Front Component Speaker Install
This is my first write up with pictures, so bear with me if it isn't the best. I had a couple guys wanting help and some pics of my install of my component speakers with crossovers and tweeters.
Parts List:
-Speakers of your choice
-Paneling tool
-Socket set- 8mm and 5.5mm are the only two I needed I believe.
-Wire crimper/stripper
-Wire cutter
-Speaker wire (I needed this because the wire from my tweeters wasn't long enough)
-Heat shrink splice connectors
-Electric tape
-Hole saw (if you are flush mounting as I did, size will depend on your tweeter diameter--Mine were 45mm (1 3/4"))
-May also need sandpaper and/or a dremel with a grinder bit. (I needed a dremel because I had a 1 1/4" hole saw and did not want to purchase a larger one for this project, so I used the dremel to grind out the circle to 1 3/4")
-A sharpie or other writing utensil
-Speaker bracket if you aren't mounting 6x8 size speakers
-Speaker wiring harness for front two speakers. (got the brackets and harnesses free with speaker purchase from crutchfield)
-velcro strips with 3m backing (optional) or plenty of electric tape will also do the trick to mount crossovers.
First things first, unlock your doors and disconnect your battery with the 8mm socket.
This install is for the passenger side door, the driver side will be identical with the exception of an extra wiring harness you need to disconnect for the mirror controls.
Im not posting pics of how to remove the door panels as I'm sure you can do a search for more detailed instructions.
Use your paneling tool or small flat head screw driver to pry the plastic piece off behind the door handle and the piece in the bottom of the handle you use to pull the door shut. Remove the two screws that were exposed (8mm socket I believe) Also remove two screws from the bottom of the door panel (5.5mm socket). Take a prybar or small flathead and pry the control panel up that has your window and door lock buttons in it and disconnect the wiring harnesses. Pull up on the panel to remove it, you can then push the back of the handle to pop it out of the door and turn it sideways to slide the panel off over this.
Now, decide where you want to mount the tweeters, and outline your flush mount for the tweeter with a sharpie.

Next, use your hole saw to cut the hole.

As stated earlier, I needed to use a dremel to grind the hole another 1/2" bigger as my hole saw was 1 1/4" and I needed a 1 3/4" hole.


Checked for proper fit, and voila, your flush mount is done.

Next comes your wiring and mounting your crossover.
Parts List:
-Speakers of your choice
-Paneling tool
-Socket set- 8mm and 5.5mm are the only two I needed I believe.
-Wire crimper/stripper
-Wire cutter
-Speaker wire (I needed this because the wire from my tweeters wasn't long enough)
-Heat shrink splice connectors
-Electric tape
-Hole saw (if you are flush mounting as I did, size will depend on your tweeter diameter--Mine were 45mm (1 3/4"))
-May also need sandpaper and/or a dremel with a grinder bit. (I needed a dremel because I had a 1 1/4" hole saw and did not want to purchase a larger one for this project, so I used the dremel to grind out the circle to 1 3/4")
-A sharpie or other writing utensil
-Speaker bracket if you aren't mounting 6x8 size speakers
-Speaker wiring harness for front two speakers. (got the brackets and harnesses free with speaker purchase from crutchfield)
-velcro strips with 3m backing (optional) or plenty of electric tape will also do the trick to mount crossovers.
First things first, unlock your doors and disconnect your battery with the 8mm socket.
This install is for the passenger side door, the driver side will be identical with the exception of an extra wiring harness you need to disconnect for the mirror controls.
Im not posting pics of how to remove the door panels as I'm sure you can do a search for more detailed instructions.
Use your paneling tool or small flat head screw driver to pry the plastic piece off behind the door handle and the piece in the bottom of the handle you use to pull the door shut. Remove the two screws that were exposed (8mm socket I believe) Also remove two screws from the bottom of the door panel (5.5mm socket). Take a prybar or small flathead and pry the control panel up that has your window and door lock buttons in it and disconnect the wiring harnesses. Pull up on the panel to remove it, you can then push the back of the handle to pop it out of the door and turn it sideways to slide the panel off over this.
Now, decide where you want to mount the tweeters, and outline your flush mount for the tweeter with a sharpie.

