I've turn on A/C recently I've notice an annoying squeaking noise whenever my A/C Compressor is engaged. I've recently replaced the belt and the tensioner but the squeaky noise still exists. I've been thinking that it could be the Clutch bearing, but I wanted some of your opinions of what the cause could be before I go spend a whack of money. Thanks guys!

P.S:

This isn't my video, but it's almost exactly what my Compressor does/sounds like:

 

The Clutch Hub is wobbling. Looks like your Power Steering Pulley is not aligned. If I'm not mistaken the Bearing only works when the A/C is off

 

Unless the clutch is slipping and you can see it, I would learn to love the squeak and crank up the radio.

Changing the Clutch is not the worst job to do and they are not expensive.

 

Hopefully it is the clutch and not the main shaft bearings on the compressor. Just multiplied the cost exponentially.

 

Yes it is, just replaced my compressor, accumulator or dryer (dryer to me) and a hose.

That is a PITA job thanks to how you have to get to the compressor.

Regards,

Paul

 

I've decided to bite the bullet and just buy a compressor. Do I have to replace the dryer as well, or could I just swap the two compressors.

 

If you don't have access to an A/C vacuum pump, nitrogen and a set of gauges, take it to a shop.

Yes, you need to replace the compressor, accumulator(dryer) as well as the orifice tube. Most manufacturers will not warranty the new compressor if you don't purchase these three items.
Preload the compressor with the recommended oil & turn by hand a couple turns.
You then need to purge the system with nitrogen. This cleans out the system with a dry gas that will not affect the hygroscopic oil.
Next, vacuum the system down to >3 microns & hold for a minimum of 45 minutes. This ensures all atmospheric air has been vacated and the system is sealed.
Now your ready to add the new freon to an acceptable level. Usually, the sticker under the hood will have the system capacity printed. Remember that pressure will increase with elevated ambient air temps. So your final pressure will depend on how hot it is outside.

Now your ready to crank that bad boy up! If all went well, system is properly cycling and you've got some nice, cold air blowing in your face.

 

You want to do this right and you will change the dryer. To really do it right you are going to flush out the system with a good cleaner and blow it out. Also you want to replace the orifice while you are doing a flush. The goal is to remove any old oil and debris out of the system. You will also need a oring kit, and a can of Pag 46 oil. I recommend the UV stuff, makes finding a leak a lost faster later in time. You look at the amount of coolant your system holds in lbs and add 3.2 oz of Pag for each 16 oz of coolant to the low pressure side of the compressor. That is the side is the closest to the block. The compressor on my 2002 took 7 ounces. After you fill it up, put the seal that comes with it back on until you get it firmly in place. You will have oil pouring out if you forget this.

You will find that jacking up the left hand side tire and removing it will make things go much faster. You are going to have to remove the electrical block to get to the top of the dryer top connection. Do NOT reconnect that connector and leave it out where you can reach it since that is the low pressure with and you will need to add a jumper when you start doing the refill. TAKE PICTURES before you take things loose. A lot easier to look at how is used to look later.

You are going to need a good 10 mm racketing wrench to get the compressor bolts out and some safety glasses. I got a face full of fine dust taking the first nut loose and went and grabbed a pair. Take your time and be careful those nuts are very long and you can round off a head real easy.

I guess I am old school but I just flush all the lines, replace all the o-rings, install the compressor filled with oil, and after getting all of the system hooked up, replace the dryer last. You want to keep the dessicant open for as short as a time as possible is why that is the very last thing you hook up. After you get it all snugged up, i hook up my compressor and pull a vacuum. Close off the gauge valves and turn off the compressor. The system should hold the vacuum, if not you have a leak someplace. If it holds the vacuum, open both the valves on the gauge and do at least a 2 hour vacuum, I have let them run over night. That will get the system dry and you are good to fill and chill.

You jumper the low pressure switch, crank the engine, and slowly start adding coolant. Do not just open the valve wide open, you can blow a seal in the compressor and get to have all this fun all over again. I keep it under 50 on the low pressure side doing a fill. After you get about half way into the 2nd can you will feel the cold air. Three cans will get ice cold air.

Good luck and get your cold on.

Regards,

Paul