Pretty severe rust damage
He only posted one option because there is only one option to doing what the OP asked and that is to STOP the rust. Using bondo, foam, fiberglass and all that BS to cover it up will not stop the rust and in most cases will quicken the spread of it. The only way to stop rust is to completely cut it out down to clean steel and weld in new panels. When it comes to rust repair cutting corners will often times make the problem worse when the rust re- appears months later. (which will happen)
Friend of yours?
No, there really arent any other ways around fixing and stopping rust. If you know of a better, quicker, more effective, cheaper way to do it please enlighten us. No Im not a friend of his but body work is something Im a little familiar with so I know that he speaks the truth.
Cut or grind the rust back to metal and Fiberglas it. I haven't seen any fiberglass rusting after the job was done right. People have been fiber glassing for decades . The main thing is to get rid of all the rust or you are wasting your time. Filling that voided area with fiberglass or more metal really does not make a difference. Weather this is better or quicker is up to the person doing the job.
Once I realized how easy it was, the second side was a breeze.
And yes, my only body work experience was my old Jeep CJ, 20 years ago. I cut the rust out with snips, and pop riveted stop and yield signs in as patch panels. Rattle canned it with Rustolium and took it out in the woods and beat it around.
And Pickuprule...
I never said cutting out the rust out and replacing it with steel was the only way to fix it, I simply said it was the right was to fix it.
That's not MY way, I didn't invent it and am trying to push it on everybody, it's just a fact that it's the proper way to fix rust.That's why I did it that way, I like to do thing once, and do them right.
And I stand behind my statement that spray foam covered in glass and bondo is a half assed way to fix it.
Spray foam has NO place in autobody repair. It will actually soak up water and cause it to rust out even faster.Once the inner rockers are rusted out, then it's a lost cause.
So instead of simply insulting me, my truck, the OP and his truck, and other posters who are trying to help out, why not try and learn about something you obviously know nothing about.
The mods have my permission to allow you to throw any insults you want my way. I could care less.
You call me names, and I'll try to help you learn something new.
Cut or grind the rust back to metal and Fiberglas it. I haven't seen any fiberglass rusting after the job was done right. People have been fiber glassing for decades . The main thing is to get rid of all the rust or you are wasting your time. Filling that voided area with fiberglass or more metal really does not make a difference. Weather this is better or quicker is up to the person doing the job.
What gives it any strength from crushing in?
I 'm just having a hard time understanding how you can replace the rocker with fiberglass.
I take it in all your familiarity with body work you have never done any fiber glass work? I am not going to argue with you. But your knowledge on the subject seems to much less than you think it is.
How can you cut out an entire section of rocker panel and replace it with fiberglass, with any strength?I am not asking you to argue with me.
Yes how do you get it to so quickly and easily take the shape of the rocker? And how do you get it to cure so fast as to be quicker than replacing with stamped steel? If you only have time to answer one question then please the first one, how do you make it look like a rocker, and not a kindergarten papermache rendition of a salmon.
Perhaps 20-50 years ago repop steel parts weren't so easy to come by, but now they are. And even when they weren't, the real pros still used steel, and fiberglass and bondo were still considered half assed.
Perhaps 20-50 years ago repop steel parts weren't so easy to come by, but now they are. And even when they weren't, the real pros still used steel, and fiberglass and bondo were still considered half assed.
Yes how do you get it to so quickly and easily take the shape of the rocker? And how do you get it to cure so fast as to be quicker than replacing with stamped steel? If you only have time to answer one question then please the first one, how do you make it look like a rocker, and not a kindergarten papermache rendition of a salmon.
Perhaps 20-50 years ago repop steel parts weren't so easy to come by, but now they are. And even when they weren't, the real pros still used steel, and fiberglass and bondo were still considered half assed.
Perhaps 20-50 years ago repop steel parts weren't so easy to come by, but now they are. And even when they weren't, the real pros still used steel, and fiberglass and bondo were still considered half assed.
I guess they don't know what they are doing.
Or maybe I simply missed that part while I was in the kitchen getting something to eat.
I'll need to pay closer attention the next time I watch it, maybe I'll learn something from the spray foam and bondo part. LOL
Wow skizriz, you did an excellent job man.
I definitely feel the hesitation to start cutting into the truck, so your story is an inspiration! If I had some kind of welding experience, I would probably be less worried about it, but body work is a foreign operation to me.
Thanks again for everyone's input.
I definitely feel the hesitation to start cutting into the truck, so your story is an inspiration! If I had some kind of welding experience, I would probably be less worried about it, but body work is a foreign operation to me.
Thanks again for everyone's input.
In reality, all you have to do is be able to make a 3 second tack weld. When doing body work, it not a solid weld. It's a LOT of tack welds until you completely weld in the panel.
You go back and forth from one end to the other, giving the welds a chance to cool between tacks.
No matter how ugly the welds are, it's nothing a grinder won't fix.






