2003 heritage 4x4 with 5.4 triton. Managed to replace plugs 1-3 and 5-6. I've tried every extension I own and can't get plug 4 to turn. I put the coil pack back on and now getting 0354. I also replaced the EGR sensor and today replaced the solenoid and getting 0406 from it. I was going to replace the valve as well, however the bolt closest to the cab instead of turning just stripped (and yes I was using the correct socket.) I need ideas to get the old valve out and the bloody plug out of 4. I've read the removal post and tried everything I saw.

 

406 is the IMS circuit. Either your hose is melted or the DPFE is bad.

When you reinstalled the coil, it's easy to screw up mounting the coil correctly. The boot can fold inside the chamber vs mounting the plug all the way.

Not sure why you can't get #4 removed. They must be blown out w/compressed air first or it can cost you an engine. It could be full of debris. #4 is prone to coolant compromise as well. Strange that it won't turn...unusual.

For the EGR valve, you probably need an extractor socket now. They mount the bolt or nut just like a regular socket but cut into it upon removal. Even Auto Zone sells cheaper Irwin extractor sockets that work well. Or vise grips and a little heat. Not much heat, propane will break down corrosion between steel and aluminum quickly. I hit them with Mapp gas real quick. Try it and you will see.

In the future, using a little 1/4" impact (battery model) works wonders and it's quick. Once you own, you'll never want to be without.

 

I'm not sure if the hose to the DPFE is compromised or not but it is new. As for the sensor with the way my luck is going I'd not be surprised at it being bad (it's new also as the old one had melted where the hoses connected and been disconnected $diety knows how long.) I've got some extractors here but can't use them right now as both my batteries are DED dead. Admittedly I am not the strongest person on the planet but I've been able to remove the rest with a little effort. I even tried gently using a home made break over bar but still couldn't get the darned thing to turn.

I'll try pulling the coil again and see if that straightens it out. It might have curled like you suggest. thanks

 

oops wrong thought

 

Well fixed the 354 error, that was my fault, had 3's wire in 4 and 4's wire laying loose. So now down to figuring out how to get the plug in 4 out.

Would using something like carb cleaner or liquid wrench cause problems on plug 4?

 

I wouldn't. That's just a bad idea without knowing what lies in the chamber. Unless you can blow the chamber out then inspect it. It's VERY strange it won't break loose...very! Well, I'd be careful. Best way to get a stuck plug is with an impact because of the way it loosens through vibration and equal force. But with a small battery impact or air dialed way down.

If your sure the chamber is clear (don't chance it, gauge the socket and extension depth if you can), using Kroil would be best. Kroil works fast, you give it second then used compressed air to force Kroil deeper and blow the excess out. Kroil, Pb blaster or LW will help, just blow the chamber out before removing that plug.

Wait, you got 4 firing again correct ? Just break it loose right after engine shut down. That will do it I expect. Doesn't take much heat to break corrosion away from aluminum.

BTW, -carb cleaner is poison around a gen 10 engine. Never use it for anything specially for finding leaks lol.

 

DED dead.

Nice Dom Deluise (Robin Hood, Men in TIghts) reference.

 

At least someone got it. Hopefully this weekend I'll be able to get the rest of the EGR taken care of if nothing else.