Timing on the 2v 5.4
Hi all,
I followed the directions from here for replacing my head gaskets/timing components:
http://www.f150online.com/forums/art...r-engines.html
I wanted to ask/confirm a few things based on the directions above.
1) if i keep the crank keyway at 12oclock and using the marks on the cams and crank along with the links on the new chain will that put everything in time?
2) Is putting the #1 cylinder at TDC not as important as it is making sure the links/mark on the cam/crank are matched up? Only asking as I'm sure naturally when you turn the engine off it doesn't always end at TDC.
3) If I keep with the 12oclock method is there a certain time/degree for the cams or just move them based on where it needs to meet up with the links/marks?
4) When I ordered the tensioners I received someone that mentioned they were revised. They had a paper in there mentioning they are revised and came with thin metal covers for the back of them. Almost seems as if they were gaskets or spacers or block of plates. Anyone have experience with them?
Thanks for any input.
I followed the directions from here for replacing my head gaskets/timing components:
http://www.f150online.com/forums/art...r-engines.html
I wanted to ask/confirm a few things based on the directions above.
1) if i keep the crank keyway at 12oclock and using the marks on the cams and crank along with the links on the new chain will that put everything in time?
2) Is putting the #1 cylinder at TDC not as important as it is making sure the links/mark on the cam/crank are matched up? Only asking as I'm sure naturally when you turn the engine off it doesn't always end at TDC.
3) If I keep with the 12oclock method is there a certain time/degree for the cams or just move them based on where it needs to meet up with the links/marks?
4) When I ordered the tensioners I received someone that mentioned they were revised. They had a paper in there mentioning they are revised and came with thin metal covers for the back of them. Almost seems as if they were gaskets or spacers or block of plates. Anyone have experience with them?
Thanks for any input.
Keep the keyway straight up. That will be TDC for two cylinders. #1 is one of them. Line up the colored links on the chain with the crank and cams. Everything is in time at this point if all the links match up. You will have to somewhat lock the cams in place. The pass side cam will have pressure on it, it won't want to stay at the right spot to line up the links. The cam will want to spin. If it does spin around it will cause valve to piston. You will be putting valves in. I know from my dealership experience. I used two vice grips on the cam in two spots. 1 to hold it going one way and the other holding the other way. Allows some movement of the cam but not enough to hit pistons. I since have bought the tools.
I haven't dealt with too many tensioners. The early ones were better than the later design, impregnated gaskets.
I haven't dealt with too many tensioners. The early ones were better than the later design, impregnated gaskets.
Keep the keyway straight up. That will be TDC for two cylinders. #1 is one of them. Line up the colored links on the chain with the crank and cams. Everything is in time at this point if all the links match up. You will have to somewhat lock the cams in place. The pass side cam will have pressure on it, it won't want to stay at the right spot to line up the links. The cam will want to spin. If it does spin around it will cause valve to piston. You will be putting valves in. I know from my dealership experience. I used two vice grips on the cam in two spots. 1 to hold it going one way and the other holding the other way. Allows some movement of the cam but not enough to hit pistons. I since have bought the tools.
I haven't dealt with too many tensioners. The early ones were better than the later design, impregnated gaskets.
I haven't dealt with too many tensioners. The early ones were better than the later design, impregnated gaskets.
Thanks for the reply. I'm pretty sure when the keyway is at 12oclock all the pistons are below TDC. None of the pistons are at the top. This allows you to remove the heads and install as well as move the cams and not worry about piston/valves contacting.
Because of that reason is why I posted. I'm assuming as long as the links on the chain match up to the cam gear marks and crank marks everything is timed right..correct?
You are correct. Slightly down from TDC. If the cam turns far enough to open the valve far enough. It will bend the valve stems. #1 and #6 will be up. The rest of the cylinders won't matter. I had a wrench slip out while doing the 1-4 side and bent the valve. Long time ago and lesson learned.


