I run amsoil 5w 20 sig series with a wix filter. I gained 1 mpg when I switched. Also I recommend engine flush when switching it helps get all the deposits from the conventional. I switch it every 5k more if I don't do any towing and all easy driving. Last oil change I went 8k an it was still in good shape. On a side note fram filters suck all around I wouldn't run one on a generater and damn sure not on my 5.4

 

There really isn't a huge diff. Factory oil is all it needs. The 5w-30 motorcraft synthetic blend and a synthetic filter and your fine for 3-4,000 miles. I run mobile one and a good filter ( usually the higher quality fram, forget the name) but that's because I usually don't change my oil for 5-6,000 miles.

 

Not always the case. Do some research and you'll find many Group III oils can be marketed as synthetics. Just depends what base stocks are used in each particular oil. Nothing wrong with a good synthetic, blend, or conventional as long as you are getting a good ROI. With TBN retention/shearing/VI, it's fairly easy to see what oils are better base stocks in blends if it worries you that much.

Conventional in itself doesn't leave deposits, other conditions such as the PCV system and poor maintenance are larger culprits. I wouldn't recommend any type of solvents unless there is an issue. Most high boron/calcium add packs do enough to prevent build up. If you're concerned about every last spec of varnish then maybe, but just switching base stocks/add packs of oil isn't a reason in itself.

OP: use either oil with confidence and get a UOA if you want to check how it is holding up in your application. Just depends what your preferences are for VI, and add pack levels.

 

Mobil 1 and a Motorcraft FL-820S. The FL-500 will work too, just a smaller case. I like using the Motorcraft filters because its OEM and better quality than the Fram. I stay far away from Valvoline and other paraffin based oils.

 

Paraffin is a very misused term. In Chemistry, paraffinic = alkane... that is, a linear or branched (but not cyclic) hydrocarbon in which all the carbon molecules are completely 'saturated' with hydrogen atoms (no double or triple carbon-carbon bonds). Group III / III+ oils are highly paraffinic, meaning they contain very few unsaturations.

Group IV oils, conversely, are typically based upon n-alkenes, meaning they are linear hydrocarbons in which the first carbon atom and the second carbon atom in the chain contain a double bond (unsaturation), and the rest of the carbon atoms in the chain are 'saturated'.

Group III/III+ and Group IV oils each have their benefits as a base oil for lubrication, but both are vastly superior then the Grp. I and II oils of the past, which contained larger amounts of naphthenic and aromatic compounds. Even Mobil 1 can use Group III at times and is one of the biggest producers of that base oil for several companies. So you really aren't staying away from "paraffin" oils.

Hint: don't confuse 'paraffinic' with 'paraffin wax'. paraffin wax is a type of paraffinic compound, but not all paraffinic compounds are waxy solids. Nobody uses waxes. You have no fears as Valvoline is a solid oil just as many others are. I'm sure your feelings were based on old wives tales and not the chemistry behind it. This isn't 1960 anymore...

 

The reason I mentioned that is because I have had the privilege of assisting the heavy engine technician at the dealership I worked at replace several engines due to Valvoline oil use.

What you said makes since. Yet when a customer (a gentlemen in his mid 50's) and he says that he has had the oil changed done at Valvoline because they "guaranteed your engine to 300k" (or whatever their promise was). His engine 5.4L 3 valve. Was knocking on the upper end. We told him he would need a long block (after rigorous diagnosis). He stated that he had been to Valvoline for the time that he has owned the truck and always changed the oil on an 5k mile basis. Valvoline would not pay for his repair because be didn't have all his receipts (valid reason).

Upon tear down, the oil passages in the head were plugged. Thus starving the rollers and cams for oil.

I have several other instances of Valvoline oil use and engine problems. This next one will be short.

Another tech told me why he runs Mobil 1. When he was at Ford engine school (several years ago). They had an engine that was running rough, noisy mainly. (It's been a while since be told me, anyway...) they drained the oil and filled with Mobil 1, engine ran smoother and they continued their diagnosis. Before lunch they drained the engine again, this time they didn't shut it off. The class went to lunch and when they arrived back the engine was running fine.

Now this may be a stretch of a story, but I took it for what it was worth, an experienced technician telling me what he had experienced during his schooling and working at the dealership.

To the person who began this thread: run a oil that makes you and your wallet comfortable, change it on a religious basis and use a quality filter. Lastly: HAVE FUN!