Park Brake Cable
How do you get the park brake cable off the park brake pedal on a 2000 f150 2WD with back disc brakes? Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. Already changed everything else cables shoes and rotors but can't get cable off pedal. Driving me nuts.
Hmm, must be a good story as to why cables need replaced on a 7-year-old truck.
Not familiar with your specific vintage (or I guess after reading Jon's nifty F-150 Wikipedia link, the correct term is 'generation').
Based on experience with older vehicles having conventional drum brakes in rear, I suggest to loosen / disconnect the cable at the other end, the goal being to get some unsprung slack in the cable at the pedal.
There should be a collar of some sort fixed on the end of the cable at the pedal. The goal is to have enough slack in the cable to be able to swing the cable through the slots in the retainer clip to reach the point where a wider opening will allow this cable collar to slip through.
Not familiar with your specific vintage (or I guess after reading Jon's nifty F-150 Wikipedia link, the correct term is 'generation').
Based on experience with older vehicles having conventional drum brakes in rear, I suggest to loosen / disconnect the cable at the other end, the goal being to get some unsprung slack in the cable at the pedal.
There should be a collar of some sort fixed on the end of the cable at the pedal. The goal is to have enough slack in the cable to be able to swing the cable through the slots in the retainer clip to reach the point where a wider opening will allow this cable collar to slip through.
Hmm, must be a good story as to why cables need replaced on a 7-year-old truck.
Not familiar with your specific vintage (or I guess after reading Jon's nifty F-150 Wikipedia link, the correct term is 'generation').
Based on experience with older vehicles having conventional drum brakes in rear, I suggest to loosen / disconnect the cable at the other end, the goal being to get some unsprung slack in the cable at the pedal.
There should be a collar of some sort fixed on the end of the cable at the pedal. The goal is to have enough slack in the cable to be able to swing the cable through the slots in the retainer clip to reach the point where a wider opening will allow this cable collar to slip through.
Not familiar with your specific vintage (or I guess after reading Jon's nifty F-150 Wikipedia link, the correct term is 'generation').
Based on experience with older vehicles having conventional drum brakes in rear, I suggest to loosen / disconnect the cable at the other end, the goal being to get some unsprung slack in the cable at the pedal.
There should be a collar of some sort fixed on the end of the cable at the pedal. The goal is to have enough slack in the cable to be able to swing the cable through the slots in the retainer clip to reach the point where a wider opening will allow this cable collar to slip through.
The tension is off at the pedal the cable is diconnected at the other end its at the pedal I can't get it off. Can't see what I'm doing based on the pedals location its the retaining clip thats giving me the hard time.
See PM.
Basically, recommended either looking at a shop manual for an exploded view, or pulling the pedal assembly off the firewall to get a better look-see.
Basically, recommended either looking at a shop manual for an exploded view, or pulling the pedal assembly off the firewall to get a better look-see.
Last edited by wde3477; Sep 16, 2007 at 10:57 PM. Reason: fixed verb tense - I hate tense verbs!
I just finished re-routing my e-brake cable on my 2002 F-150 with disc brakes. Right at the hub where the cable hooks up you need to follow it back to the bracket the holds the line. There are 3 small tabs that need to be compressed all at the same time so you can remove line from the bracket. Once the line is removed from the bracket you'll have enough play in the line to disconnect it from the small ear it hooks onto you hub at. To compress the three tabs you need plenty of patience, a needle nose pliers, and a flat head screw driver. Someone to assist you would also help you.
I agree, same problem. The cable goes behind the plate/foot pedal, and you can not see anything.
So, apparently if I get enough slack in the cable, the end just lifts off of the plate attached to the foot pedal?
I read somewhere else somthing about inserting a drill bit, etc.
Why didn't they put the *&*(# cable on the OUTSIDE of the bracket, where you can see it???
anyone have a drawing/diagram/picture?
So, apparently if I get enough slack in the cable, the end just lifts off of the plate attached to the foot pedal?
I read somewhere else somthing about inserting a drill bit, etc.
Why didn't they put the *&*(# cable on the OUTSIDE of the bracket, where you can see it???
anyone have a drawing/diagram/picture?
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Well, just got a new e brake pedal and front cable. Apparently, you can not buy just the front cable alone! $117 down the drain for a $15 cable! Interesting. I can see by the replacement part that there is not easy way to replace just the cable! The cable end fits between the spring and the foot pedal. If you took the cable out, the spring would unwind in a dramatic fashion. Who the heck designed this thing?
Will replace tomorrow.
Will replace tomorrow.
Last edited by spanz; Oct 15, 2010 at 07:25 PM.
Well, it all went fairly well. Getting the old pedal out was a real bear. But after you get the 3 bolts out, you can buffalo it out by brute force. Was dreading trying to get it back in, but magically is kind of popped into place after only a few minutes. Go figure. The hardest part was reconnecting the parking brake switch wire, which my wife had to do for me since she had smaller fingers. The hayes manual said to remove the whole bottom dash, but it was not necessary. The pedal/cable assembly comes with a pin inserted to keep the most slack in the cable--just pull it out when the full job is over.
I ended replacing all three parking brake cables. The one on the driver side was rust-welded to the brake hub. Used bolt cutters to chop the cable right at the hub, used a dremel tool and a carborundum disk to chop the ss cable ferule flush with the hub support, then used a drill with progressively larger bits until it spun free.
Doing the final attach of the 3 cables in the center was a 2-person job. I yanked hard on the rear right cable, and the spouse got the two cable ends into the connector.
All in all, it wasn't too bad.
I ended replacing all three parking brake cables. The one on the driver side was rust-welded to the brake hub. Used bolt cutters to chop the cable right at the hub, used a dremel tool and a carborundum disk to chop the ss cable ferule flush with the hub support, then used a drill with progressively larger bits until it spun free.
Doing the final attach of the 3 cables in the center was a 2-person job. I yanked hard on the rear right cable, and the spouse got the two cable ends into the connector.
All in all, it wasn't too bad.



