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1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

Rolled off the corners of a spark plug. Now what.

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Old 03-15-2017, 04:36 PM
  #11  
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In some cases a metric socket may be just a bit smaller and will take up the missing corners-
Admittedly, this is a last ditch option.
Good luck!
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escodsm (03-15-2017)
Old 03-15-2017, 04:48 PM
  #12  
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Do you have any Kroil? That will work much better than WD-40.
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Boostking
Any way you can take a picture down the tube and see if there is any damage to the head?
I thought about this and I should have done it just for this thread.
But I need the truck tomorrow so I angrily put everything back together and went around the block. Figures, not a single issue. No low idle, no stalling out, full power.

My reasoning for doing the one plug - is that I think all 8 are original, and the power drop that happens intermittently I am thinking could be the #7 plug electrode worn right down to nothing causing it? I just wanted to see if it produced any results - but the joke is on me!

This is my punishment for 25+ years of owning and working on imports I think, haha.

Trust me, the head of this plug is F*ked. I almost hammered a 9/16 on it but was fearful of making it even worse.

GET THIS - The 5/8 socket I just bought - got stuck on the plug....had to clamp on some vise grips, and use a long breaker bar to get it out of the hole!
Now this is counter-intuitive! IF it's gripping so tight that the socket is stuck....how the hell is it not turning out?

Last edited by escodsm; 03-15-2017 at 06:57 PM. Reason: two more sentences
Old 03-15-2017, 07:39 PM
  #14  
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Just throwing it out there, removing the intake manifold changes the spark plug game. It's a pita, yes but from the sounds of your issues it may be worth it.

Better view...
More leverage...
Better use of tools...
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escodsm (03-15-2017)
Old 03-15-2017, 08:54 PM
  #15  
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One other idea would be to try and break it loose when the motor is warm. Don't extract it all the way (at least, I wouldn't) but at least try and crack it loose.
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escodsm (03-16-2017)
Old 03-15-2017, 10:40 PM
  #16  
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Another last ditch option is to take that sears socket you don't care about and pack in some jb weld (NOT A TON, just enough to fill the gap between the plug threads and the socket) and let it harden a full 24hrs (or maybe a bit longer since its been cold (and friggen snowy)).

Just know this, if you put too much jb weld on there and it fuses to the head on you will have a new problem that will be worse than your current issue
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Old 03-15-2017, 10:47 PM
  #17  
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Well, first thing I would do..........

Is take spark plug socket....

And grind end FLAT. Must keep square too.

If you look, the first 1/8" dont even contact due to shape.

I havent had this problem on spark plug, but have on a few others, mostly small stuff, and it works to put socket on enough good metal. Depends on if the spark plug flats are flush or elevated a tad though

Flange bolts with low heads usually benefit from this, flanged hex head cap screws

Last edited by mbb; 03-15-2017 at 11:01 PM.
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escodsm (03-16-2017)
Old 03-16-2017, 06:41 AM
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All excellent ideas thank you.

Anyone ever work with one of those Irwin Bolt-Grip sockets?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/i...001/22980117-P
Old 03-16-2017, 09:31 AM
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I don't have experience with those specifically, but I have a similar set made by Craftsman. I will tell you that it had enough grip to grab onto a round head bolt... and enough grip that I busted the bolt (for the tailgate cable). I wish I had heard of Kroil when I tackled this job... would have been much easier.


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Old 03-16-2017, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by steve cordeiro
All excellent ideas thank you.

Anyone ever work with one of those Irwin Bolt-Grip sockets?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/i...001/22980117-P
I have used some similar but I believe they were maco brand. Work well.
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