Looking for a lighting/electronic guru
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 642
Likes: 1
From: Davenport, FL
Looking for a lighting/electronic guru
So with any luck, tomorrow I will be the proud owner of 98 F150, stepside long bed, reg cab, level kit etc..
I really want to put clearance lights on the roof, but I don't wanna spend alot, the recon ones are like $100.
Has anybody done this to their 98 and how'd they come out?
I know not everybody likes the idea of clearance lights, but it'll be my truck, I'll be the one driving it, not any of you nay sayers lol.
I really want to put clearance lights on the roof, but I don't wanna spend alot, the recon ones are like $100.
Has anybody done this to their 98 and how'd they come out?
I know not everybody likes the idea of clearance lights, but it'll be my truck, I'll be the one driving it, not any of you nay sayers lol.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 642
Likes: 1
From: Davenport, FL
Like I said, I want to avoid getting a 'kit'. Kits cost $100+. I can buy components a lot cheaper, I just need to know what components to buy that will work. I've installed bed lighting for $15 in parts while the kits cost upwards on a hundred.
Thug Eradicator
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, MS
Only components you will need are the lights themselves.... depending on how much wire comes wit hthem you may need some extra.
ive never priced them so not sure on cost i wanna say i have seen some cab lights at walmart before....
ive never priced them so not sure on cost i wanna say i have seen some cab lights at walmart before....
Last edited by marionso14; Jun 15, 2011 at 05:07 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,446
Likes: 3
From: Raiderland, TX
If there is a Tractor Supply near you check them out. I think they are under $10 a light, including the lens and yes you need that. Need a total of 5, 3 middle 2 out side. Just need to wire them into your park/idle lights depending on what you call them.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 100
Likes: 1
JC Whitney has several styles and at pretty decent prices. You can also try big rig shops or truck stops.
You need wiring. I'd go 14ga for minimal voltage drop and maximum amperage. 16ga should suffice, but it's minimum of what I would consider using. Avoid scotch locks like the plague. They're horrible under almost all conditions. Take the time to properly splice and/or use butt connectors with a good pair of crimpers. You'll probably want to install something to the tune of a 10amp fuse and don't forget a relay. You can use your parking light wire right from the switch as your trigger wire. This will make sure they come on with the parking lights and are off otherwise. This is the proper way.
If you wanna go low budget and "rig" it up (which I don't suggest) you get yourself the 16ga or 18ga wire and some scotch locks. Then just tap into the parking light wire at the switch with no relay. The scotch locks will cut through your cheap wire, the lamps won't be as bright as they could be due to the small gauge wire, and you'll most likely burn up your headlight switch due to the excessive draw.
There's the cost of doing it right the first time and there's the continued cost of keeping up with the wrong way of doing it. They make things in a kit for a reason and most of the time you're better off buying the kit.
You need wiring. I'd go 14ga for minimal voltage drop and maximum amperage. 16ga should suffice, but it's minimum of what I would consider using. Avoid scotch locks like the plague. They're horrible under almost all conditions. Take the time to properly splice and/or use butt connectors with a good pair of crimpers. You'll probably want to install something to the tune of a 10amp fuse and don't forget a relay. You can use your parking light wire right from the switch as your trigger wire. This will make sure they come on with the parking lights and are off otherwise. This is the proper way.
If you wanna go low budget and "rig" it up (which I don't suggest) you get yourself the 16ga or 18ga wire and some scotch locks. Then just tap into the parking light wire at the switch with no relay. The scotch locks will cut through your cheap wire, the lamps won't be as bright as they could be due to the small gauge wire, and you'll most likely burn up your headlight switch due to the excessive draw.
There's the cost of doing it right the first time and there's the continued cost of keeping up with the wrong way of doing it. They make things in a kit for a reason and most of the time you're better off buying the kit.
Trending Topics
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,446
Likes: 3
From: Raiderland, TX
JC Whitney has several styles and at pretty decent prices. You can also try big rig shops or truck stops.
You need wiring. I'd go 14ga for minimal voltage drop and maximum amperage. 16ga should suffice, but it's minimum of what I would consider using. Avoid scotch locks like the plague. They're horrible under almost all conditions. Take the time to properly splice and/or use butt connectors with a good pair of crimpers. You'll probably want to install something to the tune of a 10amp fuse and don't forget a relay. You can use your parking light wire right from the switch as your trigger wire. This will make sure they come on with the parking lights and are off otherwise. This is the proper way.
If you wanna go low budget and "rig" it up (which I don't suggest) you get yourself the 16ga or 18ga wire and some scotch locks. Then just tap into the parking light wire at the switch with no relay. The scotch locks will cut through your cheap wire, the lamps won't be as bright as they could be due to the small gauge wire, and you'll most likely burn up your headlight switch due to the excessive draw.
There's the cost of doing it right the first time and there's the continued cost of keeping up with the wrong way of doing it. They make things in a kit for a reason and most of the time you're better off buying the kit.
You need wiring. I'd go 14ga for minimal voltage drop and maximum amperage. 16ga should suffice, but it's minimum of what I would consider using. Avoid scotch locks like the plague. They're horrible under almost all conditions. Take the time to properly splice and/or use butt connectors with a good pair of crimpers. You'll probably want to install something to the tune of a 10amp fuse and don't forget a relay. You can use your parking light wire right from the switch as your trigger wire. This will make sure they come on with the parking lights and are off otherwise. This is the proper way.
If you wanna go low budget and "rig" it up (which I don't suggest) you get yourself the 16ga or 18ga wire and some scotch locks. Then just tap into the parking light wire at the switch with no relay. The scotch locks will cut through your cheap wire, the lamps won't be as bright as they could be due to the small gauge wire, and you'll most likely burn up your headlight switch due to the excessive draw.
There's the cost of doing it right the first time and there's the continued cost of keeping up with the wrong way of doing it. They make things in a kit for a reason and most of the time you're better off buying the kit.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 642
Likes: 1
From: Davenport, FL
Sorry, when I said I wanted to do it cheap, I didn't want that confused with a "cheap" job. I just know I can get the proper components cheaper than I can get the finished units for.
But thank you for sending me to JC Whitney. I found these:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/5-piece-cab...9d19344y1998j1
I could easily change out the 18ga wire for something a little thicker.
I also found this kit, it's a little more expensive, but I prefer the light set up.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/hi-five-oe-...9d19344y1998j1
But thank you for sending me to JC Whitney. I found these:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/5-piece-cab...9d19344y1998j1
I could easily change out the 18ga wire for something a little thicker.
I also found this kit, it's a little more expensive, but I prefer the light set up.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/hi-five-oe-...9d19344y1998j1
Last edited by wakonako; Jun 20, 2011 at 07:17 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 100
Likes: 1
The Pilot brand set is more the style you see on 96 and older whereas the Pacer set is the more modern style. Of course the style is up to you as it's your truck. I would ditch the switch, get a 4 (or 5, does the same thing) prong relay and hook em up straight to your headlight switch as the trigger. Unless, you want to be able to turn them on and off of course... Either way, you can still do it with the switch as a cutout, and using the headlight switch as a trigger wire. It's not as hard to do as it may sound.