Yea, I figured you were kinduh old

jk


First reason was, - they are cheap, they use to be a 100 bucks cheaper than they are now. OBX has been around for awhile now, but it use to be just Pacesetter and Dynatech. Back then Dynatech's were out of reach for quite a few, still are being what, 800 bucks or so. They still remain #1 and preferred. They are absolutely not OBX's and worth the extra IMO.

Pacesetter must use a aluminized steel. Just welded a set up (a gash in #1 primary). They welded up perfectly, - one pass, had only 2 shallow pin holes to fill. On the inside, - no rust..none! Just carbon as you would expect. On the outside, a very thin coat of surface rust. They weren't even pitted to the point were I would need to wire wheel them before welding them up. I've had these headers since 07.

Recently and I think Carcrazy seen this as well. Someone in Engine builders posted his set of OBX's that were rusted far worse than Pacesetters get. I didn't get any close-ups but the OBX's looked blotchy, cancered with the worst kind of rust. The kind that compromises integrity. -Deeply pitted, the metal was getting eaten. I should also say, I've never seen OBX's look that bad.

Pacesetters 3" dia. LONG slip fit collectors are a bonus as far as I'm concerned. The more room you have there, - were the primaries come together the better...for performance IMO. Whether Aspirated or NA. IF they are brought together correctly. OBX's are prone to leaking at the flange, Dynatec has the best flange set IMO.

What you hear going around is from people who don't know ENOUGH of what they are talking about. Bad info can be like a plague...specially if it sounds good. I haven't worked with the OBX's, but I quetion how their made..after seeing how bad they can rust. I do know the Pacesetters now and they weather the winter here.

BTW, - There's been a few reports of the Pacesetter collectors cracking. Oh they'll break alright IF the why or system is stressed. Just like the OBX's will leak under the same conditions. There's no getting away from that if the system isn't installed correctly. Doesn't matter what you use, - has to be stress free.

 

yeah slip fit maybe better for not leaking but is a total pain if you have to take things apart again. But to each their own

Both headers have their pro's and cons i guess.

 

Does Dynatech sell 4x4 headers or do you still have to take a hammer to them?

 

Never heard of hammering DT's. I have heard of that with some of the 4.6L 4X4's only. Something about headers coming in contact with the D-shaft.

BTW- A tip. Don't ever weld on the headers with your O2's plugged in. I had EVERYTHING disconnected but O2's. With the headers, the O2's are further downstream of course. Out of site , out of mind. Yea I forgot about them and fried coil drivers 4, 5, 6 and 8. Just noid lighted the circuits and the PCM is no longer grounding them. The solid state switches are toast, - need a PCM, - no other fix.

 

Ya, that's the issue, I've heard the front DS contacts piping because the Lightning/2wd headers are the same as the 4x4s

Wow...sorry sir for the thread hi-jack

 

Yea, that doesn't matter..as far as performance. I'd rather have a bolted flange set up w/pacesetter collectors, if it were an option.

When OBX stated making headers, they ONLY offered short 2.5" collectors which sucked! lol. They new this,- eventually they offered the 3" collectors. That was good or better, but still they didn't have the collector length of the Pacesetters. The Pacestters are the longest LT's know to man for these trucks. Better scavenging, specially for NA. If the rest sytem jives with the factory tune, - it makes no sense to tune because "lean" isn't really a factor. They run leaner, but not enough to warrant a tune. Hell, these headers don't effect OX/CARB compliency. Meaning your still withing factory tuned programmed parameters IF the install is tight.

Absolutely NO low end loose, - no loose all gain when configured correctly. In fact that 5four dead spot at part throttle is much less apparent. That's also apparent with the before and after vids I've posted many times. Proved a 6 second gain 0-80 gain w/factory tune.

 

We are on topic..well close enough IMO anyway lol. Helps to know this stuff, specially for others who happen along this one.

 

Alot also has to deal with the next 18" pipe size. I run full 3" and being N/A I watched the torque move up 600rpm from switching from stock style manifolds and 2.5" exhaust to L/T's with full 3" exhaust.

 

Yea, I tried that, didn't work for me and with the factory tune. I was told that was going to happen, but I had to see for myself back then. In fact, the truck couldn't get out of it's own way lol.

So, I went back to 2.5". The truck flew! Well, in comparison to the 3" (Offroad pipe). I was going to bump it up to 3" cat back. But with the headers and factory tune, it made more sense to keep the factory set up (2.5). The only change in the Y was incorporating mandrel bends. It was a must since Fords Y went down to 2.25 at the bend. The bend at the D-side downstream O2. Truck was fast, for a truck, LOTS faster..6 seconds

 

Yea, went with this set up first, -



Didn't work out well lol.