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Rebuild :/

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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 01:29 PM
  #1  
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Default Rebuild :/

So I just got back from my buddies shop.

He diagnosed my truck for me and found 20 psi in cyl #7. Explains the misfire that wont go away. Along with that he bore scoped it to find damage to the piston in that cylinder as well.

Now Im looking at piston/ring combos to get put in it so I can get it back on the road and am finding everyone wants 500+ for CAST pistons. NOT HAPPENING!!!!

Anyone happen to find a decent deal on some that arent going to kill my pocketbook? This is a work truck so I am NOT going to put a crap ton of money into it.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 05:35 PM
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Depending on the overbore I went with icon forged with total seal rings. Also used mmr rods with arp 2000 bolts, arp mains, arp studs all together with me doing the work and doing a pi swap it was 2500. The pistons were like 400 iirc.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Venomized
So I just got back from my buddies shop.

He diagnosed my truck for me and found 20 psi in cyl #7. Explains the misfire that wont go away. Along with that he bore scoped it to find damage to the piston in that cylinder as well.

Now Im looking at piston/ring combos to get put in it so I can get it back on the road and am finding everyone wants 500+ for CAST pistons. NOT HAPPENING!!!!

Anyone happen to find a decent deal on some that arent going to kill my pocketbook? This is a work truck so I am NOT going to put a crap ton of money into it.
$500 dollars for a set of eight pistons is about the right price for pistons, your not going to get any cheaper, it might be cheaper to see if you could find a used engine, but then, you won't know the history behind the engine and it could just as easily break.

So here are your options:
1. Spend the money to fix the engine. (Best option IMHO)
2. Find a used engine. (Not the best IMHO)
3. Replace the truck.

Your just going to have to suck it up, trucks aren't cheap to work on, especially when they have a V8. Just for pistons alone, 500 isn't that bad.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 06:51 PM
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Im just going to order pistons and rings separate. I found everything for right around 300. Im going to do the work myself.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Venomized
Im just going to order pistons and rings separate. I found everything for right around 300. Im going to do the work myself.
Not bad, mind sharing where you found these?

Since your just replacing the pistons and rings, your going to need to replace a few things while your at it.

1. Head Gaskets
2. Oil Pan Gasket
3. And if you want, replace the journal bearings and conrod bearings. I highly recommend inspecting the parts when you start your partial tear down.

How well was the engine taken care of?
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 07:05 PM
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Haha I have built SEVERAL motors.

Im going to clean and ball hone the cylinders and check the bearings as well.

As far as gaskets go, I am replacing all of them (oil pan, head, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and valve covers)
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Venomized
Haha I have built SEVERAL motors.

Im going to clean and ball hone the cylinders and check the bearings as well.

As far as gaskets go, I am replacing all of them (oil pan, head, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and valve covers)
Didn't know your experience level.

Well sounds like a full rebuild with some exceptions. Have fun.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 08:19 PM
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Yea it may go deeper into rebuild but it will come with the complete teardown. There are alot of things I need to consider and one of them is that everything in the motor has 209k miles on it already so it may be wiser for me to go ahead and just go .010" over to clean everything up and have the deck planed. I need to get it out and do a full inspection on it before I say for sure what exactly Im going to do.

Oh and no problem on the level. I dont talk about it alot.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 08:36 PM
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From my experience @ 209k you woll be looking at going closer to .030" over
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 08:43 PM
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What does IMHO mean jw lol
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