Engine Valve Train and Timing Chains
#1
Engine Valve Train and Timing Chains
Hello, I have a few questions for y'all. I have a 2001 F150 5.4 V8 with 193,345 miles on it. It's been runnning like a champ! However,a recently had a slight knocking tapping noise in the front engine bay. I took it to several shops and they have determined it to be the valve train or timing chains. My questions is, what do i do? New engine? Re-build? Fix the issues and move on? Any help or ideas would be appricated,thank you!
#2
sounds like some serious stuff!!, i have a 2001 4.6 expd. in january i replaced both timimg chains, all because the truck has +170k mi. here's what i would do; if you took good care of your truck... with maintenance schedules & all duress... then YES!!! fix it its worth it!!! also beware!! if you're gonna take the challenge you have to be on your toes!! meaning: must have a few specialty tools... they're a must; with that in hand, you can do it also do your HOMEWORK aka: research. try to be well informed of the nature of work. get as much feedback as possible
#3
Senior Member
I just completed the timing gear and lash adjusters, rockers rebuild on a 5.4 3v and whilst I was crapping myself the whole time in case it didn't work, when it started up and sounded as sweet as a nut.....its worth it.
I don't know if your engine is the same as mine (2005) but as mentioned, be aware of all the work you are about to get into and do the job properly and do it once!
I had a strong ticking sound on the passenger top end, I thought I would get away with changing the lash adjusters which I did. (false ecconomy).
Getting the top end stripped enough to just get the valve covers off is about 2 hours of unplugging and labling all the connectors! The valve covers have 14 bolts and some are hard to get at, oh, and on my truck the AC has to be discharged and removed just to remove the passenger side valve cover!
To also remove the front timing cover, is the rad top hose (drain coolant and oil) shroud and fan, serpentine belt and idlers, pulleys and tensioner. Then 15 or so bolts that hold the cover in place.
Only then you can set things up and time the engine and start to address the timing chains, sprocket, tensioners, guides and cam phasers, I also changed the phaser solenoids, all lash adjusters and rockers, new oil, filter, clean the throttle body etc etc.....
I think I spent about $1300 on parts, oil etc....but all that at the dealership would beover $4000!
Learn from the experienced guys on here like I did and you will feel so good after you hear the difference!
One other things I did, was compression test the engine first! I have 170,000 miles but the compression was all good, good oil pressure too, so I didn't mind going further!
If I can help at all, let me know!
Good luck
Mark
I don't know if your engine is the same as mine (2005) but as mentioned, be aware of all the work you are about to get into and do the job properly and do it once!
I had a strong ticking sound on the passenger top end, I thought I would get away with changing the lash adjusters which I did. (false ecconomy).
Getting the top end stripped enough to just get the valve covers off is about 2 hours of unplugging and labling all the connectors! The valve covers have 14 bolts and some are hard to get at, oh, and on my truck the AC has to be discharged and removed just to remove the passenger side valve cover!
To also remove the front timing cover, is the rad top hose (drain coolant and oil) shroud and fan, serpentine belt and idlers, pulleys and tensioner. Then 15 or so bolts that hold the cover in place.
Only then you can set things up and time the engine and start to address the timing chains, sprocket, tensioners, guides and cam phasers, I also changed the phaser solenoids, all lash adjusters and rockers, new oil, filter, clean the throttle body etc etc.....
I think I spent about $1300 on parts, oil etc....but all that at the dealership would beover $4000!
Learn from the experienced guys on here like I did and you will feel so good after you hear the difference!
One other things I did, was compression test the engine first! I have 170,000 miles but the compression was all good, good oil pressure too, so I didn't mind going further!
If I can help at all, let me know!
Good luck
Mark
#4
well i'm glad that you manage to get it done!!! also let me attatch a website that you might find quite usefull, i know i have!! troubleshoot my vehicle.com. and the other one is EasyAutoDiagnostic.com
#5
Thank all of you for the replies and insight on my issue. I feel good and informed on this thread. I also have another question though. I want to rebuild my engine, i found a rebuild engine kit for my 2001 5.4 V8 triton. What does that engine rebuild kit need to have, to be truely a "rebuild"?
#6
If you're going for a performance rebuild or if you just want to get your hands dirty and have the extra cash, go for it. It's a fun and rewarding proccess. Otherwise, it will be cheaper to get a crate engine and put the long block in yourself. Between machine work and the actual rebuild kit, you'll end up spending a lot more money to do a stock rebuild yourself. Most crate engines will come with a warranty also. I think autozones is mostly 3 year.
#7
I would go with a warrantee crate engine. Get the HP version you are comfortable with. They give you credit for your old block.
Trending Topics
#8
Questions!
Okay,now i have a lot of questions to ask. I am no wizard in the engine world,so i need clearing up. I have heard about autozone's crate engines, but are y'all saying that its not 100% ready to go? Second question, are y'all saying rebuilding my engine is a waste of time and money? Third and final question. Where else could i do something like this? i've heard about used and junkyard engines but to be honest. that sounds extremlely sketchy and not a smart idea. Any help is greatly needed. Please and thank you!
#10
Senior Member
Originally Posted by OakenPrettyboy
Also,someone said they give me "credit" for my old one?