From your first post, - right away I thought you have a bad harness short somewhere.

twoskinsoneman, was sorta thinking the same about the GEM as I was. It's possible the GEM could have been contributing to problem, but all problems you were having didn't relate solely to that part IMO.

Your fuse slip up. That ones unfamiliar to me as well, but yea, going over your work when trying to determine fault is a great idea after awhile lol. It's good that you did! In fact, I might do it again, doesn't hurt.

That's weak for alternator put out. Should be around 14.4V IMO. That's also a hint.
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Bring it over, it would be much easier haha.

Anyway, yea, you have a good short somewhere. Not a bad ground, but a short to ground. - OR more than one bare wire coming into contact with another.

First thing, do as thorough of a inspection as you can visually, of the harness and look for damage and wire chaffing...anything that doesn't look right. Under the dash (drivers side) under the hood etc.

From there, you'll need a meter and test light. If you have a meter, I can give you a short Ford tutorial about electrical concerns and troubleshooting them. PM your email and I'll send it in a word doc.

 

[MENTION=113]Jbrew[/MENTION]

I don't know if you got it, I sent two messages and neither of them showed up in my sent folder?

 

Yea, I got the first one, - I sent it to you.

 

Great news!! I put in a different cluster and it works like a dream. The major problem I believe was the oil pressure pegged out and the battery gauge didn't move. Put in a different cluster, and voilagh. I need to figure out how to adjust the mileage to match my old cluster though, it's going to bug me and plus I would like it to match in case I ever decide to sell it.

 

To fix the mileage the speedo has to be taken apart and then recalibrated. Take it to a speedometer shop.

 

I doubt we have one around here. Closest thing is a stealership 80 miles away.

 

Huh, I wouldn't have guessed that. A bad PCB (cluster) usually ends up being a bad trace or cracked joint. That leaves the circuit inactive or dead. Your sender was pegged ... (oil p).

BUT, I would have found it eventually... - the last thing I check I expect lol.

Good Job! What did the old look like? Did you look lol. Any noticeable damage?

 

I didn't see any damage. I have no idea why the old one would have been bad? The connections were all tight on the old one... I have no clue why on earth it was the cluster. Oh well. Anyways, [MENTION=113]Jbrew[/MENTION] I need a schematic of the window switch wires. Driver side.

 

Yea, the only thing I've seen is a cracked solder joint. Very hard to see visually on PCB (board). Under a glass you may see a little carbon (trace), other than that, you need an analyzer to go over the board. I haven't acquired one of those toys yet lol.
Some have fixed them by reheating the joint and possibly adding a little solder (rosin core or silver bearing)..

Anyway, still need that diagram?

 

Yessir, I could use it. Going to test all of the wires and if that's not the case, on to either the motor or the switch.