does anyone know how to repair or replace this?
#1
does anyone know how to repair or replace this?
this part of my 2000 eddie bauer expy 4wd 5.4L. has busted, and caused the boot on my upper control arm to tear apart. does anyone know how to repair or replace these since they are welded onto the frame? thanks.
#2
Senior Member
...
Last edited by Jbrew; 03-17-2018 at 12:37 PM.
#3
Senior Member
Maybe cut the rust out and weld some more metal in or find one that isn't rusted away and if possible cut that one off of the frame and weld on the other one. Might be able to cut it off with a 41/2 in. grinder with a cutter wheel. Don't cut the frame no matter what you use.
Last edited by JCR 56; 03-17-2018 at 02:33 PM.
#4
I would cut it off as close as possible without cutting the frame gett a flapper wheel and smooth out the rest get another one but when you cut off the new one I would cut the frame a little since you are going to be using it once off then use the flapper wheel or a nice vice and a saw saw or band saw to cut it flush since you used the flapper wheel the frame is cleaned up. Remember if using a stick welder vertical up is a stronger weld after done welding prime it it after it's cooled down
#5
Maybe cut the rust out and weld some more metal in or find one that isn't rusted away and if possible cut that one off of the frame and weld on the other one. Might be able to cut it off with a 41/2 in. grinder with a cutter wheel. Don't cut the frame no matter what you use.
#6
Senior Member
I wouldn't bother on an older vehicle...unless you just wanted to right it, 4 wheeled often, jumped the truck or drive through monster chuck holes (craters). They are overload stops/blocks...how often does someone overload the front end. Much more important under the bed. The reason those rust,- the little drain hole on the backside bottom plugs. They hold just enough water to keep them wet, rusting them out.
However to fix and most important, -prep the truck before welding...specially on these trucks. Disconnect the PCM at the connector (pass side firewall corner, by the battery). I took out the solid state switches in the PCM and 4 coils welding a grounding lug on the frame (opposite side) and repairing the header on that side...blowing apart #4 coil (found ground). Preventative measures SHOULD be taken lol. It was one of those things that shouldn't of happened, but did lol. So make your disconnections...easy to do so. Knowing how to weld is must, can't fake it lol.
However to fix and most important, -prep the truck before welding...specially on these trucks. Disconnect the PCM at the connector (pass side firewall corner, by the battery). I took out the solid state switches in the PCM and 4 coils welding a grounding lug on the frame (opposite side) and repairing the header on that side...blowing apart #4 coil (found ground). Preventative measures SHOULD be taken lol. It was one of those things that shouldn't of happened, but did lol. So make your disconnections...easy to do so. Knowing how to weld is must, can't fake it lol.
#7
Senior Member
The one in my Expy is rotted out on the drivers side - not as bad as your pics, but it has a hole in it. I will either just leave it or cut it out. It's not worth trying to repair it, IMO. Like Brew said, I don't carry any weight on the front, and I'm not jumping it, so I think it will be OK without it, lol.
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#8
Senior Member
My '99 has same rest of truck perfect. I put heavy duty shocks on front to soften any impact after once bottoming out. Hole on the interstate.
#9
I wouldn't bother on an older vehicle...unless you just wanted to right it, 4 wheeled often, jumped the truck or drive through monster chuck holes (craters). They are overload stops/blocks...how often does someone overload the front end. Much more important under the bed. The reason those rust,- the little drain hole on the backside bottom plugs. They hold just enough water to keep them wet, rusting them out.
However to fix and most important, -prep the truck before welding...specially on these trucks. Disconnect the PCM at the connector (pass side firewall corner, by the battery). I took out the solid state switches in the PCM and 4 coils welding a grounding lug on the frame (opposite side) and repairing the header on that side...blowing apart #4 coil (found ground). Preventative measures SHOULD be taken lol. It was one of those things that shouldn't of happened, but did lol. So make your disconnections...easy to do so. Knowing how to weld is must, can't fake it lol.
However to fix and most important, -prep the truck before welding...specially on these trucks. Disconnect the PCM at the connector (pass side firewall corner, by the battery). I took out the solid state switches in the PCM and 4 coils welding a grounding lug on the frame (opposite side) and repairing the header on that side...blowing apart #4 coil (found ground). Preventative measures SHOULD be taken lol. It was one of those things that shouldn't of happened, but did lol. So make your disconnections...easy to do so. Knowing how to weld is must, can't fake it lol.
The one in my Expy is rotted out on the drivers side - not as bad as your pics, but it has a hole in it. I will either just leave it or cut it out. It's not worth trying to repair it, IMO. Like Brew said, I don't carry any weight on the front, and I'm not jumping it, so I think it will be OK without it, lol.
#10
Senior Member
Then you'll want to follow JBrew's instructions in the second paragraph for patching it up....
I've got to say that for being in New York, that doesn't look too bad for an 18 year old vehicle. I watch South Main Auto's youtube channel, and I see a lot newer vehicles come in that are MUCH MUCH worse.
I've got to say that for being in New York, that doesn't look too bad for an 18 year old vehicle. I watch South Main Auto's youtube channel, and I see a lot newer vehicles come in that are MUCH MUCH worse.
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