2011 5.0L Coolant Leak
06-05-2017, 07:34 PM
#411
Senior Member
Did you replace the T-connector at the same time? I remember reading when one it fails then the overflow hose (often) isn't far behind, or vise versa. That ended up being true for me - both went around the same time.
I've gone maybe 5k on my new OEM hose and 6+ months without issue. I check the bottle every so often and still holding strong.
I've gone maybe 5k on my new OEM hose and 6+ months without issue. I check the bottle every so often and still holding strong.
06-06-2017, 11:39 AM
#412
The T Connector and Upper Radiator Hose O Ring was replaced around Christmas time with the water pump that had started to weep. Fortunately, I had a local trustworthy shop take care of that for much less than the dealer would.
I do think this reservoir leak could have been around longer because I had noticed a faint smell of coolant occasionally and the level did mysteriously drop once or twice and then would hold steady for months.
Your post did factor in to my decision to try the oem hose first before using the Pegasus kit, but I was not as lucky.
I do think this reservoir leak could have been around longer because I had noticed a faint smell of coolant occasionally and the level did mysteriously drop once or twice and then would hold steady for months.
Your post did factor in to my decision to try the oem hose first before using the Pegasus kit, but I was not as lucky.
11-02-2017, 05:37 PM
#413
Senior Member
Sorry, that should be 31mm.
Last edited by Spiky; 11-10-2017 at 06:09 AM.
11-02-2017, 06:32 PM
#414
Hey all.. I wanted to do a write up on my situation and see if it can't save some head ache for you guys (if your situation is similar). Okay so everyone is having an issue right out of the reservoir where the quick connect is at. The 5.0's is only a short hose as the eco-boost has a hose that runs quite a long ways. I could easily be wrong, I'm working with a 2012 5.0.
So my issues have been seasonal.. call me lazy but my truck leaks every year somewhere under the 40 degrees mark as I'm from the mid-west (Kansas). It's not a giant leak but a drip. Its a drip over night as I've read so much on forums. It goes away at operation temperature which makes sense, the warmer it gets the more it expands hence the leak stops or becomes even more minute.
So the fix... As I pulled apart the quick connection ultimately draining the coolant reservoir, I found the O-ring. Luckily I am a fire fighter and had access to a good amount of sizes of O-rings. In the post by Spiky above He states its a 41 mm O-ring. Now before I forget the o-ring will be on the hose side of the connect. It is behind the beveled white edge. I found my o-ring to be semi flat and not very sturdy. So I found a more rigid o-ring of the same size and replaced it.
I'm not saying this will work for everyone of that your leak is for sure in the same spot. Just saying take the 5 minutes to check that o-ring and replace it before you replace reservoirs or that house that more than likely has the same o-ring in it.
I really hope this helps guys.. and that you didn't have to read gobs and gobs of information.
So my issues have been seasonal.. call me lazy but my truck leaks every year somewhere under the 40 degrees mark as I'm from the mid-west (Kansas). It's not a giant leak but a drip. Its a drip over night as I've read so much on forums. It goes away at operation temperature which makes sense, the warmer it gets the more it expands hence the leak stops or becomes even more minute.
So the fix... As I pulled apart the quick connection ultimately draining the coolant reservoir, I found the O-ring. Luckily I am a fire fighter and had access to a good amount of sizes of O-rings. In the post by Spiky above He states its a 41 mm O-ring. Now before I forget the o-ring will be on the hose side of the connect. It is behind the beveled white edge. I found my o-ring to be semi flat and not very sturdy. So I found a more rigid o-ring of the same size and replaced it.
I'm not saying this will work for everyone of that your leak is for sure in the same spot. Just saying take the 5 minutes to check that o-ring and replace it before you replace reservoirs or that house that more than likely has the same o-ring in it.
I really hope this helps guys.. and that you didn't have to read gobs and gobs of information.
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mcfarmall (12-18-2017)
12-13-2017, 07:18 PM
#415
I just started having this problem with my 2012 5.0 right where the hose connects to the reservoir. I disconnected the hose and wrapped teflon tape around the part of reservoir that meets with the hose. I just did this tonight I will see if this last any length of time.
