new torque converter, SES light
Put a new oil pan baffle, pickup tube (you can see why in another thread, long story :P) and a new torque converter. When I started it up it felt smooth, then a few hours later the service engine light came on with a code for an o2 sensor p0156.
The only problem I have noticed, which I was curious if it's from the bad o2 sensor, is there is a little bit of a vibration from the truck in the steering wheel while I am in drive and at a dead stop just idling. The idle is around 600-650 rpms. Once I let start rolling and the rpms kick up just a tiny bit the vibration stops. When I am in neutral or park, the rpms are a little higher at idle and there's no vibration. I don't think there's any other weird sounds or feelings. But I will drive it a little more and see.
There's only about 20 or 30 miles on it so far.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Corey.
The only problem I have noticed, which I was curious if it's from the bad o2 sensor, is there is a little bit of a vibration from the truck in the steering wheel while I am in drive and at a dead stop just idling. The idle is around 600-650 rpms. Once I let start rolling and the rpms kick up just a tiny bit the vibration stops. When I am in neutral or park, the rpms are a little higher at idle and there's no vibration. I don't think there's any other weird sounds or feelings. But I will drive it a little more and see.
There's only about 20 or 30 miles on it so far.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Corey.
Move the driver's side rear sensor to the passenger side and see if the code changes, if it does you have a bad o2 sensor, if it comes back the same you have a problem in the circuit somewhere and you know it's before the sensor.
Is the o2 sensor going to be causing the vibration??
I thought that too, but it doesn't seem to make any sounds. and it's full of fluid. does it make any difference that it's only vibrating when it's at a lower rpm, around 650, or that it only vibrates when the car is in drive?
Since you already have a code set for 02, how about disconnecting that sensor-see if that changes the way it idles in gear. With the sensor unplugged, the PCM will revert back to its original program. If the sensor is faulty you should notice a difference. If you have access to the PCM datastream, check and compare the long term fuel trim readings. Normally these would be within 5% of each other.
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The sensor can't be giving a bad signal because the code is a circuit code so the problem is that it's not getting a signal at all. That's why I say swap them and figure out if it's the circuit or the sensor and go from there. Then once you have the code fixed if the vibration goes away good and if not it wasn't related.
The sensor can't be giving a bad signal because the code is a circuit code so the problem is that it's not getting a signal at all. That's why I say swap them and figure out if it's the circuit or the sensor and go from there. Then once you have the code fixed if the vibration goes away good and if not it wasn't related.

