Can a D-Ring hitch 1' receiver be used to recover cars or do they make one for, not just outdoor 4wheelers (sit-on style). I've tried looking this up but only come across 4wheeler usage. I'm thinking they may make one for smaller SUV's and cars to fit into the trailer hitch receiver smaller that the standard 2" type used on larger vehicles. I've got a smaller "Curt" trailer hitch I'm installing on our Sub. Forester and want to be able to be pulled out of the ditch if necessary on a strong attachment point. I have the 2" variety for my truck. I'm thinking the smaller style is 1" but could be wrong? maybe 1 1/4 ", you get my meaning. I'd like to know the strength of these smaller D-Ring tow attachments and if they can safely be used on cars like their big brothers; (2" receiver) are on trucks. If any of you no, please leave a few links. Don't want to get stuck w/o the ability to be recovered this winter and possibly pull someone else out with it to if they are rated strong enough?

 

I wouldnt. I've broken the smaller D-Rings. I dont use anything other than 5 ton d-rings. I had a 2 ton d-ring snap trying to pull a Camry out of a ditch.

 

I'm talking about the whole receiver attachment that slides into the receiver and locks in with a pin and cotter key. Do they make one for the smaller tailer hitches on cars that are smaller than the 2" square style.

The only other thing I guess you could do is thread your recovery strap around the trailer hitch itself and secure that with a standard size D-Ring. That's if a car has a hitch i the first place which many do not these days. Tow truck drivers slip straps through the wheels if they have alloys, not stamped metal. Cars these days have no beef!

 

Those are 1 1/4 inch receivers. You can buy an adapter to go from 1 1/4 to 2 inch such as this. You can then use any 2 inch accessories, but note that any weight limits apply to the weakest point in the setup. Your 1 1/4 inch receiver is class 1 or 2, and may not be strong enough to support the dead weight of your vehicle, especially if not a straight pull. Should have rating stamped on it, or on a sticker.

Class I Trailer Hitch Receivers:
Towing capacities up to 2,000 lbs GTW (Gross Trailer Weight) and 200 lbs TW (Tongue Weight)
1-1/4" x 1-1/4" receiver hitch opening.
Works with only Class I accessories, such as bike racks, cargo carriers, ball mounts and tube covers
1-1/4" x 1-1/4" Class II accessories will not work with Class I hitches
Requires a drawbar or ball mount to tow a trailer; may be included or sold separately
Uses a 1/2" pin to secure ball mount into place
Manufacturer-recommended drawbar or ball mount should be used for each specific hitch
Will work with hitch ***** with 3/4" diameter shank
Available in square and round tube designs

Class II Receiver Hitch
Class II Trailer Hitch Receivers:
Designed for light-duty towing
Are rated up to 3,500 lbs GTW and 350 lbs TW
1-1/4" x 1-1/4" receiver hitch opening
Will work with Class I and Class II accessories, such as bike racks, cargo carriers, and tube covers
Requires a Manufacturer-recommended, hitch specific drawbar or ball mount to tow a trailer
A 1/2" pin must be used to secure the ball mount in place.
Drawbars may be included with hitch or sold separately
Available in square and round tube designs.
Will work with hitch ***** with 3/4" diameter shank

Class III Square Receiver Hitch
Class III Trailer Hitch Receivers:
Designed for trucks, vans and sport utility vehicles
2" x 2" receiver hitch opening
Rated up to 6,000 lbs GTW with 600 lbs TW
Allows for more gear to be carried or towed
Works with all Class III accessories, such as bike racks, cargo carriers, and tube covers
Class I and Class II (1-1/4") hitch accessories can also be used with an adapter
Ball mounts are sold separately.
Will work with hitch ***** with 1" diameter shank
NOTE: Most manufacturers call any hitch with a 2" x 2" opening a Class III hitch
It is not uncommon to see a 2" hitch rated at 3,500 lbs GTW called a Class III hitch
Available in square and round tube designs.

