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It's a relatively inexpensive Pioneer http://www.crutchfield.com/S-uqVVJVq...-GM-A5602.html Pioneer is one of the few (non high end manufacturers) who state true RMS output and not some BS peak number that an amp couldn't hit downhill with the wind for more than .000001 seconds. Lot of bang for the buck. Just noticed Walmart has it on sale for $111, that's a TON of amp for that money.
And it fits PERFECTLY under the passenger seat. If it was 1/4" bigger in any direction it wouldn't fit.
Yeah, you CAN build it cheaper, but given the time it takes you, the question is would you want too? Most dont. Without the right tools it becomes a moot point. I built speaker boxes for a few people when I was in high school.
My single box cost me $12 for a 2x4 piece of 3/4 MDF, $3 for glue, $5 for gold plated connectors, and $10 for tan carpet that sorta goes with truck instead of gray. Total of $30. I could have bought one for same price.
But, it would have been made from 1/2 or 5/8" MDF, not glued as well, have gray carpet, maybe not gold connectors, and not be optimized for my subwoofer volume, or needed clearance in front of , or behind pole vent. When my seat is lowered and clicks into place, a bar on underside of seat pushes the sub box into the floor, locking it in place tightly due to pressure and velcro on rear of box.
Some premade boxes perform poorly because , especially in downfiring position, the subs are too close to floor, or even impact on it. Some are sold with clearance of 1.25" at one edge, and less in rear. That isnt enough to let subs perform usually. There is much more room in front of sub in upfiring position under seat, but there is a bar there that they can impact of .
I built my own too. I didnt like that the prefab boxes were built with 5/8" MDF. Ill edit in some pics later. I already had 2 Audiobahn 10"s that have a 5" mounting depth so I didnt want to mess around with them not fitting a prefab box. I also have Alpine 5x7s in the doors and a Poineer DVD source unit.
Sorry about the large pics. I used spray on bedliner for the box. Grey carpet wouldve matched nicely. :l
Edit- added pics
Last edited by Heavy_Metal; Feb 4, 2016 at 04:01 PM.
I have a friend who is dying to get my subs that I have now, but he's laid off from an oil field job right now and has a baby in the way so his cash is tight. I spent about $350 on the subs 4 months ago. He wants to trade me a PS4 with two controllers, 4 games, and all the original packaging. I already have a PS4, so I would just trade to sell it. Would I get most of my money back?
I've also decided that I'm going to go with the box mentioned above and get 2 Sundown SD-2 10's. They'll run me about $400, but if you know car audio, you know sundown is one of the most sought after brands out there. I'll continue to use my budget Hifonics amp for now, and the subs should see about 600rms each.
I've always had ported boxes, and I've never had a prefab, so I guess we'll see how this goes. In just excited to get the dinosaur box out of my center console location although it may be difficult because I put it together inside the truck :/
I like Sundown, but they arent the best for sound quality and they are very power hungry. It takes a lot of work to get them to sound great. I would definitely build a specific box to get the most out of them.
I like Sundown, but they arent the best for sound quality and they are very power hungry. It takes a lot of work to get them to sound great. I would definitely build a specific box to get the most out of them.
I have to agree. They pack a punch but they need BIG hp to do it (83db sensitivity is scary inefficient). The good news is they don't need much space. The bad news? You'll need that space for a monster amp!
I have to agree. They pack a punch but they need BIG hp to do it (83db sensitivity is scary inefficient). The good news is they don't need much space. The bad news? You'll need that space for a monster amp!
I could see needing a monster amp for their Z series or a moderate amp for their SA's, but not for the E series or SD's. Also, I understand the subs themselves have some efficiency, but the majority of power consumption or lack of will be from the amp. With a 2000 watt amp that does rated power and is moderately efficient, they should do fine.
Simple facts, it will take twice the power to make same loudness with an 83db rated speaker, as an 86db
4x the power to make the same sound level with an 83 as an 89
and 8x the power to make the same sound level with an 83 as a 92
So, a 92 rated speaker makes the same sound with 100watts, than 83 does with 800.
If an amp is really 400 per channel RMS, and that equates to more like ....50 watts on an efficient woofer. Not impressive SPL at all.
Back in the good old days, speakers were more efficient than today. Sound quality was better. Electronics quality was better.
Then amps from china got cheap, and people didnt care about sound quality or efficiency, they just wanted to go boom boom with ported boxes listening to trunk rattling ghetto rap as cheaply as possible.
It takes a sealed box, a good efficient woofer, an amp with high damping factor, and big speaker wires to give you loud, tight, accurate bass. The wires are more important than the amp in the systems damping factor. Of course, some types of music dont require accurate bass, just ...noise.
I could see needing a monster amp for their Z series or a moderate amp for their SA's, but not for the E series or SD's. Also, I understand the subs themselves have some efficiency, but the majority of power consumption or lack of will be from the amp. With a 2000 watt amp that does rated power and is moderately efficient, they should do fine.
I quoted you the sensitivity from the SD series so yea, it is that low.
With that said a 2,000watt RMS amp (that's accurately rated) is BIG (and expensive)! That would be plenty to compensate for the low efficiency of the Sundowns but I don't think that's the right move. What we were trying to say is you could get better output from a more efficient set of drivers with half that power. Saving space, wiring needs, the need for a capacitor, alternator load and most importantly your cash.