Next, use your hole saw to cut the hole.

As stated earlier, I needed to use a dremel to grind the hole another 1/2" bigger as my hole saw was 1 1/4" and I needed a 1 3/4" hole.


Checked for proper fit, and voila, your flush mount is done.

Next comes your wiring and mounting your crossover.
Last edited by mcnewskie; Dec 11, 2011 at 12:20 PM.
My tweeter wires were not going to be long enough to reach the crossover from this mounting location, so I extended them. strip each end of your wires and connect them with whatever method you prefer. I used heat shrink splice connectors.

Once spliced, I taped the splice connectors together and I ran the wire behind the air vent that hits the window and taped it down to secure it.

I cut the wiring harness in half that came with the speakers.

Strip the ends of the wires as shown, these will connect to your crossover, and the harness connects to your factory harness in the door.
Then spliced a little extra wire to the other end of the wiring harness to extend the wires coming from the speakers themselves some.

Next, use a lot of tape or I used velcro strips with 3m backing to attach crossover into the door behind the speaker. Connected all + and -(ground) wires to crossover and stuck it in there.


Once spliced, I taped the splice connectors together and I ran the wire behind the air vent that hits the window and taped it down to secure it.

I cut the wiring harness in half that came with the speakers.

Strip the ends of the wires as shown, these will connect to your crossover, and the harness connects to your factory harness in the door.
Then spliced a little extra wire to the other end of the wiring harness to extend the wires coming from the speakers themselves some.

Next, use a lot of tape or I used velcro strips with 3m backing to attach crossover into the door behind the speaker. Connected all + and -(ground) wires to crossover and stuck it in there.

I ran the wire from the tweeter through the mounting bracket for the speakers so It would connect to the crossover.

Secure your speaker, slide your door handle back through the panel and snap it in, put your door panel back on, reconnect all wiring harnesses to your door, put all screws back in, and you are finished. Reconnect your battery and enjoy! Go ahead and grab drink of choice and listen to your new sound.

I have since had a 4 channel amp installed professionally and the input for the crossovers is no longer connected to the speaker wiring harness, it is instead connected to the amp. I have no pictures of this as I wasn't there for install. Hope this helps someone out there, good luck guys.

Secure your speaker, slide your door handle back through the panel and snap it in, put your door panel back on, reconnect all wiring harnesses to your door, put all screws back in, and you are finished. Reconnect your battery and enjoy! Go ahead and grab drink of choice and listen to your new sound.

I have since had a 4 channel amp installed professionally and the input for the crossovers is no longer connected to the speaker wiring harness, it is instead connected to the amp. I have no pictures of this as I wasn't there for install. Hope this helps someone out there, good luck guys.
Thanks for the pics, very helpful. Just one comment, and maybe this is my OCD, but I see that you mounted the crossover on the inside of the door skin. Not sure that this is the best place, I think somewhere between the panel and door would be better. That would be my first choice, providing there is room. I think there can potentially be water ingress there, a concern especially where I live. Great work and thanks for taking the time and effort to share it with us.
Have a great day,
Rob.
Have a great day,
Rob.
Originally Posted by RobJok
Thanks for the pics, very helpful. Just one comment, and maybe this is my OCD, but I see that you mounted the crossover on the inside of the door skin. Not sure that this is the best place, I think somewhere between the panel and door would be better. That would be my first choice, providing there is room. I think there can potentially be water ingress there, a concern especially where I live. Great work and thanks for taking the time and effort to share it with us.
Have a great day,
Rob.
Have a great day,
Rob.
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FYI..I checked my crossovers this past weekend, you were right they had some corrosion on the screws...luckily it didn't short anything out...not much room inside the panel but I peeled back the white felt at the bottom back and mounted them there right below the part of the door that has the speaker grille cover in it..tight fit but seems to work.

