Does it look like this? LOL I got this installed today !!

 

LOL... Brew's got a good hand it sounds like.

 

Haha yup! Come on man, it's only been a couple weeks since I said I'd load up some pics for yuh lol.

I put up a gallery on site here, -

https://www.f150forum.com/g/album/10475726

Posted pic desriptions as well. But yea, -sort of the same exhaust crap. Headers go on easy, just time consuming. Removing an old set of those is worse than original manifolds. Couldn't get a good bite on most of the bolts, -plus there isn't room to get at them with header primaries. Was a slice and dice for sure lol. Good luck finishing up over there.

LOL, - I had a few...we did pretty good after tossing the phones and cracking a few cold ones.

 

HA! that does look so familiar - all those studs lined up. Thanks for the pics.

 

Damn man, wish I had the room for big nuts...........nah, I'll just leave it right there lol.

Anyway yea, had to fish around for 9/16, -on the skinny side preferably. Most of the primaries were too close for anything larger. I twisted one off as well, it was galvanized, didn't stick lol. I had to drill out the 9/16 nuts lol. Truth be told, - a custom nut job for sure lol.

BTW- did you do a hard disconnect ? You can fry the PCM real easy in these gen 10's...and then some. Always heard you could with any vehicle, never had a problem in the past. About 4 or 5 years ago I did exactly that. Fried the PCM, half the coils (head separated on #4)....took out a O2 sensor as well, that was on this truck. The battery was pulled, but I didn't disconnect the PCM. I was welding in silicon bronze grounding lugs, prepping for a big 4 upgrade. Nicked the pass side header with a cut-off. So I welded on the frame and exhaust that day, I always keep my grounds clean and close. Yea, got the PCM and a few other things that day. So, I pull the plug on anything close after that experience, definitely the PCM.

Regardless, you won't know until you turn the key most likley. PCM's utilize many vehicle grounds...multiple paths. I found one that day lol.

 

Damn. I did not unplug the computer but will do so before any further welding. Thanks - fingers crossed for next startup.

 

Yea, I fired it up and ran like it was in fail safe mode. 4 cylinders where firing, the other 4 dead. Turned out I fried the solid state switches inside the PCM that were dedicated to those coils and drivers. The charge took out components on the way, finally finding ground with coil #4. The coils head separated from the rest of the coil. I might of heard that occur while welding, -I heard something, but it was faint. Well, it wasn't loud enough to investigate at the time. Once I realized what had happened after firing it up for the first time, I figured that noise must have been the coil coming apart.

Also, when you disconnect the PCM (the O2 sensors as well), cover the connectors with something. If dirt, dust contaminates the dielectric , particularly with those connectors, you may be scratching your head for quite awhile before realizing what happened....if you even make it that far before putting a match to it lol. Yea, over the years IME the PCM and O2 plugs are the most picky about staying clean. Might even wanna bathe in alcohol before feeling them up.

 

Making progress ? I got about as far as you did in your last pic, -prepped the head surfaces for mounting. Vac'ed the cylinder ports, plugged them. Flushed the thread ports w/BK and compressed air, then test. The 3 rear thread ports on the drivers side failed, reason unknown. Set up M18 tap to chase, left off there.

 

Thanks for the update and the procedural tips. I probably won't be able to continue work on it until friday. Gathering supplies in the meantime to prep the heads and clean everything up. I'm also going to put a coat of high heat paint on the manifold.

What do you mean failed? Did the studs strip out when you tried to torque the nuts?

 

With the first header install I used the supplied short header bolts which only threaded in 1/4". Just 3 or 4 threads of the bolts made contact. It worked, but it took many heat cycles and re-torquing to retain torque value. I'm using longer locking SS bolts this time around to avoid this. Your not installing headers, so I won't get into the flange modifications that make this possible. Being that the short bolts used last time around needed repeated re-torqing, I'm guessing the thread chamber got a little boogered up where the short bolts stopped in the chamber, or there's corrosion. And since I can thread the new longer bolts in about 1/4" before they begin to hang up, it makes sense. Running a tap through should fix it. Plan is to tap/chase those 3 then test torque that needs to be achieved adding 10% to value/yield for thread integrity. That way, if they are going to strip out, they won't do so with the headers in place.

Are you going with ceramic or silicon paint, VHT, DEI, POR15, or Rustoleum? If you cook it in an oven, your chances of success are good, the best. If you cook it on the vehicle, you can't go by directions on the can. That won't work. To cook on the vehicle you have to have the cats installed and partially cover the exit to achieve proper curing temp long enough for proper chemical reaction. We did this with a friends 150 years ago and it was VHT brand. I monitored the heat with a gun since you have to maintain a certain temp. Back then, the final cook was 600* for 30 minutes. The cat outlet was 50% covered, was able to maintain temp via rpms and blocking the cats partially. Not sure if I'm going to paint yet, I have time to think about it. I noticed they have clear coat heat paint now. That will help dealing with the salt. Flat heat paint done right works for heat but is defenseless against salt. Por15 has the brush on clear, might be the ticket, have to look into it. Hell, if clear will stick, that will help a ton with salt.

I have a lot welding and modification to do. The headers came unfinished, - hell they even missed drilling flange bolt hole lol. Mig wire sticking out of the welds as well, but the welds inside the primaries are much better than Pacesetter . The material used is good, as long as they fit (pretty sure they will) I'll use them. Man , wish I had the time to knock this out faster.

BTW, I noticed the exhaust Y hanger bushing just above the trans mount is completely gone. They don't make them anymore. I think I found a substitute though. PITrearend lol.