Tractive55LS

" at the end, uknow, - around exactly what your referring to.

It's somethen to do with forum etiquette, - if you give a rats snot that is. Prsonally, I really don't give a frogs fat *** to tell the truth...IF you couldn't guess, -but you might one day.

You can also, -just skip that craps all together and split her up thiz way, -

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Cam-covers or Valve-covers?

What is says of the cam cover's (they're really not valve covers on SOHC and DOHC motors. Users still know what your referring to, -and you're correct, -but valve covers is old school more less as that happened before OHC's were in the picture. ..just so you know.) can have nothing to do with the heads really. Just unwrap that friggen engine would yuh, what's holding you back ? You waiting for Christmas

Yea, the cam cover sticker is a good hint for you, but to confirm, you have to get the info off the heads.

BTW- I didn't say look at the block, - said look at the heads or at least that's what I meant. Exactly like the picture I posted.
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That's cool on the Carfax and fuel tank stuff
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With Macs you have to do integrated backups or do manually (which sucks and you forget) But there's away..actually quite a few ways to protect your mail for a PC and Mac. PM me about that.

Good deal on the tranny mount. You'll see why after removing the old and comparing to the new. A bad tranny mount will snap your exhaust studs like a twig lol. When they go bad the trans sinks and pulls the Y with it. That stresses the rear studs. Also a bad tranny mount will make it's own vibration issues which involve exhaust manifold studs and anywhere else the vibration transfers to..like your cat heat shields....etc..
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Never heard of NGK IX's. I'll take your word for it.

Yea, I'm curious how many threads you have in the plug chambers as well.
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Iduno, might not want to strip all the 03 stuff from the engine yet. It me be easier to compare it with the 98 harness that way. Leave one intact until you have to remove would be best IMO. And that would be the 03 of course. Yea, you want to see how much of that 03 harness you can use. Use all the 03 stuff you can. If somethings different between the two, then use the 98 just where the change is...know what I mean ? Don't get stuck in a rut later because you screwed up somehow here, there might not be much help later if you do. Cover your *** and take lots of pictures with just about every thing you do...before and after. That can be a lifesaver or in this case an engine.
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Depends, you'll have to look at it. Ford updated that connection on their re-manufactured engines. Actually there's a picture of that in every Chilton's manual if you own one. Never use Chilton/Haynes for anything if you can help it...but yea they have a pic in there. So the 03 may be upgraded. If it's upgraded then yes, there will be a rubber hose connecting to the water pump stem. If not, the heater core hardline will slide over two o rings on the stem. Yea I'm not sure if that upgrade ever went into production...should have, -it was a poor design.

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Looks good, like I said before as long as your 75% within the highest reading. 75% of 180 is what 135psi so your good. Numbers are great!




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Well. I'm not a computer guru. Not to familiar with all the advanced icons and how to use them. I did figure out the attachments one though.

The motor is sitting in the garage on a pallet inside a tire. I currently have no way to lift it out. I'm a full time 24/7/365 caregiver, so I'll be having a local private shop do the actual swap. I'm a mechanic mostly by trade though. I need though to know everything necessary (as we've talked about) for it to be done right and have all the parts lined up and ready to install. I'll prep the engine with all new gaskets and seals before I find a way to get it over there. Normally I'd do this all myself, but Mom comes first! I will be an integral part of the project every step of the way, be live me. I can't just drop in there hands without knowing everything I need to. Luckily they prefer Fords overall and it's one of those shops you could eat off the floor at. Lets just say I've got a few plates full of life right now, also repairing the house and property before winter hits.

Pulling those exhaust manifolds on the 03' ought to be fun??? At least it will be a heck of a lot easier than in the truck, I'm just going to cut those collector bolts right off. I plan on selling the OE 98' 5.4L after I'm sure everything works great with the new 03' but will wait a while to make sure. Wonder whats it's worth, maybe a machine shop will buy it? Still runs great, just no *****, very black oil even after just 5000k change. I'm going to use the rope trick to make sure the valves don't fall into the engine while replacing the valve stem seals and TDCing each cyl. Already have the spring depression tool I got from Summit for $39.00 a while back.

This shop is going to swap them out for $1200.00 + depending on what they run across. EST: $1200.00 for the newer 03'. $600.00 for new cats assemblies and additional parts and fluids as needed. Still thousands less than the Ford dealer wanted overall. A new dealer reman was about $4-5 grand plus 2k to install and any extra parts. This is the first time I've had to relinquish a project to other hands, but I have no choice this time.

