Thinking
#5131
No longer stuck in 2003
So far not as much, went to the basement this morning to hear the sump running constantly. Outlet seems to have frozen solid and when I lifted the lid the well was a sauna. Unplugged the sump and hope it hasn't burned out.
So yeah we were talking about lil' red again...........
So yeah we were talking about lil' red again...........
#5132
Senior Member
LOL... sometimes I have senior moments, and I'm in my early 40's.
#5133
Senior Member
Sure have been a lot of fuel pump questions lately. Anyone noticed that? LOL
#5135
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Besides fuel pumps, crazy things going on with the electronics, no heat. Damn, it's tough getting old (the trucks say that too).
#5136
Senior Member
Dang... We ran the gas fireplace tonight while we watched a movie, now it's hotter than hell up in here, lol. Wish I could send some of this to Brew's place...
#5137
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Brew has the Doc to keep him warm. He'll worry about the rest of the house later. LOL. At least I know I would.
#5138
Senior Member
#5139
Senior Member
Well, finally got to the bottom of my water freezing. It was both cold and hot lines freezing. I had to light up the basement to get a good visual first. I did this by fishing in track lighting through a small 3" through hole from the strage compartment. I fished in 6' of small but rigid track with little LED's. It lit it up well. Inside the trailer, I pulled the bedroom supply heat vent once again. This vent is 3" x 10". In order to see water line routing I had to use mirrors. It was a PITA, but this gave me look good enough everything and forwarded the ability to determine the problem.
A 5 or 6" section of cold and hot water lines were pinched between the frame and basement cover bottom. The cover is no more than a 1/4" sheet of rigid plastic attached to the frame. It's fastened to the frame every 24". This is a inefficient way to secure the bottom as the cover pulled away from the frame between fastening screws. Some areas or sections pulled away quit a bit. In these areas the manufacturer used a black spray foam insulation product to seal. So with the water lines sandwiched between the cover and frame, then covered with foam insulation, it looked normal when compared to the rest of the cover if you were looking under the trailer up at the bottom cover.
Now you should have a good idea why this wasn't easy to find....inappropriate could be said as far as workmanship BUT. This is also a problem for a fast paced production environment which revolves around employees being pushed to get the job done quickly vs putting in the extra time pointing out and handling any install defects along the way. I mean, how many companies such as this invoke an assembly engineer ? Yea right.
Regardless , -I'm learning what to look for with these things lol. Anyway, the floor in this trailer IS NOT R-30 and very far from it. It has a R-7 flooring deck which is un reflective. Un reflective means no vapor barrier worked into the insulation. However, they do use reflective under the tanks which is part of the reason they call it R-30 in their minds. I can go into detail on that of the why and how, but to get back to the initial problem this time, - the fix for now. -
Pulled the lines from bottom of the frame rail and raised them up about 9" closer to the bottom of the floor. That line section was frozen, but thawed quickly as this puts them in close relation to the heat duct. Most likley how it was suppose to be in the first place.
There's more work to do under there, but there's a good base to start from. Meaning it really won't take much to convert this thing to handle harsh environments. If I don't loose interest and sell it, -it'll be a sort of cool project. I can make it trustworthy anyway without a lot of cost involved. For now, a better vapor barrier then in addition a separate R-30 bat of insulation where for the mechanical chase-way underneath. The R30 will be modified with it's own barrier since theirs 9" of empty space. I'll still retain a 3" air gap which is sufficient for this space. The tank will get a better reflective product for now and since I have some left over from the windows...that stuff is pricey, but have extra and that's a good place for it.
I began remodeling a bit, but haven't done much because of the cold spell and the problems that came up during.
A 5 or 6" section of cold and hot water lines were pinched between the frame and basement cover bottom. The cover is no more than a 1/4" sheet of rigid plastic attached to the frame. It's fastened to the frame every 24". This is a inefficient way to secure the bottom as the cover pulled away from the frame between fastening screws. Some areas or sections pulled away quit a bit. In these areas the manufacturer used a black spray foam insulation product to seal. So with the water lines sandwiched between the cover and frame, then covered with foam insulation, it looked normal when compared to the rest of the cover if you were looking under the trailer up at the bottom cover.
Now you should have a good idea why this wasn't easy to find....inappropriate could be said as far as workmanship BUT. This is also a problem for a fast paced production environment which revolves around employees being pushed to get the job done quickly vs putting in the extra time pointing out and handling any install defects along the way. I mean, how many companies such as this invoke an assembly engineer ? Yea right.
Regardless , -I'm learning what to look for with these things lol. Anyway, the floor in this trailer IS NOT R-30 and very far from it. It has a R-7 flooring deck which is un reflective. Un reflective means no vapor barrier worked into the insulation. However, they do use reflective under the tanks which is part of the reason they call it R-30 in their minds. I can go into detail on that of the why and how, but to get back to the initial problem this time, - the fix for now. -
Pulled the lines from bottom of the frame rail and raised them up about 9" closer to the bottom of the floor. That line section was frozen, but thawed quickly as this puts them in close relation to the heat duct. Most likley how it was suppose to be in the first place.
There's more work to do under there, but there's a good base to start from. Meaning it really won't take much to convert this thing to handle harsh environments. If I don't loose interest and sell it, -it'll be a sort of cool project. I can make it trustworthy anyway without a lot of cost involved. For now, a better vapor barrier then in addition a separate R-30 bat of insulation where for the mechanical chase-way underneath. The R30 will be modified with it's own barrier since theirs 9" of empty space. I'll still retain a 3" air gap which is sufficient for this space. The tank will get a better reflective product for now and since I have some left over from the windows...that stuff is pricey, but have extra and that's a good place for it.
I began remodeling a bit, but haven't done much because of the cold spell and the problems that came up during.
#5140
Senior Member
I have asked her to come out here so we can talk about this....wow, was that ever the wrong thing to suggest.
Last edited by Jbrew; 01-07-2018 at 11:56 PM.