Couple leaf spring questions
So I need new leaf springs (along with CV joints and idler / pitman arm). My questions are:
1. what is the worst that can happen if I do not replace them for another 7 months?
They have been this way I believe since the day I bought it, the main leafs are on the rebound leaf, with about an inch of clearance in the front, the back is fully on it with no space.
2. When looking at the brand new, they have the option to buy the following:
New U-bolts (I will not need as I got new longer ones with the lift kit)
Eye bolts
Rear shackle
Rear hanger
Front hanger
Do I need all that, or can I get away with just buying the leaf springs?
3. When replacing the springs, where would you recommend I put the jack, and jack stands at?
1. what is the worst that can happen if I do not replace them for another 7 months?
They have been this way I believe since the day I bought it, the main leafs are on the rebound leaf, with about an inch of clearance in the front, the back is fully on it with no space.
2. When looking at the brand new, they have the option to buy the following:
New U-bolts (I will not need as I got new longer ones with the lift kit)
Eye bolts
Rear shackle
Rear hanger
Front hanger
Do I need all that, or can I get away with just buying the leaf springs?
3. When replacing the springs, where would you recommend I put the jack, and jack stands at?
what are you concerned about with not replacing? the pitman, idler, cv's, or leafs? and with the new leafs, its tough to say about the kit. if i had the money to replace it all i would. however, if you only have the money to do leafs, then do that as long as your other parts arent bad. as far as jack and stand locations, i would jack it up by the differencial, put your jack stands directly on the axle on on both side next to shock mounts, then remove the jack and put it up to your tow hitch (hopefully you have one) but dont jack it up just jack the jack up to the hitch until it touches it with a firm contact; this is only to keep the bed and stuff compressing on the shocks and you can also jack the body up and let it down from there according to how you need to remove the springs safely and instal them safely. remember they are under pressure. good luck
what are you concerned about with not replacing? the pitman, idler, cv's, or leafs? and with the new leafs, its tough to say about the kit. if i had the money to replace it all i would. however, if you only have the money to do leafs, then do that as long as your other parts arent bad. as far as jack and stand locations, i would jack it up by the differencial, put your jack stands directly on the axle on on both side next to shock mounts, then remove the jack and put it up to your tow hitch (hopefully you have one) but dont jack it up just jack the jack up to the hitch until it touches it with a firm contact; this is only to keep the bed and stuff compressing on the shocks and you can also jack the body up and let it down from there according to how you need to remove the springs safely and instal them safely. remember they are under pressure. good luck 

I'm getting the CV's done here pretty soon, leas are my next project (just because I thought they where cheap). How do I tell if the other parts are bad (shackles, hangers, etc)? When I put the jack on the hitch receiver, where do I put the jack stands? Don't I have to lower the axle to take out the springs?
Yeah they should be fine if they aren't too badly rusted or cracked. For the brackets just make sure they aren't cracked or badly rusted as well. Otherwise there's no reason to replace them. That is unless you really want to.
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There are a bunch of threads about this, and after reading several, my understanding is that the consensus is this: The only reason Ford says not to jack the differential is because it is a liability to them if the truck rolls backwards. Just use choks, and make sure you are on flat ground. You can always jack one side up at a time if you are are paranoid.





