A Word to the Wise
5 Year Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 532
Likes: 116
I will be replacing all the plugs and COPs soon. Will the fuel rail move enough to remove COPs without pulling it off the fuel injectors or should I have new O rings ready to replace old O rings if the fuel rail is pulled off the fuel injectors?
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 23,207
Likes: 8,628
From: Utah
If you can't take it, that's on you. I don't care how long you've bee turning wrenches.... it doesn't put you above anyone to start calling us all names.
All mbb said was
Just because you've chosen to remove a tire with a crescent wrench doesn't make him a smart aleck for telling you to use an impact.
5 Year Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,181
Likes: 1,209
Never know which will occur....for certain
98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28,539
Likes: 7,641
From: MI
When replacing the number 8 cylinder coil over plug pack (COP)...which is not easy due to the fuel rail, EGR tube and various vacuum lines in the way...DO the following...
- Unplug the electrical socket from the COP
using a 1/4” drive ratchet with 3” extension and a 7 mm socket, loosen the COP attaching bolt
- When ratchet no longer clicks when listening, remove extension from ratchet, place that with the 7 mm socket back on to bolt and finger loosen turn
- Once bolt is out of engine head (bolt no longer moves up while finger loosening)
- Use mechanical fingers, from the side of the bolt and head of bolt, grasp and remove bolt. This ensures you don’t drop the bolt...
- Tilt COP down towards you to remove. Tilting clears the fuel rail.
- Liberally coat COP boot that goes over the plug, with “boot anti sieze grease.
- Using the same way you tilted and removed the COP, install the new COP. As best as you can, rotate the COP down onto the spark plug head. You won’t here a “click” as the boot spring engages the plug head...no worries...just make SURE the distance between the COP and the engine head is almost even.
- Using the mechanical fingers, “grasp” the installation bolt in same position used to remove
- Place bolt over COP mounting hole...ensure tip of bolt goes in the mounting hole and is horizontal to the COP, meaning it’s in the threads of the engine head.
- Use the extension and socket to start the bolt into the engine head...don’t force this. You will strip the threads. Just finger turn the extension and socket until you are sure it’s going in straight.
- When you can no longer finger tighten, put ratchet back on extension.
- Tighten per torque specs for the COP.
- Fire up a smoke and pop a beer open...you’ve earned it!
- Unplug the electrical socket from the COP
using a 1/4” drive ratchet with 3” extension and a 7 mm socket, loosen the COP attaching bolt
- When ratchet no longer clicks when listening, remove extension from ratchet, place that with the 7 mm socket back on to bolt and finger loosen turn
- Once bolt is out of engine head (bolt no longer moves up while finger loosening)
- Use mechanical fingers, from the side of the bolt and head of bolt, grasp and remove bolt. This ensures you don’t drop the bolt...
- Tilt COP down towards you to remove. Tilting clears the fuel rail.
- Liberally coat COP boot that goes over the plug, with “boot anti sieze grease.
- Using the same way you tilted and removed the COP, install the new COP. As best as you can, rotate the COP down onto the spark plug head. You won’t here a “click” as the boot spring engages the plug head...no worries...just make SURE the distance between the COP and the engine head is almost even.
- Using the mechanical fingers, “grasp” the installation bolt in same position used to remove
- Place bolt over COP mounting hole...ensure tip of bolt goes in the mounting hole and is horizontal to the COP, meaning it’s in the threads of the engine head.
- Use the extension and socket to start the bolt into the engine head...don’t force this. You will strip the threads. Just finger turn the extension and socket until you are sure it’s going in straight.
- When you can no longer finger tighten, put ratchet back on extension.
- Tighten per torque specs for the COP.
- Fire up a smoke and pop a beer open...you’ve earned it!
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 23,207
Likes: 8,628
From: Utah
98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28,539
Likes: 7,641
From: MI
Yea, he quit learning a little prematurely...not really that much help. Not necessarily a bad thing with a realistic frame of mind...vs Joe champion shiii lol. They whine, cry , stomp their feet irritatingly so at other opinions. Yea lol, been called many things...I might have to add that one to the list. It would go right under "clocked pole". Have you suffered that one yet ?
Last edited by Jbrew; Apr 30, 2019 at 08:05 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 23,207
Likes: 8,628
From: Utah
LOL.... can't say that I have.
I always get a kick out of the "I've been turning wrenches since you were _______________________" comments. Don't know how old this self-proclaimed old timer is, but working with other people machinery as long as I have (yes I still do here and again), it doesn't really mean much. I work with guys that still ask me for help, and have worked there 15 to 20 years older than me. People have a certain capacity of learning, and once it's reached.... they've peaked out. Nothing else can go in.
I always get a kick out of the "I've been turning wrenches since you were _______________________" comments. Don't know how old this self-proclaimed old timer is, but working with other people machinery as long as I have (yes I still do here and again), it doesn't really mean much. I work with guys that still ask me for help, and have worked there 15 to 20 years older than me. People have a certain capacity of learning, and once it's reached.... they've peaked out. Nothing else can go in.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,545
Likes: 2,552
From: Alaska