I'm in a similar situation. So far I've replaced my battery saver relay in hopes that would remedy the annoyance of a constantly dying battery. My batter is a few years old Optima red top, so I've eliminated the battery from the problem. I was using my multimeter to check for battery power and parasitic draw when I noticed that something is pulling between 12-13 amps when the truck is turned off. So I started pulling relays/fuses under the hood in the driver side fuse box. When I pulled relay 304 the amp reading dropped down to 0.30, but after a few minutes it went back up to 12+ amps. I'm slowing going through the rest of the fuses to see what else I may find.

The vehicle in question is a '99 F150 Lariat.

Anyone ever played this game with pulling fuses to locate a parasitic draw? Had any success with it?

 

Ok here is some free diag guys. First charge the battery to no less than 12.8 volts an load test it- preferably with a digital tester or have it professionally tested wherever. Then make sure the cables are tight and corrosion free. Test the alternator with the high beams and blower on- less than 13.6 volts? FAIL. Now this part is critical- 0.3 amps is acceptable draw. Clamp a lead to the positive terminal of the battery and disconnect the cable. Clamp the other lead to the cable. Essentially you are completing the circut with the voltmeter. Walk away for no less than 10 minutes! Now you can watch as you pull FUSES to see where your draw is. Make sure the voltmeter is set for amps. Relays will not cause a draw as they are only energized when something is happening. Check a blown interior bulb, power window/ lock switch, power seat button. This is most common.
Good luck!

 

My battery was draining cause of the brake kick back switch for the cruise control they had a recall on them they constantly have power going to them I had to unplug mine it started to catch fire

 

When my battery died (actually ended up being alternator) but any way my gauges when hay wire my abs and CEL light came on it made the truck act really weird soo battery? Just my 02.

 

Yea alternators can make them do funky stuff sometimes

 

Thank you. Did this with a battery charger that has a storage mode.

I did this as well; my terminals are always coated in battery grease.

I will do this tonight.

I did this on the negative lead to avoid frying anything. I did not walk away for 10 minutes, so I will have to try that. Is this to make sure all timed components have stopped drawing power?

I haven't spent much time with my generic multimeter from Harbor Freight, but have managed to test electronics in the past with acceptable readings. I'm ASSuming that I'm using it correctly.

Good info, thanks again. I do have a passenger window motor that isn't presently working. If I pull the door panel off and tap the window regulator with the side of a small hammer while pressing the window switch it will "break free" and work for a few days at best.

 

The window motor should not be it. The multimeter should have at least 3 holes for the leads. one for the ground, one for volts, ohms, and continuity. The other should be for amps. The 10 minutes are to ensure all the control modules have gone into a low power "sleep" mode.

 

My 02 lariat had the same issue when I left it sitting for a while. What mine came down to being was I used to leave my headlights turned to auto off. When I started turning off manually I no longer have the issue.

Rus

 

Ya I never use my auto head light feature because I have heard of them staying on and draining the battery.

 

Finally got my drain fixed on my 2004 F150 STX and it turned out to be the factory CD changer. I was so frustrated I took it to the dealer to find the drain. I also seen others mention it in these forums. Even though the radio was turned off the CD changer was running some continuous scan. The dealer pulled fuse #31 and sure enough the drain was gone. I bought a aftermarket radio and now all is fixed. Whew....that was a pain the the azz!