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We occasionally had a squeaky brake pad, and it's hard to release the vehicle to the customer like that.
I found something similar to this and it worked very well.
Yeah, there is absolutely nothing good about using full ceramic pads on a truck jp.
Watch the brake dust if you go beating or grinding...I know, common sense but....
EBC has those yellows I believe..I'm not sure what's in the mix with greens anymore. If you must use a ceramic at least go with a hybrid. Even hybids didn't stop very well in ambient temps of 90-100 ime. That was with the gen 10 though and 6 or seven years ago. Some manufactures have modified the make up of their pads so you have to watch for that. Perhaps they have a better hybrid for truck brakes now...offer better stuff. Watch the ceramic content is all.
Ford replaced the brakes on the SD before I purchased. Wish I could tell yuh what pads they used because I like them, no dust and that thing has some stopping power.
Good Luck man.
Thank you Brew. Hopefully its sorted for now.
I would have taken any other option if it were available. I had the truck at the tire shop getting a rotation and noticed i was one hard brake away from having metal on metal and these were my only option in town. I did lube the clips while I was in there today too but if they squeak again I'll have another set ready to go.
I ran the green ebc pads on my black 10th gen and they performed well as far as I can remember. Might have to look at the yellows and see if they fit the bill.
My Buddy always did the concrete trick, and "briefly" ran a wire wheel over his rotors to get rid of the squeaks. They would glaze over periodically.... but I would have hit the reset button, personally.
We occasionally had a squeaky brake pad, and it's hard to release the vehicle to the customer like that.
I found something similar to this and it worked very well.
Damn getting old sucks...
Filter on my big fish tank kinda sucks, so I had an extra one on there so the water would be crystal clear.
The extra one died last week, and last night the air pump took a crap.
While messing around unplugging the cord I bump the filter and it makes a weird noise and stops.
I give it the ole Fonz love tap, and it starts working again.
Then I notice it's leaking.
I bought the set up used in 2016 and it has been trouble free, the aux. filter is almost 30 years old too.
I guess every thing has it's limit.
Got a new air pump and little wave maker coming from Amazon, but getting the 2 filters from Petco on-line.
They have a buy one get one 50% off, so I am getting 2 Fluval 307's
Hahahaha.... I'm gonna tease him about that. Thanks for the ammo, Noobs!
I've done a little testing with the T-Bird and Taurus fans, although it is a little on the "incomplete" side. Let me add a disclaimer - the T-Bird fan was straight off of a battery, and the Taurus was in the car, using the 3G alternator, so voltage would be higher.
The T-Bird fan results of air movement. The CFM calculation on high is 3137 cfm for the T-Bird fan on a battery. (1.677 cubic ft X 1871 ft/min). Voltage was 12.2 volts. It pulls 69 amps on startup on high.
I am getting cubic feet from measuring the fan at 17 inches, then subtracting the 6 inches for the center hub circumference. Seems logical to me?
The Taurus on high (no amperage rating, sorry) I get 2577 cfm. I get (1.349 cubic ft X 1910 ft/min). Voltage was probably 14.4 on this.
All clear. There is an "ever-so-slight" leak in the flex line that goes out to the garage. It measured .4%, and they don't consider it an emergency until 20%.
I would think ANY gas leak is an emergency no? Not just when its enough to blow?
I would think ANY gas leak is an emergency no? Not just when its enough to blow?
That's what I would have thought, but apparently there is an acceptable level. He also said that you can replace the end on a flex line, which I was not aware of.
I found a couple YT videos on it, but I think I'm gonna phone-a-friend on this one. While I have confidence that I can get it done, I don't have a sniffer to check afterwards.
