ViciousCustoms

Hey guys, I'm pretty new here, but the information here has been invaluable. Let me apologize up front for the length of this post.

I've got a new to me 2002 F150 XL Supercab 4x4 that I've been working on for a bit, and thanks to the site I've finally got it up and running, and running well. Now my searches are failing me and I'm hoping someone might be able to help.

First, some background. I picked up the truck in a no start condition. It had been sitting for like two years, and it would start with fuel in the intake, but that was it. Again, thanks to the forum, I was able to troubleshoot it back to a bad fuel pump.

Now, something I didn't realize at the time was that intermittently the theft light flashed fast, which I gathered in my searches to be due to the pats system. At the same time I've noticed that sometimes the odometer doesn't come on. Here's where my first problem comes in. The intermittent no-start theft thing lead me to hope it was a key issue. I was only given one key, but I bought a 2nd key from ace (duracell), and it seemed to have cured the problem, but now it's back, with both keys. Does this point to the PATS transceiver ring thing that goes around the lock cylinder? If so, and I replace it with a used one, do I need to have the keys reprogrammed? Maybe there's an electrical short? I know the odometer thing is common to cold soldier joints, so I'm not thinking that's the case. Turning the key on in the fast flash no start scenario, and leaving it there for an extended period of time reveals no codes. It continues to flash fast. I don't know if that means anything, I had read somewhere that it should stop flashing fast and flash some type of code (13, 16, etc.), but it may be important.

Another thing to note, I did try to program a key using the original and aftermarket keys, and the programming did not work. Each key showed a solid theft light before going off, but the 3rd key showed the fast flashing theft light.

The second issue is that my dome and cargo lights don't work. Not with the door or the dimmer switch. The map lights do, and the dimmer appears to work with the dash. I checked and replaced the bulb in the interior light, and checked the #14 and #15 fuses. All that said, it seems as though relay #1 (interior lamp relay) may be bad. Is there anything else I should check before I do that? Also, can someone please give me the correct part name / number / maybe a link?

If you've made it this far, thanks!

white89gt

The receiver ring does not hold programming, so yes - you can replace just the ring. However, your problem may lie in the cluster if it is acting intermittently. I would pull it and re-flow the solder in every joint. I'm betting this may cure your issue all together. AFAIK, that ring works, or it doesn't. Not an intermittent deal.

ViciousCustoms

Thanks! I'll pull the cluster and take a look as soon as I have the opportunity and report back either way. This PATS stuff has been driving me nuts. Beyond that, this is probably one of the best running and driving trucks I've owned. Thanks again!

white89gt

No problem. Good luck!

akdoggie

Here;s a link for PATS

https://www.scribd.com/document/1114...C-Service-Tips

ViciousCustoms

Just a quick follow-up here, I haven't pulled the cluster yet, but I was doing some other limited troubleshooting and in the process I tried to do a HEC dealer test. When I held the odometer select / reset button nothing happened. When I released it, the gauges swept, the theft light went out, and the truck started. My guess is that this lends itself to a cluster issue and needing to re-flow the solder. We shall see.

white89gt

I agree... I lean even further that way.

stubborn hook

edit/ wrong thread

stubborn hook

edit/ wrong again.