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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 12:24 AM
  #11  
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So my automatic door locks on my 2000 gradually got weaker since I got the truck. Its to the point now that they only lock the passenger door after like 3-4 clicks. I posted a thread about this issue and got some responses. I haven't made the fix as yet, but MoreCowbell gave me a tip that seems like it would work wonders.

Here's his post:

I just had the same problem on my 2001 F150 and fixed it by replacing both actuators. They are Dormans, they have a lifetime warranty and were less than $30 a piece from Rockauto.com.

If you do replace them there is a trick that makes it MUCH easier than most people know. Look at the outside of the door latch where the striker goes into. There is a very narrow slot at the bottom. Stick a small screwdriver in the middle of it and angle it so that it is pointing slightly towards the outside of the door. Now smack the screwdriver a few times with your hand. What you are trying to do it push in a tab on the actuator and get it to slide sideways off the latch mechanism at the same time. (remove the door panel before doing any of this)

Once the actuator is slid off the latch, just disconnect the wire connector. Do not try to remove the whole latch/actuator assembly. You will go insane trying.
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 10:08 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by me1234
Stangbang thanks for the input. I'll have to rememer that anti-theft trick, is there any specific tuner that needs to be used(I dont know much about tuners so idk if anti-theft options are standard)
I used an SCT tuner, not sure if that function is available to everyone. The shop that made my tune was nice enough to turn that off when I came back for with the anti theft issue for free.

I showed up to the ford dealer and loaded up my new tune and the truck fired right up. They were a little surprised lol.
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 10:10 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by me1234
So my automatic door locks on my 2000 gradually got weaker since I got the truck. Its to the point now that they only lock the passenger door after like 3-4 clicks. I posted a thread about this issue and got some responses. I haven't made the fix as yet, but MoreCowbell gave me a tip that seems like it would work wonders.

Here's his post:

I just had the same problem on my 2001 F150 and fixed it by replacing both actuators. They are Dormans, they have a lifetime warranty and were less than $30 a piece from Rockauto.com.

If you do replace them there is a trick that makes it MUCH easier than most people know. Look at the outside of the door latch where the striker goes into. There is a very narrow slot at the bottom. Stick a small screwdriver in the middle of it and angle it so that it is pointing slightly towards the outside of the door. Now smack the screwdriver a few times with your hand. What you are trying to do it push in a tab on the actuator and get it to slide sideways off the latch mechanism at the same time. (remove the door panel before doing any of this)

Once the actuator is slid off the latch, just disconnect the wire connector. Do not try to remove the whole latch/actuator assembly. You will go insane trying.
Mine did the same thing, I had some 2011 or 2012 Lincoln navigator door latches and actuators kicking around. I put those in and they work like a charm. The wiring is a bit different and I didn't I hook up the function to have the dome lights come on when the doors open
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 01:41 PM
  #14  
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Default Try this link for odometer fixes

So in an effort to keep this thread alive I figured I'd search around and post links to threads where many thanks where given and many people said the information helps worked. If I find some information that won't be too difficult to copy and past, I'll just copy their post(along with the name of the user who posted it, gotta give them credit for the fix).

Here's a good thread I just found for odometer fixes.

https://www.f150forum.com/f75/97-03-odometer-fix-93814/
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 01:48 PM
  #15  
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Default All about exhaust

This thread's already stickied in the engine section, but I figured I'd post it anyway. It has great discussion about exhaust systems and how they work in relation to the engine.


https://www.f150forum.com/f11/exhaus...re-myth-78102/
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 12:49 AM
  #16  
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Just bumpin the thread
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Old Aug 21, 2012 | 03:25 PM
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Credit to this trick goes to L8nitecrwler. These are instructions I he gave on another thread on how to make your fog lights stay on with your highbeams and low beams.

heres his quote. Hopefully the pics work. Sorry in advance if they dont.

this is just for anyone else who is looking to do the same thing



This is how it is done with 2004-2006 Ford F-150s:
First, disconnect your battery.

