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1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

dynamat for doors

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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 05:13 PM
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Default dynamat for doors

do u guys do inside the door like where the window is or just the part where the door panel is?
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 07:10 PM
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When I deaden my doors I put a few strips on the outer skin to prevent resonance then completely cover the part where the door panel attaches. i cover all gaps and holes. Don't forget to accommodate the handle bars and the like.
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 03:59 AM
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Originally Posted by cody6766
When I deaden my doors I put a few strips on the outer skin to prevent resonance then completely cover the part where the door panel attaches. i cover all gaps and holes. Don't forget to accommodate the handle bars and the like.
wats handle bars and like?
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 04:33 AM
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do the inner and outer door skin if you can, if you havnt purchased the dynamat yet i would suggest another brand, second skin is cheaer, thicker, better adhesive and lasts longer
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by loganberry
do the inner and outer door skin if you can, if you havnt purchased the dynamat yet i would suggest another brand, second skin is cheaer, thicker, better adhesive and lasts longer
yah thanks man i will look into that.
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 12:02 PM
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haha, sorry, that was worded pretty poorly. I haven't popped my door panels yet, but on my grand prix there are mechanical linkages between the handles that open the doors from the inside and the latch. It's a bar in many (if not all) cars. The power locks usually have the same bars hooked to the lock actuator and the lock mechanism on the door. You want these to move freely. A good way to do it is to wrap them in wire loom and then put your deadener over that. Be sure to test it before putting the doors back on and be sure there is no binding.

I too would recommend something other than dynamat. Use something like E-Dead or similar. Hell, if you can find Peel and Seal locally it works well too. It's thinner than car audio sound deadener and usually requires heat to stick really well, but it's usually cheap enough to double up. It's an asphalt, foil backed roofing material, almost exactly like sound deadeners. It also leaves no smell. I used it in a few installs and was very impressed.
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by cody6766
haha, sorry, that was worded pretty poorly. I haven't popped my door panels yet, but on my grand prix there are mechanical linkages between the handles that open the doors from the inside and the latch. It's a bar in many (if not all) cars. The power locks usually have the same bars hooked to the lock actuator and the lock mechanism on the door. You want these to move freely. A good way to do it is to wrap them in wire loom and then put your deadener over that. Be sure to test it before putting the doors back on and be sure there is no binding.

I too would recommend something other than dynamat. Use something like E-Dead or similar. Hell, if you can find Peel and Seal locally it works well too. It's thinner than car audio sound deadener and usually requires heat to stick really well, but it's usually cheap enough to double up. It's an asphalt, foil backed roofing material, almost exactly like sound deadeners. It also leaves no smell. I used it in a few installs and was very impressed.
not the case here, no bars on the outside of the door
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