12-18-2017, 06:59 PM
#416
Senior Member
So now that it has been confirmed that there is indeed an o-ring in the elbow where it connects to the reservoir, what is the size (ID, OD, cross section width) and the material (Viton, Buna, EPDM, etc.)?
Spiky and Ozbun above state 31mm & 41mm respectively, so what IS the size using the nomenclature in my first sentence?
Sadly, I ordered the parts from Pegsus Racing already but am eager to put in an o-ring first and perhaps return the other items.
Spiky and Ozbun above state 31mm & 41mm respectively, so what IS the size using the nomenclature in my first sentence?
Sadly, I ordered the parts from Pegsus Racing already but am eager to put in an o-ring first and perhaps return the other items.
12-24-2017, 07:02 PM
#417
Senior Member
Just noticed this last comment. Ozbun is talking about the reservoir issue, and I have talked about the Y connector in front of the thermostat. Totally different issues.
And I did correct my typo about the 31mm o ring.
And I did correct my typo about the 31mm o ring.
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mcfarmall (01-01-2018)
12-24-2017, 08:19 PM
#418
Add my 2011 5.0 XLT with 120K miles to the reservoir connector leak list. Wish I had come across this thread before I had the hose changed. That did not work and the shop was going for a tank change next. After they quoted me the price II put a halt to that. I found this thread and did not hesitate on ordering the Pegasus kit.
Until the kit arrives I'll just keep an eye on it. It's not leaking much but any leak is too much for me. I'll check back in after the repair.
Until the kit arrives I'll just keep an eye on it. It's not leaking much but any leak is too much for me. I'll check back in after the repair.
12-25-2017, 09:27 PM
#419
Senior Member
The new hose has worked for me thus far and it's been about a year. Maybe double check their work as well. It's been a long while, but I remember needing to cram the new hose on with some force and the clip as well.
Did you confirm for sure the leak was still coming from there? I found after I replaced the Y connector, a few weeks later it started leaking from the reservoir hose - I've seen a few folks say the same, when ones goes, the other seemed to follow.
Did you confirm for sure the leak was still coming from there? I found after I replaced the Y connector, a few weeks later it started leaking from the reservoir hose - I've seen a few folks say the same, when ones goes, the other seemed to follow.
01-02-2018, 01:43 PM
#420
2012 F150 STX 5.0 V8
Hello all,
I had previously tentatively identified the needed O-ring for the small end leaking 'T' Connector as a 4mm T x 32mm ID size. I placed an order for 4mm x 32, 33 and 34mm ID rings from the O-Ring Store on line last Thursday and as of Satturday these have been billed but not yet shipped. Receipt of these is at least a week out or worse and I needed to get the truck back together in the next few days. My choices were either buy the 4mm x 32mm O ring locally paying a minimum $25 fee for a $0.26 O ring that I am not 100% sure is the correct size, or pay Ford $70 for a new 'T' Connector that has the correct size O ring in it. I bought the new 'T' connector from Ford.
I took the new Ford included O ring out and measured it multiple times with different tools. It is a 4mm T x 31mm ID exact measurements. While doing this, I took the Motocraft RTS1073 replacement O ring (Rockauto @ $3.12) and determined it is the correct size for the quick disconnect upper radiator housing at the large end of the 'T' Connector part. Research on lubricating O rings confirmed lubrication is mandatory to ensure correct fit and operation when installing, with silicone fluid lube being recommended.
I lubed the small end O ring and inserted it back inside the 'T' Connector Thermostat small end, first cleaning the inside slot. The 'T' Connector was pushed onto the rubber hose engine goose neck housing first and then onto the Thermostat housing end locking the slip ring. Used a small amount of silicone lube on the rubber hose inside to reduce friction and help it slide on. The 'T' comes with a new constant tension clamp locked in the open position. Line this up if needed after the rubber hose is pushed in all the way on and tap the lock tap with a heavy slotted screwdriver to unlock it and let it clamp.
