Quick wiring question
98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: MI
Wasn't expecting that kind of a response, anyways It's spelled Rigid not Ridgid, and if you don't know this brand I can't really help you.
Either way they have dually and dually D2 which is essentially a brighter version. Long story short: is it possible to splice those lights to my KCs (and no they are not daylighters they are Pro sport hid) What I'm trying to say is that i want to cut the harness after the deutsch connectors with few feet of positive and negative wires left and splice those wires into my existing wiring
Either way they have dually and dually D2 which is essentially a brighter version. Long story short: is it possible to splice those lights to my KCs (and no they are not daylighters they are Pro sport hid) What I'm trying to say is that i want to cut the harness after the deutsch connectors with few feet of positive and negative wires left and splice those wires into my existing wiring
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Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Alberta
Def wouldn't straight wire them. You will burn up at 16-18 gauge if these are high output.
I have a relay here that you need, with some extra wire if you want it. Just make 5 connections and do it the right way.
You would prolly over lead that relay. Most are rated from 25-30 amps continues duty
I have a relay here that you need, with some extra wire if you want it. Just make 5 connections and do it the right way.
You would prolly over lead that relay. Most are rated from 25-30 amps continues duty
Hmm, let me take a look at what i have. I have a 40amp relay for the KCs i couldn't find the current draw from KCs all i know is that they are 35W and rigid lights are 2.5amp draw each and 34.5 W each according to KCs website, i can run 4 KC lights on that relay for total of 265W so technically i shouldn't have a problem with "straight wiring" them.
Just realize when those HID ballast first come on they can pull 15-20 amps for "heat up" . Thats over the max amp draw rating on 18 gauge, and 2 amps short of 16gauge max current. Add in the others, and you are pushing the limits. This is assuming the wires meet AWG standars, which usually isnt the case.
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Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Alberta
Also, ibd, if my previous post changed your mind regarding the possibility of successfully "straight wiring" those lights, what would you recommend as the best splicing method? I was thinking of splice connectors, but if there is anything better i might as well go that road.
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From: Alberta
If they were halogens I would really be worried about it, but you might get away with it. Didn't read the LED part.
Just realize when those HID ballast first come on they can pull 15-20 amps for "heat up" . Thats over the max amp draw rating on 18 gauge, and 2 amps short of 16gauge max current. Add in the others, and you are pushing the limits. This is assuming the wires meet AWG standars, which usually isnt the case.
Just realize when those HID ballast first come on they can pull 15-20 amps for "heat up" . Thats over the max amp draw rating on 18 gauge, and 2 amps short of 16gauge max current. Add in the others, and you are pushing the limits. This is assuming the wires meet AWG standars, which usually isnt the case.
EDIT** Yeah it's 18 AWG
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From: Alberta
OR
Completely different way of setting it up, somehow connecting the two harnesses (all it is is inline fuse with positive and negative ends for the battery and 3 ends to control the switch) together and just running them on a separate switch. Honestly that would be a safer way of doing it since i can cut part of the harness off from one light and splice it to the other light. What do you think?
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Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Alberta