Thx GRF150, but... 3 heater hoses?!?
I did not see or hear of this, '01/10th gen.

ONLY seeking knowledge.
No ego here.
Well, want my rig, reliable.
And need it do as an aging vet.
Always set rigs for longevity. Folks saw the depression. I ride into deserts that at 70, I can no longer jog out of. Truth, if you look, our demographics are aging.

Really, I feel, I am returning to my roots... save for a fkg Calif Auto trans for a mere 5.4. I grew up w gears.

 

As you have a 4.6 & I a 5.4, there are possibly, differences .. but in the same generation, very likely, some similar problems, and solutions. I learned what I NEEDED TO FIGURE IT ALL OUT, here. So shall you.

[QUOTE=GRF150;7195732]Wait a minute....

what year is this truck/vehicle we are speaking about ?

KH 709 is a "supply" heater hose for the 5.4 L 10th Gen F150 not the 4.6 L.

there should be clamps on both ends of the hose....

So to summarize: the 5.4 L 10th gen F150 has 3 heater hoses: KH 735 (return), KH709 (supply hose), KH 733 (inlet)
4.6 L only has: KH 733 (supply hose) & KH 735 (return) .
So where is the "supply hose" for the 4.6 L 10th gen F150 ?
[QUOTE]

 

I was picking one out of the list that BBXL provided the link for. I apologize if that's the wrong truck.

 

Looks like the intake / heater hose setup I have is a touch different. What you cannot see in the photo is the metal pipe that runs in the valley under the intake manifold. (That might be the third heater hose mentioned earlier.) [One hose goes to the metal pipe the other goes to the intake manifold.] Is there a good nipple I can clamp a standard heater hose to at the firewall? {Granted I can force the restrictor into the new hose.}
Picture of 1999 f150 5.4 auto, engine removed focusing on heater hoses.

 

Here's a 2000 4.6L

KH 735 pictured.

 

Anyone know how complicated it is to unhook KH 733 coming from heater core ?
there has to be one heater hose connector and quick release clamps on the end that attaches to engine.
I was looking into doing a heater core flush from here.
It's easier without worrying about messing with heater hose connectors.

 

Fairly simple with one of these:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7769140?

 

Two sides have to be pinched inward. Seeing this tool, you can see why long handled, right angle needle nose pliers can also work. That's what I saw used when mine blew out of town. It's a bit of an awkward reach to get to the quick connectors.

And my '01 5.4 only had 2 hoses. I used the "opportunity" to have all hoses and the belt replaced, and I think the idler etc.

 

This ^^^..... Best post, the guys in the link were thinking straight as well.

Personally IME , - deleted the restrictor at about 155,000 back in 06/07. Bottle necking the system shouldn't of been required imo....it helped with the source issue. Eliminated an electrolysis issue early on...the cores integrity remained in tact....for 360,000 miles anyway. The original cooling system components are still in place....other than, -t-stat, core hoses (2), coolant.. and rad drain plug.

Electrolysis can be the devil here which may weaken components in the system. Most of these trucks will suffer some level of this, -and corrosion repercussions. It's not an easy one to eliminate....can be done though

Regardless, handling the cause issue early on made all the difference ime.

 

Thx Brew & White!!!
I'll note, having read that there were also cabin noise complaints due to the, then, high flow rate.

Mobile home water heaters have a replaceable $13 anode. Considering adding one.