Jerking Problem
#21
Senior Member
Why ? That was the most help you had with determining the problem. When you have the DTC's read, always write them down first. Shops won't erase anything unless you ask them to. You must of told them to erase it before retrieving the DTC lol. Some places won't erase them. Well, that did a lot of good. However, sounds like you got a PO316, just guessing at this point. They mentioned transmission, strange, there must have been more codes then. It's looking like you/they read one code description and may have erased the rest. That hurts, lost all your short-cuts lol. Might be better off just taking it in and having it looked at..sometimes it's better to bite that bullet.
Last edited by Jbrew; 10-26-2018 at 07:44 PM.
#22
Senior Member
You also mentioned you changed the CAPS and used and Edelbrock coil. So now we are back to a 4.2L engine right, ESSEX V6. ? Do you have 6 plugs or 8, this a Ford engine correct ? Perhaps a picture might help.
#23
i'm no expert and i don't want to mislead anyone and please correct me if i'm wrong but he could have a vehicle speed sensor not pulsng correctly, i know the vss has alot to do with fuel consumption, hard to say without the codes.
#24
Junior Member
Hey- my 2001 5.4 triton SCREW first started hesitating about a week ago- noticeable around 40mph under load, but my ride to work is in traffic, 4 miles and rarely go 35. When I did get a stretch, I gunned it and she threw codes- #7 misfire.
Knowing from what I've learned from this site, and what the blown ignition coil felt like, got a new one. Had to move the fuel rail to get some working room- 2 hr later, running like a swiss watch.
Summary- guessing ends up costing alot of $$$, thankfully the codes fired. My guess was more gut than anything- AND with 185K on her, I'll be replacing a few more.
I don't mean to say forcing a failure (codes) cuts to the chase as other things might break along the way- but if there is a better way to systematically narrow it down- tell me. Thanks
Hi akdoggie
Knowing from what I've learned from this site, and what the blown ignition coil felt like, got a new one. Had to move the fuel rail to get some working room- 2 hr later, running like a swiss watch.
Summary- guessing ends up costing alot of $$$, thankfully the codes fired. My guess was more gut than anything- AND with 185K on her, I'll be replacing a few more.
I don't mean to say forcing a failure (codes) cuts to the chase as other things might break along the way- but if there is a better way to systematically narrow it down- tell me. Thanks
Hi akdoggie
#25
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I have tried gunning it with no codes being thrown. It starts out hesitating a lot then after .5 seconds it starts working somewhat better, still hesitating. until i get up to speed and then well I have to stop gunning it. 65mph from about 10-15mph uphill on on ramp.
#26
Senior Member
When you figure out which engine your attempting to fix, you'll most likley get more help. The ESSEX 4two and modulars 4six and 5four have totally different ignition systems. Went through the posts again, and your still lost apparently. Your calling it a V8 and 4.6L but parts description belong on a 4two, not a V8. Get your shi....straight, you'll get more specific help. The reply's your getting are for a modular V8, these won't help you IF you have a 6. Count the plug holes if your THAT confused. That's not too hard is it ?
#27
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@Jbrew I'm sorry that I'm not a guy that is obsessed with trucks and all there different engines. Why do you think I'm here on this website? Just to jerk your chain making everyone confused? I'm a born Redneck with a dad that liked vehicles and taught me how to do everything on them because we had no money and now I'm a White Collar Information Technology Idiot that likes to think he can still work on his truck because he is to poor to even put a roof over my families head and half the time food on the table. I'm sorry that I offended you. Also, the edelbrock coils was before when i was confused about the engine, sorry. I didn't have the parts right in front of me to look at, so i looked it up and that was the closest to what I bought but I was wrong because I selected the wrong engine on the parts website.
Sorry everyone I know I gonna get lots of comments about that. ^ I just get tired of some people that look down at people that make a mistake like they have never made one.
But as I said in the above thread,
Vehicle:
Its a V8. 1...2...3..4...5..6..7..8 Holes. Look i can count.
So not...not a 4.2L its a 4.6L
162K miles
Items checked and replaced:
Spark plugs 160K
Ignition coils 160K
Cleaned throttle body 161K
Fuel filter 144K
Engine cleaner in fuel 161K
Check engine light came on about 162K (I don't know the code. I didn't see it)
Told it was miss fire within first 1K revolutions.