I'll take pics first from every angle before removing. As I thought I'd been hearing "none of the 03 electronics are compatible" I think the digital camera is one of the greatest tools a mechanic could have and use mine extensively to go back and see how something was before working on it. It has helped immensely over the past 8 years since I switched to digital from film.

NGK IX is on the Rockauto site, under 03' F150 5.4L gas.

My Mac-mail direct to my computer and is on the application bar. It automatically stores all email on my I-mac as it comes in. Very easy to use, just click the ail icon and there's your mail.

I'll check on that Ford intake gasket. Got lucky, and l already had a new set of Felpro cam cover gaskets in the back seat of the truck.

Tractive55LS

The ECT is the same on both model years: 98' & 03' MC #SW 5130 so it should plug right in accept now on the diver side front of the motor instead of the engine valley head threaded boss. I'll have to extend that connector. I ordered all the gaskets, seals, plugs etc. from RA.

I went with the Felpro PermaDry intakes gasket set $58.00. The Ford dealer only sells each gasket separately, not in a set? Strange, who would ever install just one gasket? Besides, their price was about $100.00 w/t.

Plugs: NGK #7146 Iridium IX.

I'll wait a bit on the EGR tube until I remove the 03' exhaust manifolds and tube, then I can slide it along side the 98' to see any difference. With the shorty headers: JBA SST coated. I'll bet the 03' EGR tube will be the right fit given the same headers fit both engines and hence have the EGR threaded boss in the same place. I'm guessing the 03's EGR valve is located lower that the 98's, going from aluminum to plastic compost intake?

I also installed a Coleman 6 watt (400 mA) solar charger $50.00 to sit on the dash, plugged into the un-switched lighter outlet. The parasitic drags on the battery have drawn it down to dead twice now in a months worth on non-use. Last winter when it was -30 F the battery froze solid after loosing it's charge. I got a prorated new interstate MTP-65 installed then in Dec. After having it drawn down a second time a few weeks ago I don't want any more battery issues. I charged it back up over night 4 hrs. @ 10 amps, then 12 hrs. @ 2 amps, came back up to 13.22 volts. Was going to use a battery tender but all the wires hooked up to the garage was to much hassle. The solar unit just unplugs and goes in the back seat when using the truck.

Jbrew

Uh no they're not. Since you don't seem to listen very well, not much I can do for yuh.. Hell ,-I've tried repeating things twice even lol

Take care.

Tractive55LS

Well then, "Rock Auto" has it wrong? ECTS: Electronic Coolant Temperature Sensor

s Guide: MOTORCRAFT SW5130 Temperature Sender / Sensor
FORD E-150 (1996 - 2008)
FORD E-250 (1996 - 2008)
FORD E-350 (1996 - 2008)
FORD E-450 (2000 - 2008)
FORD E-550 (2002 - 2003)
FORD EXCURSION (2000 - 2005)
FORD EXPEDITION (1997 - 2002)
FORD F-150 (1997 - 2008)
FORD F-150 HERITAGE 2004
FORD F-250 SUPER DUTY (1999 - 2008)
FORD

Jbrew

No, they're right, your wrong lol. Like I said, for the 5.4L's = NO ECT since 99. Sure, other F150's had them...with diff power plants.

Tractive55LS

Hmm, I just read somewhere that the ECT on an 03' 5.4 was on the front drivers side of the engine. Maybe it was bad info or another engine. So 'll have to use t-fitting on a coolant hose somewhere as mentioned before. In any event I will find a place for it, even if I have to drill a hole and tap into the block somewhere? I'll get it hooked up properly. The weather hasn't been very cooperative in quite some time, it's delaying all our home repair projects and 3 car repair jobs to including the truck.

Carcrazygts2

I drilled and tapped the aluminum crossover.

Tractive55LS

How thick was it, did you get enough threads for a tight fit?

Carcrazygts2

the aluminum cross over is around 1/4-5/16 thick. You have to use a npt tap. So it tapered. Its tight and doesnt leak. Also used Loctite PTFE thread sealent, not teflon tape.

Tractive55LS

This listing was under 03' Ford F150 5.4L (L) on the "Rock Auto" website for ECT. They must have gotten it wrong.