help.. running power for amp
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I zip-tied the wire to existing hoses in the engine compartment, snuck it through a grommet in the fire wall, then went behind the kick panel, and under the trim plate at the bottom of the door jamb. Also, wired in a 30A fuse (it's not that big of an amp) at the battery, in case the wire insulation happens to fail or get pinched en route to the amp. Ran #4 welding cable just for grins - it's way bigger than I need, but it was cheap - the fine strands make it extremely flexible so it's easy to work with.
I zip-tied the wire to existing hoses in the engine compartment, snuck it through a grommet in the fire wall, then went behind the kick panel, and under the trim plate at the bottom of the door jamb. Also, wired in a 30A fuse (it's not that big of an amp) at the battery, in case the wire insulation happens to fail or get pinched en route to the amp. Ran #4 welding cable just for grins - it's way bigger than I need, but it was cheap - the fine strands make it extremely flexible so it's easy to work with.
hmm well when i ran mine i tied some thin wire to the power wire itself , then i found a rubber gromet in the firewall above the brake pedal stuck the small thin wire through and pulled the power wire through with it then used zipties to go through the engine compartment then connected the 70amp fuse , the wire in the cab i took off the door jambs and then you should be able to move the carpet easily and thus run the wire pretty easily underneath the carpet to where ever you wana mount your amp the same process for the carpet will work good for your remote wire to the back of your head unit good luck bud
I ran it the same spot WDE did, up the passenger side. Then the REM and RCA ran along the driver side. I poked one small hole in the carpet for the power cable. And mine had a 100 amp fuse already tied into the cable.
There is a rubber plug under the dash between your gas and brake pedals. Under the hood it is located next to the master cylinder on the left hand side. Being very careful you can cut a small "x" in it with a razor. Just make sure you dont cut any wires or hoses on the otherside. A small cut will do, it will stretch around the wire. You can run your line from the battery with zipties across the firewall to that point. Once inside the cab you can pull up your driver side door sills and remove the kick panel. Be careful when running your wires that they wont mess with your pedals. You can run it under the carpet and down the door sills to wherever you need it. Just dont forget to put your fuse holder as close to the battery as possible, I usally just ziptie it right to the fuseable link on the battery.
Last edited by 004Heritage; Feb 15, 2009 at 09:40 PM.
There is also a pass through on the passenger side, closer to the battery so you don't have to snake all the way across the engine bay. It's low, better accessed from under the truck. It comes out under the sill plate on the inside if I remember right. You will see a big black grommett in the hole.
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for 2 wires, depending on size can easily be fit through the firewall (a positive and negative) running under the body of the truck can be very easy as whell and less of a hassle for you, what amp are you going to run, the fusing is dependant on its amp draw
Welcome to the site!
I zip-tied the wire to existing hoses in the engine compartment, snuck it through a grommet in the fire wall, then went behind the kick panel, and under the trim plate at the bottom of the door jamb. Also, wired in a 30A fuse (it's not that big of an amp) at the battery, in case the wire insulation happens to fail or get pinched en route to the amp. Ran #4 welding cable just for grins - it's way bigger than I need, but it was cheap - the fine strands make it extremely flexible so it's easy to work with.
I zip-tied the wire to existing hoses in the engine compartment, snuck it through a grommet in the fire wall, then went behind the kick panel, and under the trim plate at the bottom of the door jamb. Also, wired in a 30A fuse (it's not that big of an amp) at the battery, in case the wire insulation happens to fail or get pinched en route to the amp. Ran #4 welding cable just for grins - it's way bigger than I need, but it was cheap - the fine strands make it extremely flexible so it's easy to work with.



