TLB4

Have you made any changes to the system or had any problems before this. Cruise doesn't usually just break. There is usually a reason for it.
And did you have the dynamic cable pull after the flash? And there is no one flash after the last button flash. There is only the last flash, or the last flash then 2 more.

RLSebring

Cruise hasn't worked in a while but my daughter had the truck for the past year and I haven't looked into it till now. No changes to the system.

I just went and did the self test, again. There is a flash after each button is pushed with the last button hesitating a little as the instructions say. Then one flash.

When I first ran the self test I was getting 2 flashes to indicate the BPP was bad. I bought a new BPP, which did correct the problem. I then got the one flash, then the 2 flash again pretty consistent. Last night I was getting the one flash.

Today went through the test you posted and it failed the ohm test, which I noted on my sheet the other night that it passed ( this was when I was back to 2 flashes on the self test).

I've ran the self test several times today with the 1 flash result after the last button flash. I have not had the pull down test at all during any of these self test.

TLB4

I really don't know what is wrong then. Only other guess is you are instinctively putting your foot on the brake when you're running the test. Foot has to be off.
The only things left is either the circuit is defective, or the Clutch Pedal Position switch or jumper (if equipped) is broken.

RLSebring

Hey I appreciate your input. Just went and did the test again making sure foot was not on the brake. Same result. Last button flash took a fraction of a second long whereas the other button flashes were immediate. One flash after that.

I hate it when I have the means, tools, help to do something right and be plagued by something like this.

RLSebring

btw no clutch or harness recall.

fastmerc

Greetings!
Just found this website doing a search on my cruise control failure in my 2001 SCrew. Not sure why I never saw this site before....I think I was on the "other" site....but not so much help is evident there!!

First, thanks to TLB4 for taking the time to type out stuff from the Ford diag/repair books! When someone does this, guys should pay attention and take the time to check it out.... It WILL save you money in these times of hard cash flow......and shotgunning parts anymore can get expensive fast!!!!

Ford designed their books to help their service techs get the job done quickly and at reduced costs. The books of today are MUCH better than the books that came out in the late 70's, and 80's to 90's...... Only problem is that they are big, and sometimes expensive....but that's what the interweb is good for.....good deals when you find 'em!

Everyone should have a shop manual, electrical diagrams, and a Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis manual! This last one is the mother of all shop manuals with how to diagnose engine, abs, trans, and more, error codes. I suspect that is where he dug out these Cruise control procedures.

I have to admit that I am just starting on my cruise problem and haven't yet dug my books out. However, I did try the self test and can only get one blink of the ON button....and nothing else.

My symptoms were "blinking cruise lamp" while trying to activate Cruise. If I could get it to lock on, a simple jiggle of the wheel would turn it off!

I replaced my steering wheel last week, and cleaned up the switch contacts (Sometimes this goes a long way with Ford switches, but not this time!) but now I get no action at all.

I wanted to remove the ribbon and bench test it, but couldn't get the column end disconnected, and I didn't want to force it. Was hoping that this was not the prob....

SO, my guess is that the switches are OK (but will bench these next), and the ribbon failed while I was messing with it...... Will check out the books and see how much I can do while upside down under the column!!!

Then hit the wrecking yards on Friday for 50% off sale.....see if I can find a nice Expedition with low miles.....that still has the steering wheel on it....!!!!

Cheers, and thanks again to TLB4 for contributing to a great website and a pesky problem area!

Steve

fastmerc

First, THANKS for all the help by previous posters!

What I found.......

1) bad brake pressure switch on MC! Ohm meter says no continuity on this switch when at rest, when it should be 0 ohms. Connector was wet....indicating that it is leaking internally...... Jumpered out the connector for the balance of my testing.... Off to Ford next week....

2) Using ohm- meter was able to determine that my ribbon cable is fine. Also that my switches are all OK, had one reading ON or OFF was either supposed to be 1000ohms or zero, but both ON and OFF were 0 ohms.

After "testing" a couple of ribbon switches and failing the self tests still....was pushing/pulling on wires and things started responding... huh?

Narrowed it down to the brown 6 wire connector on the underside of the column RH side.... I used a very tiny screw driver and slightly compressed the female connectors. They have a split in them to allow for expansion and I suspected that one may be intermittent. This seemed to do the trick!

Subsequent testing insured that my "extra" ribbons were fine, and worked, as well as my original! Now the tests did all the proper CRUISE blinking and the test of the servo etc at the end!

Put it all back together.....tested again...still works!

Now to go drive it tomorrow.......see if it really works!!! ...and get a new pressure switch.

Cheers!!!
Steve

RLSebring

Well dicked around with this some more today. Would really like to get this going. I am coming around to the idea that there is a bad wire/circuit.

The dealer installed the new recall harness and I have that jumpered. I have ran the self test several times and was getting 2 flashed after the last button flash. I bought and installed another brake switch. No cruise and now only one flash after the last flash on the self test. BPP seems to change something in the grand scheme of things but for the life of me I don't know what.

jmplants

Hey guys clock spring just replaced one in my 1997 Ford F 150 now I got a stupid code 44 but now my horn works ever seen a fat guy squeeze in between house and the truck door to take the dash apart and put the damn thing lol

65comet

What does anyone else recommend as a replacement brand for the cruise control pressure release switch? Airtex, BWD, Standard Motor, Duralast, Motorcraft or some other brand.
I'm leery of Motorcraft since they didn't redesign the switch after the recall for fires. They just came up with a jumper wire with an inline low amp fuse to blow when the switch went bad. The 1998 F150 I just got has that recall done on it. The switch has a small puddle of brake fluid inside the ridge for the nut and the meter tested it as bad, so I'm replacing it. I imagine the inline fuse could also be blown. All the other fuses are good.
So, what do you all recommend as a brand?