Subwoofer Setups?
It came with a 95 or 130. I've been told that if your truck has the heavy duty cooling package, it's a shoe in for having the bigger 130 amp. The case on the 95 amp is 5 1/8", and the 130 amp case is 5 5/8".
As far as I know 55w is 55w unless it's being drawn at a different voltage. I could be wrong but I think hids operate at more than 12 volt, or it at least takes more than 12volts to fire them because there is high voltage warnings all over the Ignitors. I'm not sure what the stock bulbs draw tho. I would assume the low beams were 55w. Do you have any problems with your truck wanting to die because of the sub and efans? I know mine drops about 150 rpm when the fans come on but then it goes back up. I would just be afraid of the sub hitting at the same time the fan comes on and the truck dieing. Either way I'm gonna look into a higher current alt. I found a few high current ones on eBay for decent prices
Honestly I notice the drop more when im just sitting in traffic in broad daylight. Lol the amp really doesn't draw that much. I run a 250 watt rms mono fockford to a single ten. You dont need 1000 watts to sound good. I would probably have gone with eights but I got a great deal on my sub used that someone traded up for a twelve.
Originally Posted by 2thousand5.4
As far as I know 55w is 55w unless it's being drawn at a different voltage. I could be wrong but I think hids operate at more than 12 volt, or it at least takes more than 12volts to fire them because there is high voltage warnings all over the Ignitors. I'm not sure what the stock bulbs draw tho. I would assume the low beams were 55w. Do you have any problems with your truck wanting to die because of the sub and efans? I know mine drops about 150 rpm when the fans come on but then it goes back up. I would just be afraid of the sub hitting at the same time the fan comes on and the truck dieing. Either way I'm gonna look into a higher current alt. I found a few high current ones on eBay for decent prices
Actually, multiple experiments have been done to prove that capacitors don't help out. They're basically a paper weight that can read voltage. Honestly, they're no different from a stinger volt meter. To really not worry about electrical systems, you either need a bigger battery under the hood (Optima Red Top or XS Power), and additional battery in the rear, or a bigger alternator. Any other "electrical" upgrade that anyone recommends is just a blatant lie. If you run a cap, your best bet would be to sell it and you won't notice any change. Get a colt meter and runs a test yourself. Do one test playing a 40hz test tone with the cap and unhook the cap and do the same thing. Play it for 3/5 seconds at full tilt and your results will be damn near equal.
Money is much better spent on:
-upgrading the big 3, do this first
-upgrading the battery under the hood to the biggest AGM you can fit in the battery tray, do this second
-then look into buying a high output alternator or adding batteries to your battery bank, do this third
waste of money. Money is much better spent on: -upgrading the big 3, do this first -upgrading the battery under the hood to the biggest AGM you can fit in the battery tray, do this second -then look into buying a high output alternator or adding batteries to your battery bank, do this third
waste of money.
Money is much better spent on:
-upgrading the big 3, do this first
-upgrading the battery under the hood to the biggest AGM you can fit in the battery tray, do this second
-then look into buying a high output alternator or adding batteries to your battery bank, do this third
Money is much better spent on:
-upgrading the big 3, do this first
-upgrading the battery under the hood to the biggest AGM you can fit in the battery tray, do this second
-then look into buying a high output alternator or adding batteries to your battery bank, do this third
Also what are yall doing to keep your battery terminals uncluttered? I realize most of yall just have one power wire going to it from the amp, but I know some of yall have more than that that needs to be directly connected to the battery. I already have one 6 gauge wire coming off from it for my aux fuse box and the two 10 gauge wires coming off of it for the fans. The fans draw to much current to connect into my aux fuse box so I have 3 wires coming off the +. Not including the stock stuff. Adding a 4th wire would make it look even worse. I may add a 2nd fuse box that's rated for a higher current. How do you guys keep everything looking clean?








