Electrical Fans
I just got home from SLC. I'll look some more in the morning. It looks like they killed my email address that I used to talk with him (we both had email addresses under the blueovalfanatics domain)..... I'll find his thread, or contact him somehow.
Take your time. If you can't find anything don't worry about it.
Still trying to google him.... I did find this though, which may interest you. Not the cleanest install.... but a reference.
https://www.f150forum.com/f6/how-ins...c-fans-174672/
https://www.f150forum.com/f6/how-ins...c-fans-174672/
If one has no experience doing a conversion from manual engine driven fan to electric, be warned there is more to it than meets the eye.
Some hints:
1. The stock fan moves more than 2500 cfm under thermostatic clutch control.
2. The electric system has to at least equal that performance.
3. Electric motors to turn 'Props' large enough and fast enough draw a lot of current at start-up.
4. The Lincoln Mk 7 system fan draws about 150 amps at initial start. I own a MK 7. 12 volts times 145 Amps = 1740 Wats. The vehicle system and Alternator needs that capacity and some spare, to be reliable plus battery capacity. If the battery is is being charged to long repeatedly, water loss is the result and short battery life expected.
5. There is need for an electric start controller to limit the start current.
6. The electrical wiring has to be heavy enough wire gage for the current, wire connections properly made, and supporting equipment that will not burn over time and fusing to handle the worst-case load requirements.
7. The Alternator and battery sizing become a factor and need to consider the rest of the vehicle power such as A/C, low speed and traffic stops cooling during driving, or you might find everything goes out at the wrong time.
8. FAN Shrouding to keep all the air on/through the radiator and the A/C Condenser cooling.
IMO it's not worth the hassle.
.
You have an engineering exercise to get perfect the first time.
Good luck.
Some hints:
1. The stock fan moves more than 2500 cfm under thermostatic clutch control.
2. The electric system has to at least equal that performance.
3. Electric motors to turn 'Props' large enough and fast enough draw a lot of current at start-up.
4. The Lincoln Mk 7 system fan draws about 150 amps at initial start. I own a MK 7. 12 volts times 145 Amps = 1740 Wats. The vehicle system and Alternator needs that capacity and some spare, to be reliable plus battery capacity. If the battery is is being charged to long repeatedly, water loss is the result and short battery life expected.
5. There is need for an electric start controller to limit the start current.
6. The electrical wiring has to be heavy enough wire gage for the current, wire connections properly made, and supporting equipment that will not burn over time and fusing to handle the worst-case load requirements.
7. The Alternator and battery sizing become a factor and need to consider the rest of the vehicle power such as A/C, low speed and traffic stops cooling during driving, or you might find everything goes out at the wrong time.
8. FAN Shrouding to keep all the air on/through the radiator and the A/C Condenser cooling.
IMO it's not worth the hassle.
.
You have an engineering exercise to get perfect the first time.
Good luck.
I have seen a lot of opinions about efans on these trucks and everyone has had thier own experiences with this mod. Having said that, I figured I would share mine.
I purchased a custom dual 14" fan and shroud kit from CX Racing built specifically for our trucks. I also picked up a Davies Craig dual fan controller from Summit. Got it installed and the fans I purchased were very low CFM (like 1150cfm)
, so the truck would warm and almost overheat. I replaced those fans with high speed 2900 cfm fans and no more issues! With the A/C off the fans will drop the coolant temp from 202 to 190 in less than 10 minutes.
Overall I am super happy with the setup, especially the reduced noise from the loud manual fan. I am still early in the conversion, so my opinion could change! But nonetheless, excited for the results! Here are a couple pics of my setup.
I purchased a custom dual 14" fan and shroud kit from CX Racing built specifically for our trucks. I also picked up a Davies Craig dual fan controller from Summit. Got it installed and the fans I purchased were very low CFM (like 1150cfm)
, so the truck would warm and almost overheat. I replaced those fans with high speed 2900 cfm fans and no more issues! With the A/C off the fans will drop the coolant temp from 202 to 190 in less than 10 minutes.
Overall I am super happy with the setup, especially the reduced noise from the loud manual fan. I am still early in the conversion, so my opinion could change! But nonetheless, excited for the results! Here are a couple pics of my setup.
I first installed my setup on my blue 150, using the fan from a Taurus (didn't have the Mark fan), and used the Hayden thermo-controller set up with dual range speed settings. I did like Whitey and cut the framing on the Taurus fan and inserted it into the 150 fan shroud.
I like the way Whitey did the Volvo/BMW set up on his. I thought about doing it that way too. It's a very clean and inexpensive way to go. I just couldn't pass up everything from my buddy for $40. including the new Flexalite controller system, wiring, and Mark VIII fan. To top that off, I got a very clean 2-row HD radiator with the shroud to go with it. Next year maybe. LOL
I like the way Whitey did the Volvo/BMW set up on his. I thought about doing it that way too. It's a very clean and inexpensive way to go. I just couldn't pass up everything from my buddy for $40. including the new Flexalite controller system, wiring, and Mark VIII fan. To top that off, I got a very clean 2-row HD radiator with the shroud to go with it. Next year maybe. LOL
the issue with CFM ratings is typically an OE fan is measured with the condenser and radiator in place while aftermarket fans will rate flow with nothing in front of them (no restrictions), inflating the usable CFM.
The Lightning I had back in the day had the stock fan replaced with a flexalite dual fan set up. I had 2 issues - 1) the controller design at the time was bad, bought the updated controller and it was fine going forward. 2) the previous owner put the fan blades too far down the shaft so part of the fan blade assembly pressed against the motor - this created a drag and burned out one motor. Even though I was the second owner, had no receipt or anything Flexalite replaced parts either free or at very low cost. Again, once I put the new style controller on and properly installed the fan blades on the new motors it ran perfect in FL heat even with the intercooler and high boost levels.
I have a mark 8 fan in my mustang and the power draw is definitely an issue, I also see lightning guys running the Raptor fans but again, power consumption is a concern. i do not know the CFM difference of standard F150 vs raptor electric fans.
The Lightning I had back in the day had the stock fan replaced with a flexalite dual fan set up. I had 2 issues - 1) the controller design at the time was bad, bought the updated controller and it was fine going forward. 2) the previous owner put the fan blades too far down the shaft so part of the fan blade assembly pressed against the motor - this created a drag and burned out one motor. Even though I was the second owner, had no receipt or anything Flexalite replaced parts either free or at very low cost. Again, once I put the new style controller on and properly installed the fan blades on the new motors it ran perfect in FL heat even with the intercooler and high boost levels.
I have a mark 8 fan in my mustang and the power draw is definitely an issue, I also see lightning guys running the Raptor fans but again, power consumption is a concern. i do not know the CFM difference of standard F150 vs raptor electric fans.