Class III Round Receiver Hitch
Class IV Trailer Hitch Receivers:
Designed for trucks, vans and sport utility vehicles
2" x 2" receiver hitch opening
Rated up to 12,000 lbs GTW and 1,000 TW
Allows for even more gear to be carried or towed
Works with all Class III and IV accessories
Class I and Class II (1-1/4") hitch accessories can also be used with an adapter
Ball mounts are sold separately.
Will work with hitch ***** with 1" diameter shank
Class IV hitch ***** require a 1-1/4" diameter shank

Class V Tow Beast Receiver Hitch
Class V Trailer Hitch Receivers:
Designed for heavy-duty trucks or vans to tow larger trailers
2-1/2" x 2-1/2" receiver hitch opening
Specially designed to handle heavy duty towing
With a weight distribution system you can handle up to 18,000 lbs with 1,800 lbs of tongue weight
Can use any class III or IV accessory with use of a reducer sleeve
Class V Ball mounts are sold separately.
Will work with hitch ***** with 1-1/4" shank

 

Thanks, for that info. After reading the Curt product info it appears to be a class II 3500 LB. rating and 350 LB. tung weight. Here is what I had in mind: http://www.4wheelparts.com/Winches-W...&t_pn=WAR62041

It seems no-one has ever asked this question. Although these are made for ATV's, I wonder if it would work on a car/SUV application or if someone makes one specifically for 1 1/4" receivers. I'll check and see what the factory curb weight is for a 2005 Sub. Forester X AWD. How else could this thing be pulled out of a ditch or be used to pull a lightly stuck similar vehicle out?

I just checked, it weighs 3135 LBS. factory curb weight.

 

I don't see why it wouldn't work on a passenger vehicle but as others have said you will have to take into account the hitch rating. You'll also have to guesstimate the extra "load" of being stuck due to snow, mud, recovery angle, etc.

I have no experience recovering vehicles so I've been reading up on how to pull out unibody cars as well. There's surprisingly little info out there and much of it is vehicle specific.
What I've learned so far is that the hitch is probably the best spot to connect to if so equipped. Some have used the OEM tow hooks that screw into the bumper cutout but I would use that in ideal conditions only (flat, straight pull with little resistance). Some chassis will have little tow attachments bolted on such as eyelets or slits cut into the underbody that require special shaped hooks or "keys" (an additional purchase). In other cases I have read that sub-frames or wheels are used as attachment points.

There doesn't seem to be a simple answer that applies to all cars unfortunately. So if you encounter a stuck person I would make them responsible for the hook up at their end by either having them do it themselves or authorizing your approach after being made aware of the risks. Sometimes a good deed can end up badly.

I'm subbing to hear what others with more experience have to say.

 

Put the hitch on the car. Put a pin in through the pin hole without a receiver. If stuck, remove pin and put your recovery strap inside and put the pin back in. Drill out the hole and use a larger pin if you're worried about it breaking.

The pin holds the strap the way a d ring would. Problem solved.
Long as you aren't getting a 10 foot run at it with a recovery strap it'll be fine. Most recoveries I do only require letting my foot of the brake to give them enough momentum to get out themselves. Be smart.

Edit: Maybe it won't fit a 1.25" opening. That's a small strap.

 

Ya, I just ordered a 30 ft. 3" recovery strap. I've got 2 different sizes that I keep in my truck for such occasions and two 2" D-ring receiver shackles and a 3/8 ths high test chain and assorted extra D-rings. Pulled many a grateful driver out.

Reason I brought this up, was about a month ago we were coming out of the woods just after dusk and some guy in a mid-sized car backed off the hwy into what he thought was a small apron and missed sending his car deep into the water and mud filled ditch. I stopped while driving our Subaru Forester and had no way to pull him out. So I thought I'd get some gear in the Subaru to for such future occasions. A jeep did happen by and aided in the extraction. I helped with the use of my mag light in hooking them up and gave directions to pull the car out. His left rear wheel was sticking up in the air about 2 ft. off the ground until we got him back on solid gravel. It just happened to be his B-day to, so he was thankful we all came along.

Always start with small tugs and slowly increase as needed until your both in the clear.

Here's what your talking about:

 

The sorts of extractions you're going to do with a Subaru Forester are the sort you can do with any $20 tow strap with hooks from the parts store. You don't have enough vehicle there to do more than that, no matter what kinda hitch you put on it. If you want to rescue folks you'd do better to pack a sturdy comealong or hand winch with a line extension and a tree strap.

 

Yes, I realize it would be for soft extractions only. They're just not built for anything more robust.

Any good seasoned tow truck driver could answer these questions.