When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The first is a starter relay, usually fender or firewall mounted. It is often incorrectly described, even by parts sellers, as a "solenoid" although it isn't in the purest definition. The "starter solenoid" is physically mounted to the starter motor. Your '97 has this configuration.
The second is a relatively generic relay that may be used in many applications, including as a starter relay, usually in newer vehicles. It would be mounted in a fusebox, either under the hood or under the dash. Doesn't apply to your 1997 F150.
Did you ever inspect the linkage from the ignition cylinder to the ignition switch as previously recommended?
Did you check it in the START position as advised? If so, the START signal isn't getting there from the ignition switch which puts you right back to where you were 6 weeks ago.
A neighbor helped with getting that reading. He is a vintage Volvo enthusiast. Enclosed picture of my multimeter. How should it be setup to test that wire and where should the probes be contacted. I want to double check and be sure I'm doing it correctly.
When neighbor tested with his multimeter he put 1 probe on the battery positive and 1 on the wire, which I thought was strange?
Inspected all the wiring under the dash and all is intact. Have new ignition switch and key cylinder. Other than the 15 amp fuse in fuse box in the dash are there any other fuses or relays that could be affecting this?
how do I decipher the pigtail for the ignition switch so I can test for power? Could the anti-theft system have anything to do with the low voltage to the ignition switch?
