I will be removing my rusty, leaky exhaust manifolds as soon as the weather breaks here in NJ. I am getting things ready now to make life easier. I dont know what the best gaskets to get are for headers and collector area. They are pacesetter shorties and the motor is a 2000 4.6 Also, after all is done and it is time to fire it up, I know I will have to re tighten the header bolts after a while. Are we talking after idling in the driveway for an hour or after driving it for a week? Any hints or tips are appreciated.

 

I ended up just using the gaskets that came with the replacement Dorman factory header and it was fine. The gaskets that came with the paceSetters (I have them too) look good, and probably are fine. I've not retorqued my manifolds since I put them on, but I did check and they remained torqued to spec, it won't hurt though!

The truck is getting the studs out, its not so bad really! I ended up having to weld some nuts onto some of the broken studs but they backed out easy enough after that. And sawzall the connector bolts (2) from the header to downpipe. Just get in there and tackle it, I don't think that soaking the studs for a week ahead of time really did anything for me.

 

I got these from a buddy who lost the gaskets, so I need to buy a new set. I just didn't know if ones from the parts house were as good as Motorcraft parts. Maybe I should go one step further and get them from a performance shop or seller?

 

I wouldn't over think it. Exhaust gaskets aren't exactly a critical part. I would think a parts house gasket would be fine for this.

 

I'll help you out.

Although I would never install shorties over factory manifolds, unless they were free (since they won't hurt anything) you MUST use header gaskets or they will leak. I promise you.

I know much about the subject and Pacesetters specifically very well. Best you can do is use Pacesetter gaskets. These are cheap gaskets that you use Permatex ultra copper with the install. But they will never leak as long as you torque the header properly. If you can't locate their HG's, hopefully 3rd party gaskets will work. In this case you would want silicon header gaskets, more less coated paper gaskets, nothing fancy. But must be used with headers since the high dollar double and triple metal gaskets will usually leak.

They must be torqued from the center out, -or they will leak regardless of gaskets used. You also confirm torque again after the first 3 heat cycles.

Also, before mounting the Pacesetters you better do this, - Start the Pacesetter header bolts in each thread chamber at the heads. Run them in 3 turns and stop. Remove the bolts, flush the thread chambers with brake cleaner and use compressed air to flush all existing shavings from the chambers.

If you choose to skip this step, I promise you, -you will most definitely screw up the install in a very bad way. Not kidding, not one bit. In other words, follow this info perfectly and you won't experience the grief it just saved you.

One of the first installs I've done with Pacesetters. These are different from yours, nobody I know would waste their time with shorties. Since Pacesetter LT headers offers so much more in comparison... anyway. However the flange set up is the same on all their header builds, -

 

I was only installing the headers because they were dirt cheap and brand new. They didn't come with bolts either, so I picked up a set of stainless steel studs and nuts. Do the shorties do anything above what a stock manifold would? I was hoping for a little more towing power.

 

Good luck getting those to work. You might get them to work in one or two holes. You'll need header bolts for the rest. If the primaries on the shorties are designed to protrude straight out from the heads, more so than the LT's, you might get a few more in.

No, definitely no low end improvement. Part of the reason they aren't used on these engines. No good for the low end or mid range however, you get a little improvement very high up into the rpms. Not really usable.

This was determined long ago on the dyno. This info should still be out there on tuner forums and f150 forums. Mustang forums as well.

Now you know why they were cheap.

EDIT: So you don't get the wrong idea, shorties never showed a decrease in low end or mid-range. Only nothing gained. Like i mentioned earlier, they don't hurt anything. But you need to get the correct hardware for the install...I don't think your there yet.

 

Thanks for the input and the tips. I am beginning to rethink this project. Maybe a stock replacement is the way to go. I'd cut my work in at least half by doing just the rusted out side. It's gonna cost me an additional $40 for the gaskets and bolts, so I may as well just put that towards another manifold and sell the headers.

 

That's what I would do, go with a Dorman kit.