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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 02:58 AM
  #11  
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go to your local auto parts store or walmart and get a can of sea foam... put it in your oil and brake booster line. best way to find out how to do it is look on you tube... but mine did that and i went the cheepest way first and it was it!
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 07:19 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Blakers

I think I will try that
I just switched to Mobil 1 syn high milage and I've heard of some peoples trucks doing that after they switch oils
I've also been told that whatever oil you started with, synthetic or normal, stay with it of your truck has any amount of mileage on it. Otherwise it'll mess up the seals. Don't know how much I believe that though, my old inline six never had the same oil in it everytime and it lasted 327,000 miles before I traded her and she was still running strong for me too. I just had to have that dang V10 though, not really much difference in fuel mileage, lol.
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 01:20 PM
  #13  
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I just ran some seafoam and the ticking got wayyy quieter
Hopefully it goes away
I think it was just a stuck lifter
But I'll run it today and see how it is when I get to. Work to see if it quiets down, but this is the second time I ran seafoam with no white smoke
Hopefully it doesn't decide to do it while driving haha
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 01:59 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Blakers
I just ran some seafoam and the ticking got wayyy quieter
Hopefully it goes away
I think it was just a stuck lifter
But I'll run it today and see how it is when I get to. Work to see if it quiets down, but this is the second time I ran seafoam with no white smoke
Hopefully it doesn't decide to do it while driving haha
With all that white smoke coming out i wouldnt be worried about your motor at that point, id be more concerned with the flock of cars behind you poppin wheelies off the guardrails.lmao
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 11:52 AM
  #15  
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Danggg the tick is back
Idk what to do now at this point
Maybe I'll switch back to conventional oil
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 12:04 PM
  #16  
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Sorry to hear that man. I was hoping that cleaning the motor out would help it. I don't remember the name of the stuff I used; it was some heavy duty cleaner though. If I'm not mistaken, as it was 15 years ago when I did it, the can was black and silver or black and gold. I got it at advance auto. I'll do a search for you. With this stuff you put it into your oil and run the truck at idle for so many minutes letting it get into the system and free stuff up. Once the time has gone by, you simply let it cool off and then change the oil.
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 12:15 PM
  #17  
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Ok, did a search. I couldn't find a brand that looked like what I remember the can looking like. Of course, it was 15 years ago and they have either gone out of business or changed their look. Anyway, what I used was called a 5 minute motor flush. The one I used did not require the oil to be changed PRIOR to doing the flush. All of the newer brands I see suggest changing the oil first, leaving room for the flush, put the flush in and run the motor for the required time, and then change the oil again. This could be expensive, but it would still be a cheaper try than straight up taking it to a mechanic.

I'm not sure how the seafoam stuff works, if it is the same principle. If not you might want to try a flush before paying a whole lot of money out of pocket to a mechanic. If you can, try not to drive it as much until you can perform the flush, just in case it is something more serious.

Hope you can get it figured out and fixed.
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 06:35 PM
  #18  
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Switch to a 5w40 synt. Oil or the Shell Rotella 10w40 dino.
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 12:15 AM
  #19  
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can you make a video and up load it and it would be easy to tell
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Old May 1, 2012 | 02:13 AM
  #20  
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Ive heard it could be a cam phaser
How hard is that to do? Is it a pretty big job?
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