Need help guys
#1
Need help guys
I have a 2002 F150 4.6 Screw. I have a leak on the intake where the heater hose connects at the front of the block (left hand side of the alternator). The metal piece that is in the intake appears to have a crack in it. I was looking online trying to find out if this metal piece is available to buy and if it is pressed or threaded into the intake. Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
#2
Senior Member
If you are talking about the heater line fitting on the left front corner, it is built into the intake, so you are talking about a replacement manifold. I've never heard of a way to fix any problem with that runner, but there may be some fixes I'm not privy to. I hope that there is, but I've got serious doubts. Here is a picture of the way it is set up.
#3
Senior Member
So that piece is a press fit, AK? I think the cars have it threaded.
As far as a repair, if you could find the inner diameter, then find another pipe with the same outer diameter, you could always try and epoxy it in there. Or drill and tap it to accept something else - like an NPT pipe.
BRAIN FART - the cars a threaded for a sensor in the same area the truck has the coolant nipple. Forgot the cars coolant nipple is at the back of the intake.
As far as a repair, if you could find the inner diameter, then find another pipe with the same outer diameter, you could always try and epoxy it in there. Or drill and tap it to accept something else - like an NPT pipe.
BRAIN FART - the cars a threaded for a sensor in the same area the truck has the coolant nipple. Forgot the cars coolant nipple is at the back of the intake.
Last edited by white89gt; 01-14-2018 at 11:55 AM.
#5
Senior Member
Well if you fix it , it will be the first success I've seen or heard of. AFAIK it's unachievable with the end result of a new manifold install. Too much heat for epoxy.
#6
plastic intakes are a wear item. They do not last the life of the engine not even close. Rock auto has the doorman intake. There is also another manufacture on Amazon forget what there called. I got one for my sisters car from Amazon I'm thinking it was around $120. That was a couple years ago and its been fine.
Bottom line is your gonna have to replace that intake.
Bottom line is your gonna have to replace that intake.
Last edited by jethat; 01-15-2018 at 08:59 PM.
#7
Epoxy is miracle stuff. I once had a camaro I restored for the old lady an 86 with the V6. The wife drove it over an Island and scraped a hole on the oil pan. Fixing the pan required removing it so I thought I'd give epoxy a shot. Drained the oil out and vacuumed residue oil and cleaned it really good with a solvent. Epoxied it and it held for years. Was surprised. Ya never know..
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#8
Senior Member
I've seen epoxy patch up a hot gear oil tank. I don't know what brand it is we use, but it takes a serious beating. I haven't tried it, but JB Weld Extreme Heat is supposed to be able to patch a water heater.... they claim it will withstand over 2000 degrees, IIRC.
#9
plastic intakes are a wear item. They do not last the life of the engine not even close. Rock auto has the doorman intake. There is also another manufacture on Amazon forget what there called. I got one for my sisters car from Amazon I'm thinking it was around $120. That was a couple years ago and its been fine.
Bottom line is your gonna have to replace that intake.
Bottom line is your gonna have to replace that intake.
The timing chain guides are serious issue.
6 years old I recently found the intake hose from air filter on my daughters my daughter's Nissan had degraded and split and was leaking. No excuse for that. At all.
Last edited by mbb; 01-15-2018 at 11:13 PM.
#10
Senior Member
Think hard about the details of the fix. Is the tube aluminum or steel pressed in to aluminum? Is the crack longitudinal or axial? Is it in the tube or at the base of the tube (maybe the tube is getting ready to break off)?
Don't mean to get all brainiac but it's the difference between smearing some epoxy goop on a crack or picking the best possibility for success. A metal-filled epoxy like JB Weld SteelStik won't be the same as an unfilled epoxy for wood. I'd smear the epoxy in to the crack from the inside of the tube if you decide to go that route. Like packing a bearing. Or epoxy a sleeve over the outside. How about piece of shrink fit tubing? Just free-wheeling...
Don't mean to get all brainiac but it's the difference between smearing some epoxy goop on a crack or picking the best possibility for success. A metal-filled epoxy like JB Weld SteelStik won't be the same as an unfilled epoxy for wood. I'd smear the epoxy in to the crack from the inside of the tube if you decide to go that route. Like packing a bearing. Or epoxy a sleeve over the outside. How about piece of shrink fit tubing? Just free-wheeling...