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Old Nov 19, 2016 | 01:02 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by fordguy2100
go ahead and stick your hand in there, then come back and report lol. Yes theoretically smaller strips are fine but it's a moot point since you can't really get your hand in the door

Edit* looking at his picture yes you can probably get more in there but it won't be covering much more

Ive replaced door lock actuator, removed window , put new wires thru flex tube on door to body, etc.
Im pretty sure its not all that hard to stick squares of material against majority of outer skin

dynamat states you must cover a MINIMUM of 1/3 of the area to have a detectable improvement.

Crutchfield did a f150 and documented it with testing. I think they got 2 db reduction doing doors. About 10 db for whole vehicle interior, floor pan, etc. Which is significant but $$$ and hell of a lot of work.

Im thinking not really worth trouble.

New tires do at least as much.

Last edited by mbb; Nov 19, 2016 at 01:07 PM.
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Old Nov 19, 2016 | 01:12 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by blupupher
I used peal and seal on mine (doors only) and did not notice much difference overall. The doors have a little more solid sound when closing, but sound wise overall, nothing really different.

Honestly you didnt notice any difference because you only treated for vibrations, not noise cancellation. You also didnt fully address the inner skin, and the holes left in the outer skin..they need to be covered also. I made removeable covers to accomplish this. If you are going for noise isolation, you also need a layer of closed cell mat, about 1/16" thickness to completely cover the outer skin. There are HUGE improvements to be had in doing the doors this way....shadowed ONLY by doing the entire cab. 100% guarantee it! What you have done is perhaps equal to a 1db reduction which is not audible. For a full 3db reduction in noise you have to apply as outlined.
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Old Nov 19, 2016 | 02:08 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by mbb
Ive replaced door lock actuator, removed window , put new wires thru flex tube on door to body, etc.
Im pretty sure its not all that hard to stick squares of material against majority of outer skin

dynamat states you must cover a MINIMUM of 1/3 of the area to have a detectable improvement.

Crutchfield did a f150 and documented it with testing. I think they got 2 db reduction doing doors. About 10 db for whole vehicle interior, floor pan, etc. Which is significant but $$$ and hell of a lot of work.

Im thinking not really worth trouble.

New tires do at least as much.
I've done quite a lot in my door too, its not very spacious in there. Also obviously you need to cover a good portion of the door because that's how the product works. lol I don't think it's really worth the time and effort either which is why I haven't wasted my time with it. I don't really think trucks are that noisy to begin with so it's something I'll probably never do.

Last edited by fordguy2100; Nov 19, 2016 at 02:25 PM.
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Old Nov 19, 2016 | 02:16 PM
  #14  
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For those saying it does make that much of a difference, its like driving something fast and thinking its fast.....until you drive something else that is really fast....
It makes a difference.
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Old Nov 19, 2016 | 02:23 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by 2016BoostedGreyGoose
For those saying it does make that much of a difference, its like driving something fast and thinking its fast.....until you drive something else that is really fast....
It makes a difference.
Don't know if that's at me or mbb (the only other people) but I stated I personally don't think trucks make too much noise as is. I don't care to change any sound in my truck. Just my personal preference. It's like driving a viper and being happy with a viper because you like the viper and you don't need/want/care about a Bugatti veyron.

Edit* blupupher wasnt saying it doesn't work, just he didn't add enough on doors to really make a difference
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Old Nov 19, 2016 | 02:28 PM
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lol, no not directly directed at you. In the audio word a quieter cabin trumps all...Effectively doubles amplifier sound quality etc. Most dont know this BUT go drive a 2015 XLT and then a Limited...believe it or not there is quite a difference in cabin quietness because the Limited and Platinum have extra sound deadening materials added. Again, most dont know this, which is why i used the metaphor I did.
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Old Nov 19, 2016 | 02:48 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 2016BoostedGreyGoose
lol, no not directly directed at you. In the audio word a quieter cabin trumps all...Effectively doubles amplifier sound quality etc. Most dont know this BUT go drive a 2015 XLT and then a Limited...believe it or not there is quite a difference in cabin quietness because the Limited and Platinum have extra sound deadening materials added. Again, most dont know this, which is why i used the metaphor I did.
Never thought about it from the audio perspective but now that you say it that makes sense. I like a good sound system but by no means am i an audiophile. Might have to see the differences in those two trucks, maybe that will persuade me enough to do it lol
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Old Nov 19, 2016 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by OhioLariat
Blupupher: Wondering how long ago you did this, and how its holding up. Some people say it will fall from vertical surfaces over time and with heat.

Thanks .

Andy
I did the doors almost 2 years ago? Still fine. I actually stuck a piece under the hood on the intake and it is holding up just fine (I will take a pic later), as is the piece I put on the bottom side of the trunk lid like 3 years ago.

Originally Posted by 2016BoostedGreyGoose
Honestly you didnt notice any difference because you only treated for vibrations, not noise cancellation. You also didnt fully address the inner skin, and the holes left in the outer skin..they need to be covered also. I made removeable covers to accomplish this. If you are going for noise isolation, you also need a layer of closed cell mat, about 1/16" thickness to completely cover the outer skin. There are HUGE improvements to be had in doing the doors this way....shadowed ONLY by doing the entire cab. 100% guarantee it! What you have done is perhaps equal to a 1db reduction which is not audible. For a full 3db reduction in noise you have to apply as outlined.
Yeah, I know I could have done more, I was just trying to get rid of some of the cheap sound of the door closing. It does now have more of a thud to it when closing. I know closed cell is the way to go, but I am not that concerned with it. It was more of a I have a few bucks to waste so lets see if this stuff does anything (never had any "professional" sound deadening, so can't say for sure, but from the samples I have seen, this stuff is close).
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Old Nov 19, 2016 | 04:09 PM
  #19  
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I'll speak my experience with sound dampening. I bought a bulk kit of "fat mat" much cheaper than brand name Dynamat, and has the same MIL rating (MIL is the thickness). I did everything but behind the dash, and the headliner. It made a HUGE difference. I cut out sheet metal and put in threaded inserts in the doors, so they would be removable. The sheet metal was because no matter how much sound dampening on your door, there is still a big hole where sound will get through. The sheet metal was also sound dampened with Fat Mat. Dampening the doors made my mid-bass cleaner, punchier, and louder. Applying the dampener is how well its going to preform, as well as coverage. Applying it with a roller is an absolute necessary, as well as putting a lot of force on the actual sound dampener. I've done quite a few cars and trucks back when I worked in car audio, and trust me, the customers could absolutely tell a difference, every single one of them.
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Old Nov 19, 2016 | 04:57 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by blupupher
I did the doors almost 2 years ago? Still fine. I actually stuck a piece under the hood on the intake and it is holding up just fine (I will take a pic later), as is the piece I put on the bottom side of the trunk lid like 3 years ago.
Well, that's reassuring. I've been debating what to use in my truck. Thanks.

Andy
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