm T x 32mm ID size. I placed an order for 4mm x 32, 33 and 34mm ID rings from the O-Ring Store on line last Thursday and as of Satturday these have been billed but not yet shipped. Receipt of these is at least a week out or worse and I needed to get the truck back together in the next few days. My choices were either buy the 4mm x 32mm O ring locally paying a minimum $25 fee for a $0.26 O ring that I am not 100% sure is the correct size, or pay Ford $70 for a new 'T' Connector that has the correct size O ring in it. I bought the new 'T' connector from Ford.
I took the new Ford included O ring out and measured it multiple times with different tools. It is a 4mm T x 31mm ID exact measurements. While doing this, I took the Motocraft RTS1073 replacement O ring (Rockauto @ $3.12) and determined it is the correct size for the quick disconnect upper radiator housing at the large end of the 'T' Connector part. Research on lubricating O rings confirmed lubrication is mandatory to ensure correct fit and operation when installing, with silicone fluid lube being recommended.
I lubed the small end O ring and inserted it back inside the 'T' Connector Thermostat small end, first cleaning the inside slot. The 'T' Connector was pushed onto the rubber hose engine goose neck housing first and then onto the Thermostat housing end locking the slip ring. Used a small amount of silicone lube on the rubber hose inside to reduce friction and help it slide on. The 'T' comes with a new constant tension clamp locked in the open position. Line this up if needed after the rubber hose is pushed in all the way on and tap the lock tap with a heavy slotted screwdriver to unlock it and let it clamp.
I pulled the snap ring clip on the upper radiator hose of the old 'T' Connector and separated it. I removed the old O ring, cleaned the inside slot and installed the new Motocraft RTS1073 4mm T x 37mm ID O ring after coating it with the silicone lube. The old ring was worn and squeezed and is behind a white nylon tapered insert which stays in place. I attached the upper radiator hose quick disconnect to the large end of the new installed 'T' Connector and closed its snap ring. The throttle body was reinstalled carefully tightening its (4) bolts slowly and evenly in small increments. The air box was then reinstalled and the antifreeze coolant added to the coolant recovery tank squeezing the upper radiator hose to help remove trapped air. Ran the engine with the heater on maximum for a while until the engine temp gauge was up to mid range. Checked both 'T' Connector quick disconnect fittings and its rubber hose and there are no signs of leaks.
Knowing now what the two 'T' Connector O ring sizes are, I am ordering (4) each of the 4mm T x 31mm ID and 4mm T x 37mm ID O rings from the O-Ring Store as future spares. I am also ordering (4) each of their 4.5mm T x 31mm ID and 4.5mm x 37mm ID O rings as a substitute for possible future need. The 4.5mm T is 0.020" thicker and will provide additional compression (if needed). Just got back for a longer road test and all seems well with no signs of leaks.
The info you have provided is extensive, much appreciated and will save me a whole bunch of money.
I'm not a mechanic, however I'm a toolmaker and therefore relate to the technical details you have posted.
Thx
The following users liked this post:
digitaltrucker (03-27-2018)