Flareside bed "step pad" removal?
#1
Now an XLT in Colorado
Thread Starter
Flareside bed "step pad" removal?
I know the "step pads" are held in place by plastic clips, and I also know they can be rather easily broken when being removed, requiring the pads to be replaced. Does anyone know a "safe" method for removal that minimizes the risk of tab breakage?
Also, can the rear "step pad" be removed without taking the bumper off?
Thanks in advance,
Andy
Also, can the rear "step pad" be removed without taking the bumper off?
Thanks in advance,
Andy
#2
Senior Member
I just removed the rear bumper pads yesterday. I managed not to break any of the tabs, but it was an absolute bear to get them off. First I sprayed them with penetrating oil to soften and make them slippery. Then I used a good set of slip joint pliers, a pair of needle nose (bigger), a set of smaller needle nose pliers, and two large screwdrivers. It might work with 2 people, leaving the bumper on, but I doubt if you would save it with just one person and trying to remove it.
Flareside/Screws both use the same bumper pads. Super Cab use another number. F/S's use YL3Z 17B807 AA and YL3Z 17B807 AB pads (R & L).
There are 8 tabs and an end clip on each side of the pads, and the two license plate mounting tabs. The left side has the hole for the tire shaft, so it is a bit tougher, because it has to pop out of the hole. Otherwise, its a lot of squeezing and prying and poking with a screwdriver. Hope this helps. Good luck.
Flareside/Screws both use the same bumper pads. Super Cab use another number. F/S's use YL3Z 17B807 AA and YL3Z 17B807 AB pads (R & L).
There are 8 tabs and an end clip on each side of the pads, and the two license plate mounting tabs. The left side has the hole for the tire shaft, so it is a bit tougher, because it has to pop out of the hole. Otherwise, its a lot of squeezing and prying and poking with a screwdriver. Hope this helps. Good luck.
Last edited by akdoggie; 08-17-2016 at 09:14 PM.
#3
Now an XLT in Colorado
Thread Starter
Thanks for the quick reply. I should have clarified that I'm referring ot the steps in the side of the flareside bed, although they and the pads you removed appear to be held in in the same manner.
The reason for my question is this...
The scratch (gouge, really) is down to the fiberglass. I can get it fixed for free, but it entails *me* doing the R&R on the steps, fuel filler door, bed rail protector, mud flap, wheel-well moulding, tonneau cover, and (maybe?) the bumper, as well as stripping off the stripes and 4x4 decal. (The stripes and decal are no big deal, as they'll eventually be replaced with black ones anyway.) The shop would then repair the damaged area, blend the color, and clear the entire bed side.
It's a fair amount of work, and there's no guarantee I won't break clips and have to replace parts, plus repainted surfaces never hold up as well as the factory paint. (There's also the possibility that the bed with the new clear will no longer match the door.) I'm starting to think I might just used a bit of filler and touch-up paint and call it a day.
Andy
The reason for my question is this...
The scratch (gouge, really) is down to the fiberglass. I can get it fixed for free, but it entails *me* doing the R&R on the steps, fuel filler door, bed rail protector, mud flap, wheel-well moulding, tonneau cover, and (maybe?) the bumper, as well as stripping off the stripes and 4x4 decal. (The stripes and decal are no big deal, as they'll eventually be replaced with black ones anyway.) The shop would then repair the damaged area, blend the color, and clear the entire bed side.
It's a fair amount of work, and there's no guarantee I won't break clips and have to replace parts, plus repainted surfaces never hold up as well as the factory paint. (There's also the possibility that the bed with the new clear will no longer match the door.) I'm starting to think I might just used a bit of filler and touch-up paint and call it a day.
Andy
Last edited by OhioLariat; 08-17-2016 at 10:53 PM.
#4
Senior Member
The side step caps are also clipped on. A wide enough tool, flat like a hoe, but straight, might work to pry up slowly and it might pop off that way. I haven't removed mine yet, but will be pulling the rears off for sure to fix some damage on mine right there also. I can't find anywhere how to really pull those. I've looked before and the flat tool was by far the best idea I saw. Good luck. Let us know if you get yours off in one piece.
#5
Senior Member
#6
Now an XLT in Colorado
Thread Starter
I decided to see what I was up against, and was able to get the rear pad off easily at lunch. A standard trim-removal tool and a slim piece of wood to protect the paint whilst prying was all that was needed, and the bumper stays in place. On to the front pad and bed-rail protector tonight. If they're simple enough, I'll have the bed professionally repaired.
Andy
P.S. Klinger.
Andy
P.S. Klinger.