Leafspring shackle or bracket broken
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Leafspring shackle or bracket broken
So it's been awhile since I've been on, but today this happened. The broken part is the shackle or bracket correct? It's drivers side, rear.
In practice an easy fix?
It seems common in web searches. I'm going to have to take it to a shop as I don't have tools big enough to do it, plus I have a torn rotator cuff.
Experience with this is a relative cheap fix? The brackets seem to be 25-30 bucks... thanks in advance.
In practice an easy fix?
It seems common in web searches. I'm going to have to take it to a shop as I don't have tools big enough to do it, plus I have a torn rotator cuff.
Experience with this is a relative cheap fix? The brackets seem to be 25-30 bucks... thanks in advance.
#3
Best way to get those bolts off is with a rip saw and a metal cutting blade preferably a diamond edge metal blade. You can try a REALLY GOOD impact. I'd go for a impack that had a reverse torque rating of close to 1000 lbs. Even with one of those there is a high probability the shackle and the bolt have fused together. Rip saw! Been there done that.. Good luck!
#4
Just had to do this to mine. Mine weren't to the point of snapping off, but not too far away. Just take a torch and slice the part of the shackle that's still attached to the frame hanger on bolt sides and then knock the rubber bushing off that's probably burning by now (it'd be good to do it outside or it gets a little smokey) then heat the metal sleeve that's probably still rusted to the bolt and hit it with a hammer and it will split or come loose. even if you can get the nut loose on the bolt, you still probably won't be able to get the bolt out because there's a metal sleeve in the rubber bushing that rusts to the bolt and unless you can get an air chisel on the backside of the bolt ( my receiver hitch is in the way) your going to have a heck of some getting the bolt out.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
thanks for the replies. it's at a shop now. i can't work on it at all with my rotator cuff. the bolts don't look too bad, and it didn't actually puncture the bed. first time in history something major broke and was only 1/8th of a mile from a shop. was supposed to drive an hour and half to the beach today.
#6
Senior Member
#7
Senior Member
Just had to do this to mine. Mine weren't to the point of snapping off, but not too far away. Just take a torch and slice the part of the shackle that's still attached to the frame hanger on bolt sides and then knock the rubber bushing off that's probably burning by now (it'd be good to do it outside or it gets a little smokey) then heat the metal sleeve that's probably still rusted to the bolt and hit it with a hammer and it will split or come loose. even if you can get the nut loose on the bolt, you still probably won't be able to get the bolt out because there's a metal sleeve in the rubber bushing that rusts to the bolt and unless you can get an air chisel on the backside of the bolt ( my receiver hitch is in the way) your going to have a heck of some getting the bolt out.Attachment 474154
Huh, -I might be able to drill out the hole and weld a slug in there..I'll have to get a better look, - might not be worth the effort.
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#8
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Hey, JB- Dorman makes replacements for about 35.00- to me its not worth the time/effort to repair- mine busted about 6 wks. ago- (i didnt think mine was that bad either!)
Vatozone has the same part under the same # as Dorman for the same price under their duralast brand- and they appear to be the same metal thickness as the original (or what was left of it).
Vatozone has the same part under the same # as Dorman for the same price under their duralast brand- and they appear to be the same metal thickness as the original (or what was left of it).
#9
Originally Posted by rcairbear
Hey, JB- Dorman makes replacements for about 35.00- to me its not worth the time/effort to repair- mine busted about 6 wks. ago- (i didnt think mine was that bad either!)
Vatozone has the same part under the same # as Dorman for the same price under their duralast brand- and they appear to be the same metal thickness as the original (or what was left of it).
Vatozone has the same part under the same # as Dorman for the same price under their duralast brand- and they appear to be the same metal thickness as the original (or what was left of it).
#10
Originally Posted by Jbrew
Thanks man. Well, I know how I'm going to do it now. Mine aren't at the breaking point yet, there's like a rust hole in the center of the drivers side (I think that's the side), but looks strong.
Huh, -I might be able to drill out the hole and weld a slug in there..I'll have to get a better look, - might not be worth the effort.
Huh, -I might be able to drill out the hole and weld a slug in there..I'll have to get a better look, - might not be worth the effort.