Looking at an F150 4x4 3.5EB as my next pickup

I drive a pickup out of necessity more than desire

i really just want a road course oriented raptor that can tow a heavy ski boat or car hauler

short of that I’d like to lower a lariat and get it to handle decent

so where should I start and who should I avoid?

I want a hunkered down look that’s not so low that the tires lose their concentricity with the wheel openings. So probably 2/4.

out of the gate I’m not impressed by whoever mans the phones at belltech “our kits will reduce your payload and tow capacity but we have no idea by how much.” LOL are they serious?

 

Check out my build thread (mis named because I could not change it)
Bilstein 2WD struts up front set to max low
DJM shackles in the rear, max low, blocks removed. Bilstein 2WD shocks in the rear.
Timbrens bumps to carry the extra load.

Works very well, though I want to pick up a bit of rear weight, so am working on that.

 

In the rear, to get at least 4" of drop you will need to flip the rearend. Instead of the axle tubes being under the leaf springs, now they are on top. This means you are now limited by the tensile strength of the u-bolts. In stock trim the u-bolts are just locking the rear to the leaf and not carrying any weight. I am surprised that Belltech cannot provide a good number, but then again with everything being so liability based these days I guess it shouldn't.

 

I haven't done my truck yet either, but it's '19 STX Supercrew. I removed the 1" blocks under the rear axle...couldn't tell. I've talked to several local experts, and they recommend for daily driving, a 2" front, and 3" rear is about max, especially if you tow. You may even want air bags to augment if the trailer is heavy. Any lower, and trimming is an issue, as well as ride quality. Since it's a requirement, instead of your passion, I doubt you wanna sacrifice ride. Airbags are a possibility, if you wanna spend. Also check the tire size you wanna use, to ensure it'll fit a lowered truck. i.e. I looked into 24x12 rims and 335/40R/24 tires (really expensive), only to find out they wouldn't fit without rubbing, or leaving the standard ride height alone. Not an option, as I'm short, and wanna bring it down outta the clouds. What one did suggest, is lower first, wheels and tires after, but if the tires stick out, and you like your paint, get flares. Either that, or everyone lide to me, and my logic sucks. You decide.

 

I would do 2wd struts with maxtrac 2" drop spindles , 4" flip kit and IHC helper bags. That would look good, align properly and tow anything you want. Here is my 4x4 with maxtrac 2" drop spindles , belltech coilovers 3" and 6" flip kit (ihc helper bags)

 

I’ve been planning to lower my 2020 extended cab 2x and for the first time I looked under the rear frame. I was surprised to see a module above the axle that appears to carry brake lines and maybe electrical. This module would appear to interfere with lowering. Does this need to be addressed?

 

It may depend on the kit, but I would say typically no. You may have to remove some of the attachment hardware temporarily to get the rear relocated, but you will reinstall it in the original location. None of the lines themselves need to be tampered with.

 

thanks for responding. I’m looking at the Belltech kit, 1001HPK.

 

I wish I knew about the IHC helper bags before purchasing my Airlift 5000 setup. I have to do some fabricating to get it to work, and I think the IHC would have worked perfectly. I want to carry a couple of motorcycles in the bed of the truck, and the Timbrens aren't quite cutting it.