Torsion bars
Keys are easy to replace, only issues might be the front of the torsion bar being stuck in the front where it goes into the lower A-arm. Mine were stuck pretty good but after some penetrating oil and beating on them pretty good they broke loose. Also make sure you have a good clamp to use on the keys when taking them out and putting the new ones in. There are a couple of good videos on youtube you can watch to get some pointers,
Honestly pass on the "kits" and just buy the appropriate size blocks and u-bolts for the rear and crank the factory keys in the front. I was able to get 2.25" lift without maxing the factory keys in the front and added a larger block to the rear in order to keep my rake. $30 for the blocks and then some custom u-bolts and an alignment later I'm now able to clear 315/70R17 tires without any rubbing even at full lock (I did trim a tiny bit off the corners of the lower valence too).
Honestly pass on the "kits" and just buy the appropriate size blocks and u-bolts for the rear and crank the factory keys in the front. I was able to get 2.25" lift without maxing the factory keys in the front and added a larger block to the rear in order to keep my rake. $30 for the blocks and then some custom u-bolts and an alignment later I'm now able to clear 315/70R17 tires without any rubbing even at full lock (I did trim a tiny bit off the corners of the lower valence too).
Originally Posted by 06malibu
I havnt cranked my bars at all. I looked today and there was an inch or so of threads left. Does that mean Ill only get that much lift? Can you post pictures before and after the cranking and blocks. Thanks

When you crank on the torsion bar key bolts you are adding preload to the springs (torsion bars). Each truck can vary but you should be able to get at least 2" by tightening them up.
I'll try and get a pic of my keys later this morning to show you where I'm at after gaining my lift up front.

