I have all other lights and high beams, but no regular low beam headlights.

Can it really be that both headlights blew at the same exact time? Last I checked they were both working. I started the truck about 20 minutes ago, turned on the head lights, everything was working fine, drove two houses and then boom, nothing. They just shut off (all other running lights were working fine).

I did a quick search and they said to check 30 amp fuse #3 under the hood, and that's fine. Any other fuse that controls just the low beams? High beams work like a champ, but I'm going to **** off a lot of people driving around that way.

 

There are also some fuses inside the cab for headlights to if I'm not mistaken, might want to check those too. After, your best bet is to pull a headlight out (super easy to pull, just pop up the two tabs and it'll slide right out.) and test for power at the connector.
After that, pop the switch and check for power there.

 

Thanks TLB, do you know what fuses I should check inside the cab? I don't have an owner's manual.

 

Hi.

You did not say which model year truck you have - fuse locations may be different.

On a MY 2000 truck: fuses # 26 ( right Low beam) and # 28 ( left low beam). Both are 10A fuses. In the Passenger compartment fuse box. If BOTH heads are out and the fuses check out okay, suspect yer headlight switch ( or possibly your MFS ).

(How are you checking fuses? Visually is not the correct way - you need to probe the test pins on the back with a meter or test light.)

Get a manual here: https://www.motorcraftservice.com/vd...il/default.asp

Click on 'Owner Guides' on the left, fill in yer truck info. View and/or download the PDF.

MGD

 

Thanks MGD, I have a 2001 F150 Offroad. I'll check fuses 26 and 28. What is the MFS? Looks like these headlight switches have issues (seems like other people have had problems too), but it seems it's usually no headlights at all when the switch goes. I still have all lights, including high beams. I guess it could still be the switch though.

 

Thanks for the help and suggestions. It was the bulbs themselves that went bad. I find it odd that they literally both crapped out at the same time, but I guess stranger things have happened.

I picked up a set of Sylvania zXe Silverstar bulbs, and they're an awesome upgrade over what was in there. I was recommended a phillips or ge bulb in a different thread, but the place I went to didn't carry them. I'm really happy with the results. Nice bright light, and a good upgrade for a relatively inexpensive cost.



That said... The guy that designed the coolant overflow tank ought to be shot. The drivers side bulb too me about an hour to replace. I had to unbolt the shroud that covers the gap between the radiator and cross support, unbolt the overflow tank, and take off the air box, and even then I could only barely get my hand to the back of the headlight to change it. What a garbage design.

 

the next time you need to change bulbs, i think it would be easier just to remove the whole headlamp (atleast the driver side one if its giving you trouble)

 

Hi.

Couple things.

First - you owe the designers an apology. In Post #4 above I gave you a link to yer Owner's Guide. In that Guide, on page #250, there is a complete description of the easy & simple procedure to removing the heads to change the bulbs - takes all of a minute or two. You can Thank the designers for that. On some vehicles you need to remove the freakin' front clip/bumper. I am frankly stunned that you went through all that disassembly ... needlessly ... and then laid blame on someone else.... lmao.

Second - zXe's are no brighter than any of the other bulbs - even the Manufacturer says so. Refer to this chart - Lu an MSCP ratings are identical for all bulbs listed - only the Kelvin is different for the zXe, giving you the perception of brighter light. Fact is, they aren't. And worse - yer current housings are holding some of it back.

Those specs are indicative of the output from the other manufacturers too - you are limited by the mandated restriction on input power. a FRESH Standard bulb would have also made a clear difference - bulbs start to age & dim a soon as you begin using them.

https://www.sylvania.com/en-us/appli...partnumber=H13

Additionally the zXe has poor life expectancy - plan on bulb changes annually. I'd carry spares.

Lastly - perhaps spend some quality time with the manual - wouldn't want you removing the pickup bed to change a taillight or cutting off the roof to change a dome lamp. .

j/k ... j/k

Seriously - glad you found the problem. That is rather odd.

good luck

MGD

 

1) I owe the designers no such apology. A simple redesign of the over-flow tank would have precluded a ridiculous amount of hassle. I would have been glad to take the complete headlamp assembly out, if It would have been obvious from the start that it would have been the faster route. It wasn't. If any number of things would have been different about the over-flow tank, the job would have been a 5-10 minute ordeal.

2) I don't care if the measure of brightness is higher or not, the fact of the matter is the "perception" is all that matters. I can see further and I have a broader field of view with my new bulbs, that's all I really care about. I don't care if the bulbs are the same on some scale. As long as the street results are better visibility, that's good enough for me. Practical results is what I'm interested in, and that's what I got.

3) I could care less that my housings are "holding my current bulbs back," the fact of the matter is, my current bulbs perform better than they did with stock bulbs. That's good enough for me.

 

Not very good with advice are ya.