Long bolts with loctite are the worst. They're like kryptonite for impacts.

I know it's too late but... Heat softens up the loctite. A propane torch is good enough. Probably even a torch lighter if you're patient enough.

 

I got it. Not exactly easy but 100X easier than that idiotic cutting idea. I had to drop the idler arm from the two bolts to reengage the ball joint, and it took a bunch of little steering wheel tweaks to get the socket on and off, but I even managed to retorque the shaft nut. I had to first wind the nut up with a pipe on an adjustable to get clearance.
@raysorenson :



Now I just need to finish greasing everything but that's gonna hafta wait for tomorrow. I tried greasing a few places that were easily accessible and I hate this grease gun already. Seems to push more grease around the fittings than into them and I have to push like hell or nothing goes in at all. Still looking for recommendations there.

 

What grease gun are you using?

I went with the Lincoln 1134 and put the LockNLube tip on it. Then I had to order the LockNLube 90 degree adapter tip, because I couldn't get the dang thing on my new tie rod end zerk after installation. It just now occurred as I was typing this that I should just switch out the zerks to right angle, DOH!

 

Some Chinese POS off of Amazon. It leaks from everywhere and I tightened the tip with friggin wrenches and it still pushed grease past the zerk. I'll look at a Lincoln.

Which tie rod end couldn't you reach? I thought I got them all but maybe I didn't hit the passenger inner yet.

 

Passenger outer, just because the brake shield was in the way.

 

Just give it a twist.

 

Good call on the Lincoln, @MikeVB . Works great.
Everything's greased and I'm off for alignment tomorrow.

 

To wrap this up, I installed everything listed above and also the following Moog parts:

1. Idler arm: K8739T
2. Inner tie rod ends: ES3369T (L) ES3370T (R)
3. Outer tie rod ends: ES3366T (L) ES3367T (R)
4. Tie rod adjustment sleeves: ES3368T
5. Ultra-Power K8740 alignment cams

I used the following special tools:

1. 1-5/16” shallow socket (pitman arm) – 33mm is probably the better choice
2. Puller and Press loaner sets from Advance (these worked beautifully)
3. 35mm deep impact socket
4. Lincoln 1133 grease gun w/Lucas marine grease (recommended by Moog)

I used these instructional videos in addition to the factory Ford manual and Moog instruction sheets:

1. UCA
   You Tube
2. LBJ1
   You Tube
3. LBJ2
   You Tube

Tips and suggestions:

1. I do not recommend, in any way, shape, or form, the method of cutting the Pitman arm to release. Remove the three mounting bolts (you might want to use heat if they are really stuck; otherwise you’ll need to run them almost the whole way with a pipe on a breaker bar), turn it to the side, hold it up with a jack and a board, and use the puller. It will take a fraction of the time and effort!
2. Do not buy a “rexbeti” grease gun off of Amazon (or any of the dozens of other brands that look just like it). Total crap!
3. No torsion bar adjustments were necessary.
4. You have to jack up the LCAs well beyond the point at which the frame lifts off the jackstand. Keep lifting – it will keep rising.
5. I only bought the tie rod sleeves so I could build complete tie rod replacements and preset them to the rough lengths as the ones I removed. There’s probably no reason for these, really, because it would have been just as easy to measure the originals, take them apart, and set the new ones to the measured length on the old sleeves. The inners are reverse threaded.

After 4-wheel alignment, the truck drives much nicer, although as usual, the f*&^ing steering wheel is crooked, despite me begging them to ensure it was straight. Thank you to all who helped me with this project, especially @raysorenson for the brilliant tip on the Pitman arm!

 

Congrats on the completed project.

I'm still waiting on my UCA, ball joints, and pitman and idler arm to arrive. I lay awake dreading the pitman arm portion. My tie rods were the only parts obviously bad, but I'm going to go ahead and do the other things as well.

Where do you apply heat to remove those steering box bolts? The head only?

I removed and replaced my tie rods as complete units, also. I lay the new parts beside the old and adjusted them to be an exact match. Then after I had the new rods installed I backed the truck out in the driveway and noticed the left tire was wonky. I got out the old units and some "alignment" shop dipsh*t had the left rod adjusted an inch shorter than the right one. I realize they won't be identical, but should be closer than that. The left tire was toed in 7/8". After doing a rough alignment and a powering steering fluid flush my test drive around the neighborhood was like I'd taken 10 years off the truck's life.

If I could find replacement parts for the interior and window belts and weatherstripping I'd be happy keeping it another 19 years. But my door panels are powdery and brittle and the tan finish is flaking off my dash. And I'm pretty sure the heater core is stopped up and the blend door is broken.

 

The heat should be applied at the female threads in the steering gear to soften the loctite. Keep in mind that this is a steering gear you'll be heating which is full of fluid and plastic and rubber parts and there's the plastic spacer between the gear and the frame. Also this may not be needed it just depends on how much of a fight the loctite puts up.