I pulled the snap ring clip on the upper radiator hose of the old 'T' Connector and separated it. I removed the old O ring, cleaned the inside slot and installed the new Motocraft RTS1073 4mm T x 37mm ID O ring after coating it with the silicone lube. The old ring was worn and squeezed and is behind a white nylon tapered insert which stays in place. I attached the upper radiator hose quick disconnect to the large end of the new installed 'T' Connector and closed its snap ring. The throttle body was reinstalled carefully tightening its (4) bolts slowly and evenly in small increments. The air box was then reinstalled and the antifreeze coolant added to the coolant recovery tank squeezing the upper radiator hose to help remove trapped air. Ran the engine with the heater on maximum for a while until the engine temp gauge was up to mid range. Checked both 'T' Connector quick disconnect fittings and its rubber hose and there are no signs of leaks.
Knowing now what the two 'T' Connector O ring sizes are, I am ordering (4) each of the 4mm T x 31mm ID and 4mm T x 37mm ID O rings from the O-Ring Store as future spares. I am also ordering (4) each of their 4.5mm T x 31mm ID and 4.5mm x 37mm ID O rings as a substitute for possible future need. The 4.5mm T is 0.020" thicker and will provide additional compression (if needed). Just got back for a longer road test and all seems well with no signs of leaks.
Hello all,
I had previously tentatively identified the needed O-ring for the small end leaking 'T' Connector as a 4mm T x 32mm ID size. I placed an order for 4mm x 32, 33 and 34mm ID rings from the O-Ring Store on line last Thursday and as of Satturday these have been billed but not yet shipped. Receipt of these is at least a week out or worse and I needed to get the truck back together in the next few days. My choices were either buy the 4mm x 32mm O ring locally paying a minimum $25 fee for a $0.26 O ring that I am not 100% sure is the correct size, or pay Ford $70 for a new 'T' Connector that has the correct size O ring in it. I bought the new 'T' connector from Ford.
I took the new Ford included O ring out and measured it multiple times with different tools. It is a 4mm T x 31mm ID exact measurements. While doing this, I took the Motocraft RTS1073 replacement O ring (Rockauto @ $3.12) and determined it is the correct size for the quick disconnect upper radiator housing at the large end of the 'T' Connector part. Research on lubricating O rings confirmed lubrication is mandatory to ensure correct fit and operation when installing, with silicone fluid lube being recommended.
I lubed the small end O ring and inserted it back inside the 'T' Connector Thermostat small end, first cleaning the inside slot. The 'T' Connector was pushed onto the rubber hose engine goose neck housing first and then onto the Thermostat housing end locking the slip ring. Used a small amount of silicone lube on the rubber hose inside to reduce friction and help it slide on. The 'T' comes with a new constant tension clamp locked in the open position. Line this up if needed after the rubber hose is pushed in all the way on and tap the lock tap with a heavy slotted screwdriver to unlock it and let it clamp.
I pulled the snap ring clip on the upper radiator hose of the old 'T' Connector and separated it. I removed the old O ring, cleaned the inside slot and installed the new Motocraft RTS1073 4mm T x 37mm ID O ring after coating it with the silicone lube. The old ring was worn and squeezed and is behind a white nylon tapered insert which stays in place. I attached the upper radiator hose quick disconnect to the large end of the new installed 'T' Connector and closed its snap ring. The throttle body was reinstalled carefully tightening its (4) bolts slowly and evenly in small increments. The air box was then reinstalled and the antifreeze coolant added to the coolant recovery tank squeezing the upper radiator hose to help remove trapped air. Ran the engine with the heater on maximum for a while until the engine temp gauge was up to mid range. Checked both 'T' Connector quick disconnect fittings and its rubber hose and there are no signs of leaks.
Knowing now what the two 'T' Connector O ring sizes are, I am ordering (4) each of the 4mm T x 31mm ID and 4mm T x 37mm ID O rings from the O-Ring Store as future spares. I am also ordering (4) each of their 4.5mm T x 31mm ID and 4.5mm x 37mm ID O rings as a substitute for possible future need. The 4.5mm T is 0.020" thicker and will provide additional compression (if needed). Just got back for a longer road test and all seems well with no signs of leaks.
Curious to know that nearly a year later if this fix is still holding up? My '12 5.0 has developed a slow leak on the thermostat side of the y connector. I'm planning on ordering the o rings and changing both of them while I have the part accessible. Any insight on this fix?