http://www.landstromsfoundry.com/Tec...ht/Fuse
Box.jpg Behind the passenger kick panel on your late-model F-150 is your fuse box. Pull the access cover off, locate the relay in the top center and pull it out. http://www.landstromsfoundry.com/Tec...ight/Relay.jpg To make your fog lights stay on with the high beams, you need to provide a permanent ground to one of the pins. At your work bench carefully bend over the tab you see in the photo above. Try to be gentle but bend it over so that it nearly folds over on itself and follows the contour of the relay case. Then get a length of wire (I used 20g) and crimp on a female blade and stick it and the attached wire on the relay pin you folded over. When you're done you'll have what you see in the photo above. http://www.landstromsfoundry.com/Tec...ht/FuseBox.jpg Before you push the relay back into the fusebox, use a side-cutter to nibble away or notch the plastic to the right side of the relay socket on the fusebox to gain clearance for the folded over pin. Then pop in your relay and make certain that it is secure. http://www.landstromsfoundry.com/Tec...ght/Ground.jpg Now locate the green grounding bolt located below and rearward of the fusebox. You'll want to pull the door kicker panel partially out to gain clearance for more space to work in (that pannel has two two clips: pull straight back and the panel will lift out of the way). Route the lose wire coming off of your relay behind the big electrical plug on the rightside (rearward) of the fuse box, cut off the excess wire and crimp on an eyelet. Remove the green grounding bolt and reinstall the bolt with your grounding wire.
Button the two panels you pulled out of the way back up, and then connect your battery. You're done and should feel pretty good about yourself because your fog lights will now stay on with the high beams!
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Old Aug 21, 2012 | 03:39 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by me1234
Credit to this trick goes to L8nitecrwler. These are instructions I he gave on another thread on how to make your fog lights stay on with your highbeams and low beams.

heres his quote. Hopefully the pics work. Sorry in advance if they dont.

this is just for anyone else who is looking to do the same thing

This is how it is done with 2004-2006 Ford F-150s:
First, disconnect your battery.

http://www.landstromsfoundry.com/Tec...ht/Fuse
Box.jpg Behind the passenger kick panel on your late-model F-150 is your fuse box. Pull the access cover off, locate the relay in the top center and pull it out. http://www.landstromsfoundry.com/Tec...ight/Relay.jpg To make your fog lights stay on with the high beams, you need to provide a permanent ground to one of the pins. At your work bench carefully bend over the tab you see in the photo above. Try to be gentle but bend it over so that it nearly folds over on itself and follows the contour of the relay case. Then get a length of wire (I used 20g) and crimp on a female blade and stick it and the attached wire on the relay pin you folded over. When you're done you'll have what you see in the photo above. http://www.landstromsfoundry.com/Tec...ht/FuseBox.jpg Before you push the relay back into the fusebox, use a side-cutter to nibble away or notch the plastic to the right side of the relay socket on the fusebox to gain clearance for the folded over pin. Then pop in your relay and make certain that it is secure. http://www.landstromsfoundry.com/Tec...ght/Ground.jpg Now locate the green grounding bolt located below and rearward of the fusebox. You'll want to pull the door kicker panel partially out to gain clearance for more space to work in (that pannel has two two clips: pull straight back and the panel will lift out of the way). Route the lose wire coming off of your relay behind the big electrical plug on the rightside (rearward) of the fuse box, cut off the excess wire and crimp on an eyelet. Remove the green grounding bolt and reinstall the bolt with your grounding wire.
Button the two panels you pulled out of the way back up, and then connect your battery. You're done and should feel pretty good about yourself because your fog lights will now stay on with the high beams!
Oops this is for 2004-2006. My bad
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 11:21 PM
  #19  
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How to fix ur dash cupholder if it's stuck or the spring broke.

https://www.f150forum.com/f74/how-ge...g-broke-21498/
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Old Sep 7, 2012 | 12:50 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by me1234
How to fix ur dash cupholder if it's stuck or the spring broke.

https://www.f150forum.com/f74/how-ge...g-broke-21498/
Credit goes to raif281 for this fix
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