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1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

Leaking rear window/bezel

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Old Mar 11, 2018 | 11:12 AM
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Default Leaking rear window/bezel

My son recently got a standard cab 1999 F150. It was leaking at the rear of the cab. I looked at the 3rd brake light last week, but those didn't even come with a gasket Im guessing. I caulked around the top of it.
Yesterday, me and my son went to my brothers shop and removed the rear window to re seal it. Well, it is still leaking to the drivers side. I noticed when the window was out, the bezel, had the inner lip, at the top under the 3rd brake light, was broken. Is it possible that it is leaking behind that?

Outside of replacing the bezel, what options should I look at?

thanks

JJ
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Old Mar 11, 2018 | 01:35 PM
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The back windows in the GEN 10's can leak from a couple spots. Usually the outer trim doesn't leak. It is held in with bolts and clips, so it can leak, just usually it's not the problem. The glass in these trucks, the retainer frame cracks and it will leak big time there. If you have a slider, it can crack on the passenger side of the opening at the top or bottom, which is right under that 3rd brake light. Sealing the rim of the frame, is just about pointless. IT almost never works. Many have tried resealing from outside the trim, almost everyone fails doing this. It is better to pull the window and frame and reseal the whole thing. If the surround is broken, you might consider finding another in a yard, as a new one, when you can find them are over 400 for that plastic. I replaced that in mine as the bottom of both sides was damaged from both tonneau cover hinges. Luckily I found a truck with slider and perfect surround.

It is quite common also for the regular glass to crack in the same area, just without the sliding part. The frame narrows right there, and sometimes with crack. When it does, even if it doesn't look bad, it will pour water into the cabin. The outer trim is held in with bolts and push in clips. We've had guys write about sealing the trim from the inside by using silicone around the bolts/nuts and the clips. I think that personally, if I had a trim leak, I would do it this way. Much cleaner and less chance for leaks again.

Here is a link for a new surround. Way too much for me, but will give you an idea.
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...Y2LWdhcw%3D%3D
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Old Mar 11, 2018 | 02:17 PM
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We will try and find another piece at a junkyard. We have been out the last couple of weekends pulling things, so, I am hoping there is a good one of those left.

It is still raining today, so I think we may get out and pull the interior trim back out again, and see if we can find where it is leaking.

We pulled the window yesterday, and ran a fairly big bead around the edge. So, if baffles me that it could be that, but, you never know. I didn't notice much about the frame, but, I also wasn't looking at this. We cleaned it, and made sure all the other sealant was gone. I didn't notice any breaks/cracks.

The truck leans slightly to the drivers side. You can notice it standing in front of it. And, this morning, the leak is showing on that side (driver side) of the interior. So, I am hoping it will be easy to spot.

thanks

EDIT. Does the trim have gaskets/sealer at the mounts initially?

Last edited by jacobh112; Mar 11, 2018 at 02:19 PM.
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Old Mar 11, 2018 | 04:19 PM
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The trim itself has a washer type seal. The clips on the upper corners can be tough, so if you a straight needle nose set of pliers, try that for the clips. That was the only way i could keep from breaking them.

Did you use a ribbon sealer or a caulking tube style sealer? Another thing, did you follow the window bead or just make the oval when you put the sealer on? You have to follow the window side seal pattern, or it will leak. Using the 5/16 or 3/8 window ribbon is the preferred way to seal the back glass and now have a leak on these trucks. Most use the 3M Ribbon Weld Seal brand. #08612
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Old Mar 11, 2018 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by akdoggie
The trim itself has a washer type seal. The clips on the upper corners can be tough, so if you a straight needle nose set of pliers, try that for the clips. That was the only way i could keep from breaking them.

Did you use a ribbon sealer or a caulking tube style sealer? Another thing, did you follow the window bead or just make the oval when you put the sealer on? You have to follow the window side seal pattern, or it will leak. Using the 5/16 or 3/8 window ribbon is the preferred way to seal the back glass and now have a leak on these trucks. Most use the 3M Ribbon Weld Seal brand. #08612

I used the 3m window weld caulk. 8609 (?) maybe. I did follow the channels when indicated. And even a couple of parts in doubled up.

wherever it' leaking from is a little worse than before, yay me. When I went out to pull the trim, the driver side by the door was submerged. I guess I'm lucky now my truck is leaning, haha. I took some pics, so I'm gonna see about posting them.

thanks for your time
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Old Mar 11, 2018 | 05:55 PM
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[QUOTE=jacobh112;5696212]I used the 3m window weld caulk. 8609 (?) maybe. I did follow the channels when indicated. And even a couple of parts in doubled up.

wherever it' leaking from is a little worse than before, yay me. When I went out to pull the trim, the driver side by the door was submerged. I guess I'm lucky now my truck is leaning, haha. I took some pics, so I'm gonna see about posting them.
​​​​​

thanks for your time this 1st pic, it was fairly wet, but guessing it was from above

This is the top, and the wet spot starts/stops where the hook insert attaches.

Last edited by jacobh112; Mar 11, 2018 at 06:10 PM. Reason: Adding to 1st pic
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Old Mar 11, 2018 | 08:04 PM
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The stuff in a tube doesn't work. You need to use 3m 5/16 or 3/8 ribbon . And get all of the old stuff cleaned off and fix any rust.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...8612/7100000-P

Last edited by kd4gij; Mar 11, 2018 at 08:06 PM.
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Old Mar 11, 2018 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by kd4gij
The stuff in a tube doesn't work. You need to use 3m 5/16 or 3/8 ribbon . And get all of the old stuff cleaned off and fix any rust.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...8612/7100000-P
ok, thank you. Will try that this weekend. We spent majority of our time cleaning this past time. If it wasn't for that, doing this would be a breeze
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Old Mar 11, 2018 | 09:47 PM
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Jacob....also straighten the rim of the window where you've used a screw driver to remove ti before. You want this thing as close to right as possible, and ad Kd4 said, use the rope style ribbon. Good luck.
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 04:33 PM
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A wide blade putty knife is the best way I found to break the old seal. Just go straight in move over and work your way around. An like AK said you need to straighten that metal where it is bent out.
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