If you can help me or help point me in the right direction. I sincerely Thank You.
If all you want to do is put me down that I'm an Idiot. GO AWAY!
Sorry everyone I know I gonna get lots of comments about that. ^ I just get tired of some people that look down at people that make a mistake like they have never made one.
But as I said in the above thread,
Yeah, my bad. Its the 4.6L. My brain was not working right. I had to change a flat tire before I posted this. By the way, is there a fix for the stupid spare tire key that doesn't work well?
So I replaced all the ignition coils, could it be the computer board that tells them to fire?
So I replaced all the ignition coils, could it be the computer board that tells them to fire?
Its a V8. 1...2...3..4...5..6..7..8 Holes. Look i can count.
So not...not a 4.2L its a 4.6L
162K miles
Items checked and replaced:
Spark plugs 160K
Ignition coils 160K
Cleaned throttle body 161K
Fuel filter 144K
Engine cleaner in fuel 161K
Check engine light came on about 162K (I don't know the code. I didn't see it)
Told it was miss fire within first 1K revolutions.
If you can help me or help point me in the right direction. I sincerely Thank You.
If all you want to do is put me down that I'm an Idiot. GO AWAY!
#28
Senior Member
So now you saying your fist post was BS. You didn't install new wires, caps and Edelbrock coils as you posted ? I didn't think Edelbrock resold coils under their name, I guess they do according to Jeggs (that wasn't an easy find, but trued it). Still, that V8 doesn't use wires or caps. Guess I've never seen a post that far off the basics, unless it was BS lol. If it were a 4.2L it makes a lot more sense.
Regardless, accuracy matters to some degree. Given your description with how it's running, I would eliminate the EGR valve from being the culprit. Easiest way to do that is to cut a piece of tin with snips and slide it between the EGR valve and throttle body elbow port, -blocking it completely off. If that valve is sticking and hanging open, this will cause the symptoms you describe. If that's the problem, simply blocking it can return the engine to normal running/idling.
Regardless, accuracy matters to some degree. Given your description with how it's running, I would eliminate the EGR valve from being the culprit. Easiest way to do that is to cut a piece of tin with snips and slide it between the EGR valve and throttle body elbow port, -blocking it completely off. If that valve is sticking and hanging open, this will cause the symptoms you describe. If that's the problem, simply blocking it can return the engine to normal running/idling.
#29
Senior Member
If that doesn't change things and you tested re-filtered fuel delivery (fuel is always first, it's like by-law), the ignition has to be brought up to spec. These engines NEED spec plugs and coils to run correctly vs a load of ignition problems, serious problems. The cheapest and fool proof way to correct ignition problems, purchase a set of worthy coils that meet spec. You have two choices, Motorcraft ignition coils, DG508's (cheapest on e-bay, once in awhile A mazon will have deals). Or purchase Denso coils from Rock Auto on line. Those are even cheaper, but meet spec. AFA coils go, most others are relabeled china coils. Even the larger companies relabel and sell their name. Motorcraft or Denso are the only choices here. Also, spark plugs can have the same night and day affect. The correct spec plugs are cheap, but a must. These are Motorcraft brand plugs. Getting that right will steer you clear of ignition hell and keep the hair on your head.
Last edited by Jbrew; 10-31-2018 at 06:54 PM.
#30
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Okay. Thursday I was driving home from work and my Service Engine Soon light was flashing. That is the first time I've ever seen that happen. I stopped by the auto parts store and they read the code from my now none existent light.The code was P0302. OK that will make most of you happy.That is a misfire in cylinder number 2.\
I looked up online what can cause the SES light to flash, everyone said that it was because they have water and/or fluid in the ignition coil or around the spark plug. I will be looking into that soon. Maybe when it get a little warmer or when I can get my truck in my garage.
I looked up online what can cause the SES light to flash, everyone said that it was because they have water and/or fluid in the ignition coil or around the spark plug. I will be looking into that soon. Maybe when it get a little warmer or when I can get my truck in my garage.