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Yeah I'm into it now. Bed off. Door off. Fender off. Rocker and cab corner cut out. Man I hope I can remember how this sucker goes back together.
Don't worry about the forum. They will iron out the kinks I'm sure.
So I've had this little exhaust leak for a little while. It sounds just like it did when my passenger side manifold was rusted out. So I decided since I've already got the fender out for the rocker panel I might as well change the manifold on the drivers side. Turns out the manifold is rusted but not all the way through. It is the EGR tube. The fitting that connects it to the manifold is completely rusted away to dust. Good times. This side turned out to be quite a bit easier than the other. Got out the manifold and all the studs. Only had to cut the nuts off of 3 studs.
The panels are going in ok. Weld and grind and weld and grind etc.
Looks great! Remember, you want to use flap discs as little as possible. They heat up the metal quickly. You won't have to worry about warping here, - flaps can lighten body metal up to 4 gauge in thickness and metallurgic properties . structure integrity ...how ever you think of it. stuff quickly. It's like they cook it away. Hell I new that going in to many body repairs in the past....Too many advantages to flap, still prep with them, but use on the best tools in the trade...The Makita variable speed. Didn't think that grinder would last...variable speed which is all kind of bad , very hard on the motors in those things...That was 10 years ago, won't do body/patch panels without one now. I got into taping patch panels now as well, copper or similiar bakers. I don't know about most, never had the patience to stagger welds too much. Anyway, they have a variety of backers today, you won't need them for rock boxes and drops if need be. they also help seal the weld beautifully on the flip side vs the blow hole. I've used up 1/4" backrers, -if there's a lot to button up,...you can fly right thru a custom job...put some distance between cool down cycles.
Funny you mention the manifold leak, I just had two leaks hit at once...could be a worked out plug on #3 or 4...doubt that, but it's possible. Breaking down and purchasing another mandrel cross-over, I've repaired it 3 times, always rusts in another spot. I'll use a grade of stainless bending this one up. For the leak up top, I'm going to have to do some disassembly...but's it the pass side rear corner area. Too much crap in the way for proper diag at this time. Worst case I have an old set of Kooks, older Stang version I can throw at her.. Yea the sudden, truck needs work...do or die I guess.... Yea, all the sudden...like it didn't know this way comming lol. It's been too quite for the last a few years lol... Have fun!
That's some good advice. Where I butt welded the old metal to the new panel on the cab corner, the old metal started thinning out wicked fast. The backers would have been a good idea. Next time
Yeah man. Tis the season for rust repair all around.
Yea, have to have something solid to weld to, preferably the same thickness or gauge. Technique is earned with time, to this day I don't know of ANY good body welding instructional worth a spit. Well, there might be some now, I haven't had a reason to search it out for some time. There's always been exemplary guidelines for say 1/8 and above, but they don't apply to auto body...it's almost night and day in comparison. You can weld in backers to thicken the thin stuff or use a copper/brass spoon for spotting. A backer plate, if permanent needs to be sealed on the backside, totally OX free...best way to seal those is with 3M's panel bond (kick *** stuff,-pricey!) The trick with this stuff is learning enough to make the fix last...no small feat!
To assist with what your doing, don't worry about flap disking completely smooth, it's a common mistake. Actually, it's better to grind vs flap. Heat generated warps in a different way, it WILL washboard without realizing, (little 1/2" ups and downs). This will thin the repair area as you go and it's where most run into trouble. Keep in mind, -minimal grinding, as little as possible...make it perfect with a little filler, even if you have to build it a little...This way the repair will last more than 2 or 3 years lol. The filler is not going to give out....the metal will if integrity is compromised during the repair.
